Q:

How to Remove Air Tube?

My Vulcan .22 has a nice ping after firing and I am interested in finding out if it is caused by the spacer between firing valve and regulator. Ernest mentioned this as one of his fixes.

Which brings me to the subject, albeit elementary as it may seem to experienced air gunners.
How does one remove the air tube on the Vulcan. Simply de-air and unscrew?

Airgun Technology

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I was wondering how it could be loose myself, but Ernest stated it is the source of the ping on a gun he was fixing up.

But you’re right.
How can it be loose with over a 1,000 lbs force pushing the regulator against it?

Something doesn’t add up.

I went through this process few days ago, first time it is difficult, second 3minutes. You will be fine don’t worry, this gun is very easy to work on.

(had not have a sheared off head) so I think superman is gone from the production line

how can be the spacer lose? I thought the immense pressure forces the regulator towards the breech. pushing the spacer.
mine gun is a .177 there is no spacer at all.
but I have seen sniperqty videos on the tube when he uses some plastic or aluminium tube to ram the reg down the tube to the very bottom i.e. against the spacer.
I think he did it to make sure the reg in in the right place between the vent holes.

normally you install the reg from the other end so first reg in and the spacer I guess, then you don’t want to push it too deep, the cylinder will be screwed in so that will push both into the right place anyway. :butkick:

Wasn’t planning on depinging the high pressure side, since I read that a regulated gun shouldn’t need a de-pinger in the air cylinder.
It’s the possibility of the spacer being loose between the valve assembly and regulator that I’m wanting to eliminate.

Unfortunately, that IS on the tough end to access.

EDIT: Oh never mind, I think you meant to leave the valve assembly in place on the air tube, not in place in the breach block.

correct the cylinder has got two end bits, the quick fill/gauge end, and the other where the firing valve is.
avoid that end. just like on the picture, do not mess with that end. leave it connected do not touch any screws on the bottom of the breach block

if you go in only to stick in some tygon or pvc tubing spiral to the other i.e. high unregulated side of the reg, you can do from the pressure gauge side, much easier. Just dump the air and remove the shroud as it is easier to unscrew the quick fill/gauge assy.
do not tighten too much when put back together.

quote :

you leave the valve assembly in place you unscrew the gauge and the cylinder body only. take a note where the 2 vent holes are on the side of the cylinder.

Just to clarify, the valve assembly stays in the breach block and unscrew the cylinder body from the valve assembly.

This pict from the the other thread shows everything taken out, but I think you mean the valve assembly at the right end of this pict shouldn’t be removed along with the cylinder body.

Does the valve assembly have something locking it into the breach block?

EDIT so this shows up earlier in thread.
: Oh never mind, I think you meant to leave the valve assembly in place on the air tube, not in place in the breach block.

Thanks, Kris.

Very detailed and really appreciate the bugaboo warnings. I think I will wait a while before attempting this level of endeavor, but will definitely get the O-ring as you suggested before trying this.

The ping is annoying but not horrible.

dump all the air first, I recommend getting a 002-003 size o ring as a precaution, since mine developed a leak right after the first time I used the vent grubscrew. the o ring will go under the ball bearing which is in under the grubscrew. holds air perfectly now. other people replace the hammer spring with some jig this allows to vent throught the valve seat…

you have to remove the plate where letters “Vulcan” is, under that plate 4 larger screws remove these fully from the clamps, so you don’t scratch your cylinder.
hopefully not too late.

you leave the valve assembly in place you unscrew the gauge and the cylinder body only. take a note where the 2 vent holes are on the side of the cylinder.

I would not go in without spare o rings. also make sure you wear gloves (keeps clean and gives better grip) and got divers silicone

the reassembly is obvious but I was told to fill the cylinder first to 180bar before tightening the 4 bolts. be very carefull with compressed air.

wait… I don’t see any threads at the back of the air tube in this thread.

http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=33271

So, now I’m wondering if unscrewing the air tube actually is the way to get it loose.
Is it held in place by the bands going around its middle?

If I couldn’t manage removing the stock, I really would have no business removing the air tube. 😀

Thanks,
Guy

Hmmnnn. Thinking about this more. Maybe an easier fix is to unscrew the front and push the regulator back snug against the spacer.

Yep, Although you must remove stock

Viewing 12 replies - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)

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