Low power "duds" shots
I have a TalonSS and when I shoot a 40-50 shot string I’ll have 5-6 that are at like half power…you can hear it and feel it….I tore down the top end today and cleaned everything (it really didn’t need it) but that did nothing to resolve the low power shots..Anyone with ideas/suggestions, please advise..TIA
I’m thinking problem with valve, but have NO IDEA of what to do or how to do it
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Aw shit
tried to post off the phone last post
can the bottle ring be adjusted to compensat for the
slop
never had my collar out before
However an adjustable collar would really make things right
SAW
I personally like my TH where it is at 😯 😯 😯 😯
Sure, you can butter up the TH and be sure the breech is set right.
I think there is a much better way to address the issue.
Either get a super custom breech made that is right,
or,
why couldn’t there be an adjustable blade or what not with a slot so you could adjust the breech when locked ??
The prob would be is
if I shimmed the knob to make it tight
The slot has not enough room
I am starting to think the collar could be moved forward
to compensate
I also think that is not possibleP
SAW
To me, if you could pull that off, would be a good oe.
I was one day thinking return spring
😳 😳 😳 😳
I think it needs to be on the frame somehow.
Maybe an attachment to the upper rail ????
SAW
How about shimming the cocking knob with some sort of sleeve. Maybe made from a low wearing type of plastic. Or on the real simple cheap side black heatshrink tubing.. On the other end the top hat could have a spacer washer. But this has to be fastened and again may lose some hammer energy.
😯 🙄
SavageSam…..NO WAY DUDE!!! What I meant is that I do empty the bottle if I’m like going to do ANYTHING, that could even remotely be dangerous with air tank…I normally leave it at 2K psi..when I’m done shooting, I check it and make sure there’s at least that much air in it….from what i’ve heard and read, it’s like you said…WAY better to have air in tank at ALL times 😀
That heat shrink idea may work.
I personally like my TH where it is at 😯 😯 😯 😯
Sure, you can butter up the TH and be sure the breech is set right.
I think there is a much better way to address the issue.
Either get a super custom breech made that is right,
or,
why couldn’t there be an adjustable blade or what not with a slot so you could adjust the breech when locked ??
To me, if you could pull that off, would be a good oe.
I was one day thinking return spring
😳 😳 😳 😳
I think it needs to be on the frame somehow.
Maybe an attachment to the upper rail ????
SAW
How about shimming the cocking knob with some sort of sleeve. Maybe made from a low wearing type of plastic. Or on the real simple cheap side black heatshrink tubing.. On the other end the top hat could have a spacer washer. But this has to be fastened and again may lose some hammer energy.
Packrat are you saying that you drain your tanks everytime when you’re done shooting? If you are, your accelerating the wear on your tanks. The LESS you vary the pressures in the tanks the better for the metal. Fill to 2500, shoot to 2000, fill to 2500. Much better for the life of the tanks.
Guys,
I personally like my TH where it is at 😯 😯 😯 😯
Sure, you can butter up the TH and be sure the breech is set right.
I think there is a much better way to address the issue.
Either get a super custom breech made that is right,
or,
why couldn’t there be an adjustable blade or what not with a slot so you could adjust the breech when locked ??
To me, if you could pull that off, would be a good oe.
I was one day thinking return spring
😳 😳 😳 😳
I think it needs to be on the frame somehow.
Maybe an attachment to the upper rail ????
SAW
Absolute easiest thing to do is to put a little divers silicone (air not nitrox) on the top hat so that it will lube the breech o-ring. The video also recommends a touch on the barrel between the hammer and breach. When you close the breach pull it home and it will stay there until you take your shot. The divers silicone is a little viscous and helps hold stuff.
To adjust the top hat you need a 0.050 alan/hex wrench and some blue Loctite. Be very careful not to over tighten the top hat grub screws, just take them home and leave it there for the Loctite to set 6-12 hours.
My procedure for shooting / hunting is to load the pellet and de-cock the gun. I have heard on this forum the gun can shoot with a heavy knock… de-cocking is the safest way to prevent this.
COOL BEANS !! What you said about having play after lowering the TH got me to thinking…I just noew checked mine, it does have a few thousandths play in it now, that can’t be a good thing—exactly how would I go about adjusting that play out??? TIA for any help .
Looks like your saying dirt is on the outer part of the stem
Considering your pollen problem that is possible.
You are correct about not intentending to be the end all final word.
Just pointing out that there are other issues caused by adjusting the top hat and not taking up the slack in the cocking knob and breech.
However the results I have been seeing here seem to contradict any issues caused by lower Top Hat settings. There is no mention of slack or gap between the breech / hammer and Top Hat contact.
http://www.talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14387
We have similar yellow pollen here in Austin TX… It gets everywhere; I’m glad my gun stays inside for most of its life! But now I’m going to be doubly careful. 🙂
I’ve lived 62 years, and want to go for as many more birthdays as I possibly can 😆 😆 😆 ..as standard practiec, I ALWAYS empty air on any one of the 3 HPA rifles I have….not a big deal-I have a 66 cu ft 4,500 psi SCBA tank, so a little lost air doesn’t bother me…..call me old and “funny” if you will ….anyway Gimmick..I just wiped down what little part of stem was visible..if you knew just how fine the “pollen dust” I spoke of actually is, I think you’d see how it can get into anything!!
Techmod….I assume your post wasn’t intended to tell me I’m wrong, but it DID come across that way to me forgive me if I misunderstood.. What I posted is what worked for me..I adjusted my TH like more than a month ago, this problem has just very recently shown up, so TH was NOT a part of problem..I have it set at 0.080″ BTW, and hasn’t caused any problem other than use less air causing me to have longer shot strings.
Hmm, This is an ineresting finding.
The valve stem can be removed without dumping the air.
The Condor new gen valve stems are very thin as Walkon King has said in another post. Be careful tightening locking grub screws as you will dent and damage valve stems. Place a fitting drill bit or somthing similar while tightening Top Hat grubs. Use a light locking compound like blue loctite.
I noticed one shot was not as powerful as usual. The fact that I adjusted the Top Hat to 0.08″ probably had something to do with it. When the breech is closed and the cocking knob is located to either side there is a small amount of play. It could have been slightly forward not touching the Top Hat. The factory setting had no play. If there is a gap it may not transfer the hammer energy correctly. This is more likely than a dirty stem. Air comes out at great pressure so it would be hard to put dirt in there unless you put dirt in there prior to pumping up the tank. Or have a dirty air supply. Just blow in the valve and check couplers prior to pumping. I am going to reset my TH back to the factory .10 or shim the cocking knob shank for no slop.
Unless I experiance a dud I will not post in this thread again
Good luck with repeatability.
Sawatime,
I just bought one of Susonnics custom bolts. I have the airarher kit and it is hard to cock with the heavy spring. I have arthuritis and it get painful.
I put it in this afternoon and it is a joy to cock now. If you had him leave a little metal on the base ,so you could file and adjust it, you could take up all the slack.
It would still be metal to metal tho.
Roachcreek
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Just a simple reminder since no one mentioned it: having a fully seated pellet is also critical to getting a full power shot off. If a little of the pellet’s tail is sticking out it will change the air delivery and retard the TH’s movement. When you hear galloping outside, think horses before zebras….