improving the standard Stealth moderator
Hi guys, recently i bought a used Stealth (UK) and i am very pleased with it although I did find it alarmingly loud compared with my almost silent Airarms s400, so, the moderator had to come apart for improvements.
Firstly I had to cut off the muzzle end of the mederator to get inside and was suprised to find no baffles or wadding of any kind, just an empty tube! no wonder its loud…………
1. I cut some 40mm (O.D) plastic pipe (Homebase, B and Q) to half the length of the inside of the moderator.
2. Using Araldite epoxy I glued a 40mm dia washer to one end of the plastic pipe. Once set, cut some green pan scourer to line the inside of the pipe, holding it inplace with 2 “compression” rings made from the same 40mm pipe ( just cut 2 rings from the pipe, about 5mm wide and cut out a section from this ring, say 10mm), then line the pipe with the wadding and carefully position the compression rings to hold the wadding in place, one at either end.
3. Wrap this pipe once with insulation tape and i now found this to be a very snug fit into the actual aluminium moderator body. Push it into place with the washer end in the middle of the moderator.
4. Cut another piece of the 40mm pipe to half the length of the remaining space in the moderator body, again glue a 40mm washer to one end and wrap once in insulation tape.
5. Using an old fashioned hair curler aprox 12mm dia. (£1.49 for 8 from Superdrug) cut it to the internal length of this second tube, and, wrap around it some more of the green pan scourer cut to the appropriate size until it will snugly slide down the second plastic tube with the centre of the hair curler inline with the centre of the moderator.
6. Slide this second assembly down inside the aluminium tube of the moderator until it rests against the washer of the first tube.
7.For the last chamber, no plastic pipe is needed, just use another hair curler (cut to length) and again wrap around it some of the green pan scourer until it is a snug fit in the aluminium tube of the moderator. Experimentation is needed here to get the length of this piece correct as u then need to push fit the the front end of the moderator back on so it just touches and holds inplace the front end of the curler assembly.
Hey presto……..now half the noise of the standard moderator for about £8 and an hours tinkering…………..it may get even quieter if i glue some of the green pan scourer onto the face of each washer……….I shall report back when i do this
Happy Tinkering
TEAM UNIVERSE
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Viewing 7 replies - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
guess it’s kind of like venting the AF frame?
thats really interesting and helpful Hoot, i shall give your suggestion a try 😀
My custom 410 shroud got a bit quieter when I added a couple holes, but I probably made them too large. Ill have to raid the dentist drill cabinet for some diamond bits, then I can fill in and re-drill mine . Those little tiny bits just don’t make it through a tube very easy (carbon fiber).
The S510 has those same baffled holes. The air has to get around some obstacles to make it to those holes, or the inside OEM AA holes are a LOT smaller than the outside holes. Not much air comes out of there.
Recall that I added a moderator at the end of the shroud. It was on the moderator that I drilled the two extra holes. So my shroud remains functional, but the little moderator, with 1/32″ holes, does the final trick.
Hoot
Thanks… 😉
Pics will be welcome 😉
My 410 has vent holes just behind where the shroud tube screws into the receiver. Are you saying the 510 does not have those holes?
My custom 410 shroud got a bit quieter when I added a couple holes, but I probably made them too large. Ill have to raid the dentist drill cabinet for some diamond bits, then I can fill in and re-drill mine . Those little tiny bits just don’t make it through a tube very easy (carbon fiber).
Note that the Edgun has several, tiny, approx. 1/32th inch holes drilled around the rear base of his shrouds.
I recently received an AA S510, and at high power the shroud just doesn’t get the job done. It is definitely NOT neighbor friendly where I live. I put on a tiny 4″ long SM at the muzzle’s end, and it did help a bit.
Then I remembered Ed’s shrouds all have those tiny “vent” holes at the rear of his shrouds. So, I drilled two (2) such holes in the rear of my little add-on SM, and test fired at high power.
I was amazed at the difference it made. Outside of hammer slap, and pellet impact, there was no discernible muzzle blast. Previously, even with the little add on SM, there was still a noticeable “POP” upon discharge.
Note that I drilled only two such vent holes. It did the job, and I stopped right there because I don’t have a spare SM if I screwed it up.
May I recommend you try and artificially increase the air volume handling capability of your hand crafted SM by drilling two of these tiny vents at the rear of your SM? You personally may need more, or two may do the job. “More” is not necessarily better in this case!
The concept is quite simple. The little vents allow a quiet, controlled exit of a portion of the over-pressure air, out the rear of the SM. Your baffles and shroud length take care of the remaining, lower pressured air. You may need four holes, or eight. Just depends. But don’t try any hole diameter larger than 1/32nd inch. A larger vent hole produces a discharge noise.
Best of luck…
Hoot 😯
Viewing 7 replies - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
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Ah I see Hoot.
I also made a different barrel bushing for my shroud, and a LOT more air comes back into the tube.
With the stock bushing, most of the air is blocked by that stupid O-ring they use on it.
I think Ill just wrap the barrel in Scotch-bright back there, and see if that works.