Moly grease

i might end up getting new spring a piston seal from maccari…maybe even the complete tune….i gotta get it precise first….or at least get someone who shoots springers to vouch for it before i continue…cause i suck at shooting springers…its been so long…and im not dumping any more money into it before i know for sure that it works….

i dont care if its 12-15 fpe (its 14 right now bit on the low side compared to others reports)….

im gonna be polishing up the insides real nice….give it some lube the right places…see if i can eliminate some of that twang….and then we will see

thanks i ordered the honda lube….

will this stuff diesel if it gets infront of the piston ?

heres a little about whats been done so far

screws do come loose…..eventhing has been given blue loctite, and it has held up quite ok

i had hoped the trigger would break in but didnt happen with the first 2 tins of JSB through it now, but still after much adjusting i was quite happy, i lightened the pull considerably, but there was so many bumps, and friction places you never really knew if you hit second stage and it would fire or if you had just hit a bumb….it was bugging me

so today was the day the whole thing came apart for real.

the trigger guard screw is all the holds the endcap/trigger block in place, theres so little preload to the spring that no spring compressor is needed, actually i was hoping with the worst and had braced me up againts the wall…then all there came was a little pop…and it strech out about 2-3″…with no more pressure that you can push back in place with one hand

a phillips screw driver….some allen keys and a rubber mallet is all you need to do work on this rifle !

the trigger assembly came out , its riveted together, i have read several places to drill them out and replace with screws, but i didnt find the necersary at all….pop out the crosspins that sits quite loose and your good to go….main sear is held by a tube, thats a bit harder to hammer out but over all it was all quite easy.

i must say some of the trigger bits looks like the edges where theres friction was the same edges that they had cut along with a saw leaving numerous pits and rought surface

side of the trigger looked like this, after a bit of sanding…it was worse than the picture shows

i polished it up with 2000 grit, took quite a while with wet sandpaper…something like 5-10 minutes per side to get every single little pit out …. i could have saved some time and found some coarser grit sandpaper…but i didnt bother…recently moved and i have no clue where it is….

picture is unclear but if i had wiped it down with a degreaser, you would have been able to see the mirror polish !

this is the bit the 2 adjusting screws touches from the trigger….it was so rough, it was a joke ! it looked like thats where they had sawed the bit to shape !…..

here it is after sanding the wors away with a piece of 240grit i found

tons of pits and cross scratches….yuk !

ok so now its starting to look better….i sanded the bit alot more, and ended with a mirror shine, no pits no scratches anymore, was running out of time as the wife wanted to go get her handgun safety certificate….so i dropped taking pictures… but every place where parts meet up was polished with 2000 grit wet sandpaper….

then i gave it a milltek treatment with, where you apply the oil and heat it up…rinse and repeat 3 times….then gave it a very light coat and started to reassemble….once assembled i tweaked the adjustment screws….

first the spring tention screw…just tight enough that theres no play in the trigger…blue loctite on it to keep it in place.

then first stage was adjusted so it could release the sear, and backed off quater turn, so very close to the first stage can set the rifle off but not quite….then second stage screw was adjusted so that just before the trigger stop it would release. this is so much easier done with the trigger unit out of the rifle instead of having to cock and load it before testing it all….

reassembled everything with blue loctite (the kind ment to keep screws in place but can be taken apart)

now for the first shot….the damn safety was stuck for some reason….i have no idea why…took it all appart again…turns out rotating it a bit and it was good to go….

now to the results….WOW….first stage is a mile long, i wonder if theres a way to shorten it….first stage is silky smooth, it glides smoothly to second stage which is easy to feel, and then it fires…super predictable….i would say its now very close to my former AA410 trigger !

its just much better now, its not theoben Rapid or Eliminator trigger….but its very good, im very happy i spent the couple of hours on doing it….and highly recommend B40 owners to give it same treatment.

next couple of ideas i have it to lighten the rifle as i find it quite heavy, i was thinking of replacing cocking arm with a carbon fiber one.

i have read how difficult the shroud is to take off…but i was thinking of replacing that with carbon fiber tubing as well, which could be quite easy…just saw off the current shroud so i would be sticking out 2-3″, and then simply find a piece of carbon with the proper ID to mach the current shroud OD, make an endcap for the fiber tubing, bit of gluing and done !

im not sure if some of my inaccuracy of the rifle is due to a bad crown or just me being a crappy springer shooter….while the rifle was appart i did check that noting is clipping in the shroud, with piston out i could see right through, and i could not see any edges of the shroud from any angle….so thats good

allso when lightening the front i would prolly mill out the stock in the rear to balance it again….but thats all for another day 🙂

found a dealer about 1 hour from here….ordered online cheaper than gas….and he’s close by so get here fast, i would just have liked to pick some up today

thanks