Matador Degas Tool (Make Your Own)
I have never liked the process of degassing my Matador. So recently I made my own Matador Degas Tool. It works like a charm and cost less than $8.00. I thought others might be interested in making their own so here is how you do it.
What You Need:
1) Order on eBay one (Brake Line Thread Adapter – Male M10 x 1, Female M12 x 1 Inverted Seat). Make sure you get the Male M10 Female M12 and NOT the Male 12 x Female 10. The web link to the part is http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Line-Thread-Adapter-Male-M10-x-1-Female-M12-x-1-Inverted-Seat-/390439357032?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae7ffca68&vxp=mtr. Cost is $4.00 plus shipping.
2) At your local hardware store buy a 8×32 tap and drill combination, cost $2.35. and one 8×32 stainless steel allen screw 1″ long. Cost $.25
How You Make It:
1) Carefully drill and tap the Brake Line Adapter. Be careful to keep the drill bit in the center of the existing hole. Then tap the hole all the way through. The adapter is hard steel so take your time, use a good cutting oil and clean the part with a healthy rinsing of WD-40 when you are done.
2) Screw in the allen screw all the way to make sure you tapped the adapter correctly and all the way through.
How to Use the Tool:
1) Remove the screw from the adapter.
2) Lightly hand tighten the adapter on the Matador reg. Make sure the Matador valve pin lines up with the center of the adapter threaded shaft.
3) Insert the screw and gently tighten with an allen wrench it until you hear air hissing. It should take minimal effort. Let the air come out slowly.
4) Make sure all of the air is out before you start disassembling the gun.
That is it. Good luck…
Attached is a photo of all the parts.
All Replies
My $10 degasser/puller. :biggrinn: Took about 30 minutes to make. $2 more with the puller knob. Thanks Streetwise.
Hey guys, don’t forget my tool can be made for $8. and the only tool you need to make it is a hand drill. I have been extremely impressed with the workmanship and creativity others have used to make their tool. However, if you want to make your own, you want it fast, cheap and you don’t have access to a machine shop / welder, then you might want take a second look at the first post on this topic.
Ernest: your tool looks great and is far better looking than the ugly tool that I came up with! On the other hand, my tool could be made with a welder, a drill press and a ¼” x 20 tap in less than 20 minutes.
I like simple tools that I can make quickly and will do the job that I want them to do. I truly don’t give a rat’s ass what they look like, they just have to work as I intended.
If you would extend the overall length of your tool and cross drill the end of it for a rod to be inserted, once you remove the degassing screw, you could use your modified tool to pull the air valve/regulator assembly out of the air tube.
You then wouldn’t have to remove the front plug and use something to push the assembly out of the air tube.
Maybe you can put enough force on the screw head to allow you to remove the assembly, I don’t know. I have had some Matador assemblies that initially took some high twisting and pulling force to break them free and remove them.
Great looking tool! I am currently toying with the idea of buying a small lathe and mill to play with when I retire.
Hi Ernest,
Your degas tool will work as well, however it is made to the standard of a Swiss watch. It looked like something out of a Star Trek movie.
John p
Here’s My Degas tool!
its long so the knob extend past the tube for easy Degasing.
Ernest
Guys;
this is correct, i asked him i want to tell all guys over the talon forum to know how helpful you are, he is right we are not able to get these stuffs in Iraq at all, even there is no original o-rings here, but i can tell you that we have everything fake, so, i need to get even the cleaning patches overseas 😯 😯 😯 , FUCK…. 😥 😥
My Dear Mr. Tedd;
Since you are one of the an experienced man and Edgun professionalize, why you don’t send the complete info of the Edgun air valve rod or the degas tool to the man that his name is Marco Santos, he confirmed that he can make any think per requested, i asked him whether he can make it and replied he can but he need the accurate and complete detail for that, we can benefit from him, he can use alum for the air valve rod as well,
i know you need the confirmation from Ed regarding the air valve rod for R3M, i think sill you didn’t get it, ❗ ❗
or anybody that has a complete info for that….
I told brother Hemn, OK, go ahead and post the PMs. I was wary of him (Hemn? LOL!) doing so as, I thought that I would get guys asking for a degas tool also. I have gotten a couple requests already and I just can’t make anymore of the tools so: I am posting a picture and rough drawing of the tool.
I can’t cut metric threads (Ed needs to get civilized and convert the Matador to English, metric is sooo last century!!)! I had to weld a 12 mm X 1.0 mm pitch nut on a piece of .750” OD rod after I counter bored the end of the rod 0.200” with a ½” drill bit. The nuts are only .375” tall and you need at least 0.50” free space on the air valve end.
