Microlite Bullpup kit for TalonP
Hi Guys, This is the thing I have been alluding too for a while now. It is a Drop in Bullpup Kit for the TalonP.
The Kit remounts the Barrel behind the hand grip,converts to a side cocking Action and adds baffling to quiet down the loud TalonP.
The Kits will also work on the Condor and Tss, but They are especially geared to the TalonP since it already has all the OEM requirements for The Bullpup conversion.
There is a detailed write up in the General Chat section, but Im posting some additional info here along with a Installation video for anyone who is interested.
Instruction Video
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Perfect, thank you. I’ll pm you when funds allow.
With regard to removing the power wheel, will it be as simple as replacing the PW with a suitably sized spacer?
You can add the TT suppressor no problem and a non-telescoping pc of blank Delrin to replace the PW should keep all the ML kit specs in place and make you UK compliant.
tagdagger, many thanks for the explanation.
You’ve prompted me to take a closer look at the UK scene. I was incorrectly under the impression that UK variants had used a spacer to replace the PW but that’s not the case. The PW window doesn’t exist on the 12fpe versions. However it does exist on the Fire Arms Certificate versions which as the name suggests, requires police certification to own, I won’t be going that route for the TalonP but might for my CSS.
Thank you, that says it all. Until I get home I can use the TT suppressor at higher fpe and in the UK I won’t require anything, the best of both worlds :winkn:
Am I right in thinking that the kits design will accept a TT suppressor?
With regard to removing the power wheel, will it be as simple as replacing the PW with a suitably sized spacer?
Thanks Hoot
And how would one go about converting the space vacated by the power wheel (2″?) to aid noise suppression?
While possible unfortunately it might take additional engineering to take advantage of the PW void. The barrel mount would have to move back 2” and the new rear action would have to be extended 2” or If the PW window is also gone on the UK frames you may be able to just move the rear bushing back which would give you the additional 2” of void less the width of the bushing.
The OD on the shroud in the video is 1.75.
It is a cool, but very radical mod that I did to my oldest original prototype frame that was used to engineer the kits so it was a good volunteer for the project.
tagdagger wrote:
If one was willing to get rid of the PW that would add 2 more inches for a total of 7” which might get you to mouse fart quiet.
The sound suppression that is built into the kits does very well as long as you keep it around 35fpe or less, However if you try to get closer to 50fpe with the 12” barrel its going to get louder and need an additional suppressor. 50fpe also overwhelms the available volume and starts to cause some blow back so an additional shroud is needed at that energy level.
Like Hoot said for the UK 12fpe range the built in suppression is going to be extremely quiet and there will be no need to add additional length to the gun with another shroud.
:hoot:
I believe you are right where you need to be with your thinking.
Especially at 12 fpe, there will be little to no muzzle blast. Further, Tagdagger was working on an enhancement to his own system to redirect air inside the shroud. Best talk to him about that.
Regards,
Hoot:
Thank you Hoot. First, let me start by saying that I don’t have any experience of the P so my perceptions and questions may be a bit off. But what you’ve said about the power wheel pretty much mirrors other tuned AF platforms.
Second, whilst full power isn’t an issue at the moment in a year or two I’ll be back in England and the gun will need to become sub 12lbs and the UK models aren’t supplied with a power wheel.
Third, .25 ammo is unavailable to me at the moment so I was thinking of going for a 12″ .22 barrel and varying the power by using a TTQCTH and the five inserts.
So taking these three points into consideration my thinking is as follows;
– doing away with the power wheel and utilising the TTQCTH and inserts, (plus the other usual mods), would make a highly configurable variable power gun, that could easily be made UK compliant
– as indicated by tagdagger, it would benefit from additional noise suppression without an increase in length
– I could use my 9″ TT suppressor if I felt the need.
So please tell me, am I on the right track here or is there anything I’ve misunderstood?
And how would one go about converting the space vacated by the power wheel (2″?) to aid noise suppression?
TIA
:hoot:
My power wheel is set on “0” and I see no need to go higher. This is my experience and yours may differ, but it is food for thought!
Neil Clague also made me a 9″ X 1.5″ grub screw attached LDC which made the gun silent, except for some minor hammer slap. You sacrifice length but when you need REALLY quiet….
Hoot:
Hi Tagdagger I’ve been following this kit with a lot of interest, my hats off to you for your innovation :8:
Back in December you wrote,
So, how useful is power wheel? In your opinion, assuming the benefits of the wheel are marginal would removing the wheel and replacing it with additional sound suppression be a good trade off?
Thanks, Dave! I’ll try to get in touch with them again. Ok, so is that shroud 2 1/4″ diameter?
Hoot’s right about that black Acetal. I don’t think it would distort or wear in a 100 years of use. The choice was and is difficult between using Acetal or aluminum as they both have advantages and disadvantages. Initially I went with the Acetal because it is extremely lite wt, rigid and would not mar the anodize on the gun when attaching to the gun frame.
While the Acetal is very rigid the Quick Detach version will need to be even stiffer without the added support of the Maddog or rail stock so aluminum is needed on that one.
At this point the folding tank(stock) is just a prototype that needs some more work. It functions and shoots well, but when shooting with a scope I notice a slight flinch to the left in the sight picture when the hammer strikes. Currently It only has an angled shoulder lock for the open and closed position,but I think it needs a redundant lock to get rid of the flinch I mentioned.
Coors, the frame ribs are gone and the frame is vented for more air volume on the ldc in the video. A call to Airforce would be the best way to get the right size on the oring.
Thanks for that, Hoot… that’s interesting. Dave, what material(s) are you going to use in that collapsing-stock version of the extended-receiver? And that shroud that covers the frame, did you turn the ribs off of the frame or are they still there?
As for my claim of my gun going sonic after swapping one of the breech-bolt o-rings, it simply isn’t so. I chronied it and got 1009, 1002 and 990,2, from a 2750 psi fill. So, I dug out all 3x boxed o-ring sets that I have and this time I removed the the 2nd, original o-ring from the bolt and compared it to the #011 o-ring in each set. What I found was that the 7/16″x5/16″x1/16″ o-rings from 2x of the 3x sets were thinner in diameter than the original. The metric set’s #011 was slightly thicker in diameter. I replaced both of the bolt’s o-rings with the metric set #011 o-rings and the sonic-crack is now gone. By the way, I still don’t know what size o-ring goes in the Talon-P valve.
:hoot:
Note from use…the Microlite material is holding up better than aluminum where the bolt seats when cocked! The aluminum frame would eventually get an indentation when the cocked bolt was seated. This is not the case with the material used in the Microlite.
Hoot:
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Here are some images of the new aluminum action that Dave (Tagdagger) sent me:
Full view:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ohkcrt78zxaauib/_1020758.jpg?dl=0
Right side:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yvkewot7jtop6i0/_1020770.jpg?dl=0
Left side:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/soso8w3vzo1j5i9/_1020763.jpg?dl=0
It was mentioned earlier in this thread that the original aluminum frames would get dented from the bolt handle smacking into them from the action of the valve return spring. The bolt handle from the Microlite kit is actually Delrin covered on the portion that makes contact with the frame, so I suspect that it will absorb the impact and not cause that kind of problem.