Q:

Is it common to get large POI change after removing my barre

OK, so reading in another thread about moving the barrel forward .5 mm to remove POI wandering, I thought I’d give it a try to see the effect. It did nothing for me in fact it didn’t shoot as well as before. So, I removed the barrel and put it all back together as usual. After reinstalling everything my POI is 2in low and 1in left.
My question is what could cause such a dramatic change in POI and is this normal to shift that much after just removing the barrel? It’s a cricket .25 by the way.
Thanks

Kalibrgun

All Replies

Viewing 13 replies - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)

quote eelect:

My poi pretty much stays the same after cleaning it. I think the shroud is more to blame for the poi changes.
I believe the weakest link with the cricket is the shroud. I have had shroud issues with both my crickets.
Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk

When I do get a flier, I often think and blame the shroud.

~ GKU

My poi pretty much stays the same after cleaning it. I think the shroud is more to blame for the poi changes.
I believe the weakest link with the cricket is the shroud. I have had shroud issues with both my crickets.
Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk

quote iride:

Anytime I mess with my OEM or after market shroud or clean my barrel my POI is off, More so in the 25 then the 22 cricket,
If you fart in the same room as your marauder the POI is off, but that’s a different story,,,,
Mike

:rofl: how true Mike!

Anytime I mess with my OEM or after market shroud or clean my barrel my POI is off, More so in the 25 then the 22 cricket,
If you fart in the same room as your marauder the POI is off, but that’s a different story,,,,
Mike

quote Zonk:

Nice, looks like you made it to fit several scopes of different lengths. Good idea!

Thanks Zonk, Yes it’s to accommodate scope sizes and can be adjusted to be used with the rings mounted on the scope also.

Nice and simple centering jig eelect !

Mounting a laser on the front base of the jig securely makes for a faster reset to center.

Instruction to use with a laser:

Position scope onto jig.
Turn on the laser and view it on a wall at least 10+ yards away and focus scope.
Rotate scope 360 degrees and note the difference in position of the radical and laser dot on wall.
Calibrate laser to point in the center of the radicals rotation as best you can.
Adjust turrets to center onto the red dot rotate scope again.
If needed recalibrate laser again to point in the center of the radicals rotation.
Fine tune turrets to center radical to the red dot.
Finish when turning the scope the radical is center onto the red dot.

~ GKU

Nice, looks like you made it to fit several scopes of different lengths. Good idea!

Hey Zonk I’ve seen your grouping it’s dead on. 😯
If you used 20 in-lb leave it, that would be the max for me.

quote KGB1024:

I guess I’ll have to start over with mounting my scope and the burris sig zee rings to get it as close to optically centered as I can cause I don’t like it to be too far off centered.

Nice rigs the Burris Sig Zee rings and smart using Optical centering scope and align scope to compensate for Lateral Misalignments of.
I never needed to use those rings yet though I usually had the luck of making use of the fact that most common rings are off by some degree. I found the slight errors in the gun and rings by moving, swapping and rotate the rings around till the best alignment was found and shim the rear rings to zero elevation if needed. So far I’ve been lucky with this method with a Optical centered scope I zeroed within 8 clicks or so.

More on scope mounting if someone’s interested http://www.fekete-moro.hu/bfta-setup-manual/index-en.php#352

An old pic of my Optical centering jig, I mounted a lazar to the jig to aid in having something to center to when rotating the scope. I’ve tried the mirror method with poorer results.

~ GKU

I seem to remember that I torqued mine at 20 in-lb. Some say that was to much and others say they used more torque. All I know is that they were VERY tight also. I did take each one out before torqueing and applied loctight to threads. Mine shoots very well.

If there were on there tight and now it’s on there looser than before, AT at different fill pressure you answered your own question. I would think that any adjustment to the 4 frame hex screws that the POI will change somewhat.

From the factory my 22 cal Cricket had one screw that was very very hard to remove compared to the other 3. After re-torqueing POI shifting improved dramatically from about and inch to null.

I posted the torque values (about 10-12 in-Lb.) at a 180 bar fill in directions how to do it, in forward .5mm barrel pull post somewhere. I did this to both of my Crickets and for what ever reason(s) it helped my Compact more so that my Standard. But, it did not give me any ill effects just positive ones other than more or less POI changes like you experienced. All guns will with no doubt differ in results whether small, large or none.

~ GKU

By the way, what is the torque specs for the bolts, cause when I was removing them they were on there TIGHT!

I have tried re torquing several times, in different sequences and it seems that my POI stays relatively close to where it is now. I guess maybe from the factory they assembled it without air in the cylinder and now since there is air in there maybe the poi is different. I guess I’ll have to start over with mounting my scope and the burris sig zee rings to get it as close to optically centered as I can cause I don’t like it to be too far off centered.

I would say anytime you remove a barrel it’s going to shift. You can’t put it back exactly as it was before. When reinstalling did you tighten the screws in the proper sequence, did you over tighten the screws that secure the barrel? There’s a lot that can affect the accuracy after removing a barrel.

Viewing 13 replies - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)

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