Q:

Leaking very fast from air cylinder, Gen4 Vulcan.25

Hi all, this is my first post, although I have been lurking long time on this board. I am new to Vulcan but have been shooting other airguns like RWS springer and HW100 .22 PCP.

Bought a Vulcan .25 from Tony. It’s my first .25, went through about 2-3tins of JSBs, it has been great, until it start dumping air through a vent hole.

Couple weeks ago one afternoon after some plinking I was filling the gun, when the fill pressure reaches 200bars or higher, the air start to leak out quickly through a tiny vent hole about two inches from breech. There are two holes, the air is coming out from the one slightly further away from breech.The leak was so fast that I could see some grease/silicon was blasted out by the air. It was a hot day, perhaps the grease was thinner and start to flow a bit.
Filled to 200bars I can still shoot it, It is holding max 200 Bars overnight without problem, but if I fill it any more than that, air will leak out from the vent hole.

I wonder if any one else having same issues, I did see someone posting a similar problem but not exactly the same, his was leaking down to zero.

After searching the forum and watching some youtube vids, I ordered some O’ring,s will try to investigate inside of the gun. I am guessing mine is leaking around the outside of reg, since my leaks start at 200Bar, way pass the aprox~150bar of the reg setting.

Airgun Technology

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Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 18 total)

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I am happy to have a Vulcan, no regret at all.
During the research of buying a .25pcp, forum reviews and Evgeny’s product and service convinced me to get a Vulcan.
Unlike the powder burners, we are a small community here in US with limited resource, I appreciate all the help forum members had given, and hope my input here will help others as well to decide their toy acquisition.

JY , I have Donnys’ 7 5/8″ LDC on my .25 Vulcan and it is really quiet . Last week I killed a tree rat in my
backyard and the birds sitting in the tree never spooked , they just looked down as if nothing happened .
The tree is 15 yards away from the spot which I shoot from .

FROM : THE BIRDMAN

I have to say Evgeny has always come through for me when I had my problem. He cares about his customers and wants to keep us happy.

@birdman
I couldn’t agree more! This case is a testament.

The new air tank is now in the gun and I put about 100 pellets through it. Everything worked well and life is good. Now only if I could get my V.25 quieter :winkn: …..

During the past week while I was waiting for the air tank replacement, I have been shooting my very quiet .22 HW100 FSB with Weihrauch moderator, and my ears got spoiled. I forgot how loud the V.25 was until I shot it again today, even with Tony’s carbon fiber LDC on it. Well, to be fair, I have not compared its noise to any other .25 PCP side by side, so maybe I shouldn’t complain.

Has anyone compared Donny’s LDC to Tony’s? Wondering which one is quieter…. it should be another topic.

JY , Evgeny takes great pride in is gun and with least hassle on his part he is more than willing to correct any problems that we
the buyers of his gun may have to ensure that not only do we trust him , we also trust his product . :8: :8: :8:

FROM : THE BIRDMAN

I sent back the air tank to Airgun Technology on June 5th, and informed Mr. Evgeny via email.
Today the June 12th, I just received a brand new air tank from Airgun Technology via Fedex. I am almost certain he sent out the replacement part same day receiving my email.
Through this exercise I have learnt a lot about my Vulcan.25, and the people who stand behind it. Tony and Evgeny both jumped on the issue as soon as they could to investigate the issue and replace the component. Thank you!

That is Great News from the Dealer Tony to the Factory Evgeny …… good as Gold !

Keep us posted Sir.

~ Greg

I got a response from Pigrov Evgeny, he asked me to send out the air tank assembly to factory, upon receiving it, he will send me a replacement.
Let’s hope the shipping cost is not high…

Searching up and down on internet and I have yet to find another example like this, must be an isolated event.
Talked to Tony, he is several steps ahead of me, already sent out inquiries to Airgun Technology before I reached him. I was advised to wait for a response. Thanks Tony!

@GKU and @Papa Schultz,
My Woodpecker’s woodworking square might be too rough to measure in such precision. I will find a machinist square to check the spacer next time I open it, but i think it will be challenging to see the offset with naked eye.
However if the spacer was the culprit, it would loose the pressure on the first fill, instead of waiting for the pressure drop and only start to leak during re-fill…. :whistle:

How is the other end/surface check for any debris that the spacer sitting on inside of the valve end cap ?
I wouldn’t mess with the AT, figure out what or how to stop the reg from tilting.
Believe this is the problem that’s cause of the leak, not the inside finish is to blame just yet.

Use a good square to check the spacer for true concentric 90 degrees ……….

Also agree with Papa Schultz,
Being a new gun you might what to ask Tony for a entire complete replacement AT assembly to cure the headaches and complications that you don’t deserve Sir.

