Moisture Problem
Hi guys , New to the forum and have a question i hope you can help with……I recently purchased a Freedom 8 compressor and i’m having trouble with moisture on the output side……I installed a moisture trap on the input side from the start but i still get moisture on the output…….Can i put a moisture trap on the output? I don’t think they will hold up to the pressure….Any help is appreciated….
Thanks
Mike
All Replies
As far as thick pads packing the beads tightly, as soon as air begins flowing through, the beads can shift a bit since felt isn’t spongy. The proper way to fill is under a spring pressure after the pad to place a constant pressure on the bead bed. That way, any shifting will tighten the beads all the more.
The biggest problem I can see with that system is that the beads come in direct contact with the pressure housing. Moisture that gets adsorbed by the first beads gets trapped next to the pressure wall and can lead to corrosion. Industry safe practices call for using a refillable or disposable cartridge that doesn’t allow the desiccant to come in contact with the housing.
Anodizing is an electrochemical process that converts the metal surface into a decorative, durable, corrosion-resistant, anodic oxide finish. Aluminum is ideally suited to anodizing, although other nonferrous metals, such as magnesium and titanium, also can be anodized.
Show me one Diablo tube where the anodic oxide finish that on the interior has failed from the moist dissicant.
You guys keep repeating that the moist dissicant is corrosive to aluminum. The Diablo tube isn’t just thick 6061t6 aluminum tube.
Stop quoting shit isn’t up to industry standards and fucking show me proof where the product has failed.
Thanks for the link, Guy. Seems like even 40% rH would be a concern on the output side, vs. the company’s statement about filters normally being changed before 60. Looks a lot like the Bauer indicators. Just noticed Fig. 5-9 of the Bauer Jr. manual also has incorrect part numbering. I wonder if that indicator can be added on to our models without a lot of trouble?
Ray, if you come back around, do you think a visual moisture indicator like
http://www.augustindustries.com/visual-indicator-ind-mois.asp
would be of utility in our systems? The pricing seems doable even for an air gunner. Was actually looking for an electronic humidity meter that can handle 4500+ PSI, but didn’t find something anywhere near this things’s $200 (after fittings and discs) level.
I think we would learn more listening to Ray than arguing with him. He’s a high pressure air professional with experience far beyond any one of us. Multiple, advanced systems, does it as a profession, and we are not even his main market. He supplies and works with freaking BREATHING AIR systems. If one of his setups is bad or out of industry standard, someone dies. We’re just airgun amateurs with our limited machines, lack of formal training in HPA systems, and zero years of actually making sure our air and tanks are good enough for life support. Our tanks share the same vulnerabilities as the ones used for breathing air. Doesn’t it make sense to listen to observations from an industry that takes better care of things than we do?
Sure, we can get away with wetter and dirtier air, but that doesn’t glorify ignoring the gems we are being given. One might not have a lower level of equipment and feel no desire to upgrade ones airgun air supply, but it is still good to learn. Me, I want to learn as much as I can from this man. The last thing I would want is for us to make his visits to this forum unpleasant.
The guy isn’t making sales of his compressors hand over fist into the airgun market. Most of us can’t afford to make the leap to that level. He’s helping us out freely with his expertise and we doggedly attack based on our tiny experience with puny machines lacking standards for measured air quality?!
I say listen to the man and thank him.
Good the Diablo you won’t regret it. Don’t believe in the snake oil people trying to convince you need this it that.
The problem with the video is that it is one of the first things that come up when searching for information. So, someone new to the filter would most likely follow that. And, just because you do it a safe way, doesn’t mean that everybody does.
As far as thick pads packing the beads tightly, as soon as air begins flowing through, the beads can shift a bit since felt isn’t spongy. The proper way to fill is under a spring pressure after the pad to place a constant pressure on the bead bed. That way, any shifting will tighten the beads all the more.
The biggest problem I can see with that system is that the beads come in direct contact with the pressure housing. Moisture that gets adsorbed by the first beads gets trapped next to the pressure wall and can lead to corrosion. Industry safe practices call for using a refillable or disposable cartridge that doesn’t allow the desiccant to come in contact with the housing.
