Installing a TTTA, Question…
I got the valve body out of the tank. I can’t believe how tight that thing was!
OK, now the spring retainer in the back of the valve is a brass fitting with a 1/2″
hex head. This sticks out .430 from the valve body. This prevents the valve
from screwing in all the way. It stops with a space of .140 to go. The spring retainer is not threaded all the way in. There is a space of .240 that the spring holder could be screwed in.
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You have to pull the trigger then the breech will slide past the striker release. Just start pushing the barrel in with everything on it until there is some pressure against the breech then pull the trigger and it will shoot right it.
All Done!
I found a spring that just fit inside the counter bore. I had to cut it down, but it is working smoothly. It was fun getting into the trigger group for the first time. The breach and hammer slid down and would not go back so I removed them out the back and after clocking the threaded ring for the tank adapter I pulled the barrel and power adjuster and spring. (again for the first time) I got it all together again and was pleasantly surprised it worked! I took a few shots and it appears to have kept the same POI. Testing will follow this weekend.
So, would the stock Airforce spring would normally fit in the counter bore of the spring retainer? I take it that the brass hex head retainer is a correct part? In the drawings it looks like the spring retainer sets flush with the valve body end. I could machine off the counter bore end of the spring retainer so that I could use the spring I have. Another question I have, How freely should the valve stem move? This one is not moving easily. I have to catch the bottom of the top hat with my fingernail to pull it out. I think I should remove the top hat and pull the valve stem and clean everything good.
Tony built this rifle for me. (.25 calliber) It is a Condor frame but if I remember it has a Talon valve. The idea was to have a high shot count. Now I have a carbon fiber tank, so it is easy to refill. I would like to be able to shoot heavy pellets in the 900 + FPS range. I may be needing a new valve and heavier hammer.
That, and if screwed in all the way, the valve may not open. I would shorten the retainer from the non hex end. Or better yet, give Tony a call for futher instructions. 😉
Mike
As long as the spring can shut the valve, doesn’t need to be strong, just enough to close the valve when you push the tophat down and let it go again. The smaller dia’ may restrict airflow a little and drop the power a bit.
OK I have removed the spring retainer. It had thread locker on it to hold it in place because it was not screwed in all the way. The spring diameter is larger than the counter bore in the spring retainer, so I suppose this is why it was not screwed in to the shoulder. Has anyone see this before? I am thinking I have a non stock spring. How important is the spring tension? Can I just pick up a smaller diameter one from the hardware store?
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Thanks Dyotat, I had read that somewhere on the forum. I have never needed to go into this gun before and am glad for the experience. I realize this is all old hat for the regulars here and I am pleased that you and others take the time to comment and help others who are just trying to figure all of this out.