I’m thinking in the long run …….. the future, this problem with or more could rearise then with no warranty.

~ Greg

Two thoughts on what I just read:
1st is maybe trying to use o-rings with a higher rubber core diameter (e.g. use 20×2 instead of 20×1.5 -only as example to help understand, probably not the right dimensions in the example, just to show which of the two values to increase). This might help keep the reg centered. This in addition to what Greg said: check the spacer for being cut true.

2nd, and much more important: I personally wouldn’t mess with the air tube AT ALL. If your gun is under wartanty, I’d have at least the air tube exchanged, better air tube, reg and spacer. Way too high a pressure inside and way too close to head and hands to take the risk in my opinion.
If dealer doesn’t exchange sayin it’s OK, at least you can assume he has thoroughly checked, in the worst case, he has to take his responsibilities for liability (what I hope from the bottom of my guts will not be necessary).
Stay safe

Thanks for the reply!
I have hard time to understand the tilting of reg body under pressure dynamic, it holds square OK for the first fill, but not after it drain down pressure, then start tilting during the re-fill . My worry was the leak, but now my biggest concern is the tube maybe no longer round and loose its structural integrity: there is probably more than 2000lb force exerted on the reg body, and it is going sideways next to my head :geekn: :geekn: :geekn: Maybe I’m thinking too much :geekn:


@kris
,
I will try the long screw method next time. Do you happen to know the size of the screw and thread? I just used a wooden dowel to push the reg out from gauge side.
I happen to have some 15micron 3M lapping film, did not dare to touch the air tube with it afraid loosing warranty. Maybe I will build up enough courage to polish it a bit. I think it was scratched from factory assembly while inserting the reg, tube feels like it is made of aluminum. Large amount of silicone grease delayed the symptom till now. On the day I was shooting it the temperature was in 90’s, under the sun the tube was warm and grease started to move, the vent hole was spraying air/grease mixture…


@Greg
, the spacer looks ok by naked eye, I should figure out a way to measure it accurately. Having it out the tube, I took the opportunity to put on a layer of electrical tape in effort to reduce the dreaded noise. Not sure if I could hear the difference though.

Strange that the reg would lean like that after assembly and re-filling, is your spacer cut crooked ?

~ Greg

you have to get rid of that deep scratch mark with 3M lapping paper or similar that is your problem, I don’t think it was the reg what scratched it like that, aluminium on aluminium would not leave such deep mark like that. maybe a grain of sand or a steel tool?

you can install the reg with a suitable long screw which goes into the threaded small hole in the middle, the same screw can be used to pull the reg out. usually it is enough to keep it straight when you are trying to get it past the threaded section. then the spacer and the firing body finishes the job when you screw it in carefully. when I do it the gauge end goes back in last when putting it back together ( or it comes out first to get rid of the vacuum when pulling it out (again I use the long screw)

the marks on the reg body are not a problem, but the scratch on the inner surface of the tube is a problem

is the tube the right way round?
:rofl:

another edit:
“I took the opportunity to decreased regulator pressure by aprox.1/8 of a turn, used a needle nose plier as spanner wrench to open the regulator, it is hard to hold and easy to slip, and I made a scratch on the reg 😐 It does not affect the function but sure was a moment I wanted to kick myself. :cry:”
when someone reads this they may think the reg needs to be taken apart for it to be adjusted. wrong. no need to do that.you grab the reg body with an adjustable spanner, and you grab the locking nut with another. that’s all. I guess you went into the reg to replace o rings instead.

The saga continues, can not fill more than 200bar.

Air tube was charged last night and holding pressure at 240 Bar 12 hours. I was happy to see no leaks.
Shot about 40 some pellets, pressure dropped to about 110bars, everything appears fine. Until I need to fill the air again.
Turn on my tank and tried to slowly fill the tube, the vent hole start to releasing air again as pressure builds up to 240bar, it took few seconds for the pressure to drop and settle to 200-210bar, and venting slowly stopped.
Shot several more string and reg is doing it’s job to keep the MV at about 870. After the strings I try to charge it and it will not hold more than 210bars.
Went through the whole process again to take apart the gun, remove the valve, spacer, and the regulator.
Again to my surprise I see the regulator is sitting in the tube in the peculiar position again as |\\|.
it must have moved a tiny bit as air move through the reg, or huge pressure pushing on the reg body, to cause it to tilt, rotate on it’s cross section.

This time I took some pictures.
The regulator edge contacting the tube wall. Please ignore the scratch on the bottom surface, I made that with needle nose plier yesterday.

scratch on tube wall

scratch on regulator body

So what do you think? O’ring too soft? or the tube deformed? that could be the worst senario but is possible, while several thousand psi pushing on the reg body in a angle, perhaps a bit scary. :confusedn:

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