After the nut is welded on, I turn it down to the diameter of the rod and then use a #7 drill bit to drill at least 1” past the ½” counter bore face. This hole is then tapped ¼-20 SAE. You guys overseas could use a metric bold instead of the ¼ – 20 bolt.
The tool is then cut to 3.70” OA length, re chucked in the lathe and the other end is counter bored 2.50” deep using a ½” drill bit. The picture doesn’t show the ¼” ID cross drilled hole at the end of the tool very well. The cross drilled hole allows you to put a rod or hex key wrench in the tool and pull the air valve/regulator housing out without having to remove the front air tube plug and having to use something to push the assembly out.
Sorry for the crappy drawing and the look of the degas and removal tool! It might look like shit but; it works to degas the Matador and allows easy removal of the air valve/regulator housing.
If I could cut metric threads, I could take a piece of ¾” alum or steel rod and make one of these in 20 minutes or less. You guys could take this picture and the added dimensions to a machine shop and have it made.
You could save some money by having the shop only thread one end 12 mm X 1.0 mm pitch ½” deep, drill a #7 hole another 1” deep, cut the rod off at 3.75” long, flip the tool over, counter drill a ½” hole 2.50 deep and sell it to you. You then would need to buy a ¼” – 20 tap and tap the #7 hole or: you over seas savages could have the #7 one inch deep hole converted to a metric size and use a metric tap for the metric degas screw.
I could send you some metric tabs if you want. M 10,12,14,16 & 18.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2. This POS iPhone sucks though …
Hi Guys. I have been trying to help out fellow Edgun brother Hemn. I sent him some O rings and a degas tool that I made for him. He wanted to post some of my PMs to him to show how helpful I have been. I didn’t think that I was going out of my way to be helpful but; brother Hemn just can’t access any of this stuff locally. I just couldn’t let a fellow Edgun brother have to deal with being outside and looking in!
I told brother Hemn, OK, go ahead and post the PMs. I was wary of him (Hemn? LOL!) doing so as, I thought that I would get guys asking for a degas tool also. I have gotten a couple requests already and I just can’t make anymore of the tools so: I am posting a picture and rough drawing of the tool.
I can’t cut metric threads (Ed needs to get civilized and convert the Matador to English, metric is sooo last century!!)! I had to weld a 12 mm X 1.0 mm pitch nut on a piece of .750” OD rod after I counter bored the end of the rod 0.200” with a ½” drill bit. The nuts are only .375” tall and you need at least 0.50” free space on the air valve end.
After the nut is welded on, I turn it down to the diameter of the rod and then use a #7 drill bit to drill at least 1” past the ½” counter bore face. This hole is then tapped ¼-20 SAE. You guys overseas could use a metric bold instead of the ¼ – 20 bolt.
The tool is then cut to 3.70” OA length, re chucked in the lathe and the other end is counter bored 2.50” deep using a ½” drill bit. The picture doesn’t show the ¼” ID cross drilled hole at the end of the tool very well. The cross drilled hole allows you to put a rod or hex key wrench in the tool and pull the air valve/regulator housing out without having to remove the front air tube plug and having to use something to push the assembly out.
Sorry for the crappy drawing and the look of the degas and removal tool! It might look like shit but; it works to degas the Matador and allows easy removal of the air valve/regulator housing.
If I could cut metric threads, I could take a piece of ¾” alum or steel rod and make one of these in 20 minutes or less. You guys could take this picture and the added dimensions to a machine shop and have it made.
You could save some money by having the shop only thread one end 12 mm X 1.0 mm pitch ½” deep, drill a #7 hole another 1” deep, cut the rod off at 3.75” long, flip the tool over, counter drill a ½” hole 2.50 deep and sell it to you. You then would need to buy a ¼” – 20 tap and tap the #7 hole or: you over seas savages could have the #7 one inch deep hole converted to a metric size and use a metric tap for the metric degas screw.
Thanks Sir Ville… :8:
Brgds
Jack
I agree. Definitely. Very nice looking tool. 😉
Thanks strietwise,
Its far from perfect, but it does the job with no effort what so ever…
Brgds
Jack
Jetboy1,
Beautiful. That has to be the best looking degas tool on the planet. Very well done.
It’s nice. Edgun should sell with the degas tool like this one.
Here´s mine… 12mmx1 screw is 6mmx1 sure beats the broomstick, which scared the shit out of me when I did it the first time.
Brgds
Jack
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If for some reason you were in a major hurry and couldn’t wait on ebay/ups. A 1996 Nissan 300zx(any many more models) use a 12×1.25 lug nut. It’s not the right pitch, but it will go on enough to hold it while degassing. If you can’t find a 12.125 bolt to go into it. Just buy a wheel stud from same car. It’s not a great fit, but I needed a handle to pull the reg out so it worked just fine.