If it was meant to be hand tightened, then it should have a knurled edge. If it is meant to be mechanically tightened, it should have flats or holes machined into it for use with a tool. If it had either of those, then you wouldn’t have videos online showing maintenance using pump pliers to take it apart.
Just cause some guy on the internet does a video using water pump pliers doesn’t mean everyone does. Stop assuming shit.
AOA List the Diablo as a 6000 psi working unit. I suggest you have the unit in hand before you go making wild claims of how the dissicant is packed. My unit has the dissicant packed and sandwiched tightly between 2 felt end pads that are .325 thick.
OK … I will give you that. But it just isn’t normal work practice for high pressure systems.
If it was meant to be hand tightened, then it should have a knurled edge. If it is meant to be mechanically tightened, it should have flats or holes machined into it for use with a tool. If it had either of those, then you wouldn’t have videos online showing maintenance using pump pliers to take it apart.
You don’t need to use pliers to undo the Diablo filter I been using a plastic strap wrench that has a rubber strap. If you can’t undo it with a strap wrench you’re a big pussy. I tighten it back up with the strap wrench and it’s never leaked air when I’ve connected it back up and run the compressor.
I know this is a few months old, but I am a NOOB here and I would like to chime in.
Differences?
- Joe’s uses our Coltri MCH6 series compressor filter body … tried, true and certified and has been in the market since 1985.
Diablo has a very pretty and THICK housing that is certified by … hmmm. - Joe’s has flats on the end cap to make it easy to install or remove for filter change
Diablo has a smooth and pretty cap that you have to put a protector on so you can use pump pliers on it so you don’t scratch the anodizing. - Joe’s uses a disposable cartridge that keeps the drying agent tight which prevents channeling as well as contact with the pressure vessel which can result in micro pitting and eventual failure.
Diablo just pours their chemicals in the pressure vessel which means a loose pack so moist air can bypass most of the beads. It wouldn’t be unusual for moisture to still be in the output air. - Joe has a pressure maintaining valve on the outlet of the filter housing making the filter work MUCH more efficient by increasing the density of the air being processed. Since moisture isn’t compressible, it will be forced into the matrix MUCH easier.
Diablo doesn’t.
As an outsider High Pressure systems guy, those are the obvious difference to me. There may be more but I think that those are enough to help ME to make a decision as to which one to get. But you may have other factors that aren’t so obvious so do what you need to do.
But DRY THAT AIR before pumping it into your equipment.
GKU: Thanks for the information, i will be looking into this as well.
You need to ask/contact Joe B.
He states this on his website that:
B) Most importantly SAFETY. NEVER make a high pressure filter where the filter material directly touches the cylinder walls of a high pressure filter. This is filter element 101. The moisture in filter media leaches acid, and hence must not come in direct contact with the filter tube. Acid that leaches out will eventually make it to the threads on the end-caps of the filter, weakening them, and eventually causing the high possibility of catastrophic failure. This point can’t be stressed enough. 4) I have left out some of the more obvious points, such as ensure your tubing can handle the pressure and is from a reputable source.
http://www.airtanksforsale.com/AlphaFilter/
May email to Randy at R&L:
If you feel uncomfortable with it please return it and we will refund your money in full.
Sent from my LG G4, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
—— Original message——
From: GKU Ukuleles
Date: Sat, Jan 16, 2016 10:06 PM
To: rlairgun@socolo.net;
Cc:
Subject:Diablo Dry Air System
Hello Randy,
Recently there have been issues and fear of this product I purchased from you not meeting it’s safety standards.
I stop using it ever since this posting on YF and wonder what can or should I do ?
http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/thread/1452950220/last-1452970248/Expand+Thread
Thank you Sir, Greg Uyehara
~ GKU
GKU: I don’t understand why you sent the diablo back (anodize Coating / and unsafe)? Can you please explain.
Heads up guys new info on the Diablo ADS.
The one Joe is selling is going for about $400 plus shipping and you need to let him know what you’ll be connecting it to so he can custom the fittings.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/thread/1452950220/last-1453050982/Expand+Thread
~ Greg
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
If I want smoke blown up my ass I’ll have my wife do it. Not some free advice giving compressor salesman.