Moving the foregrip closer to trigger
I have removed the forward screw on the trigger guard and used the countersunk screw from the fore grip through the same hole to move the fore grip back. The original hole is now open, I can see the power adjuster through this hole. It seems quite a comfortable shooting position, though I’m a bit concerned that the countersunk screw may not penetrate as deep into the ally frame as the original, and I don’t want it to wreck the tapped thread in the soft metal over time. The grub screw on the end cap seems a bit loose in its hole, even though the rifle (Talon SS .22) is new and I have never over tightened it, and there is no visible damage to the thread on the grub or the hole. Anyone care to comment?
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Here you go Bodi
I just used a stainless allen head screw and machined it down to what I needed. I drilled and tapped the bipod mount to match those threads. I also drilled both sides of the leg pivot point to match the two new pin sizes.
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=140&highlight=bipod
Edit: I took out the pics and put a link to my original bipod post with the new pics added. My pics were taking over this thread. I apologize.
I will pull one out and take a pic or something.
when i moved the foregrip back it worked graete but when i polished the triger parts the hamer wouldnt cath some times , because the triger gard holds the springs the push the sear up and the foregrip dosent tighten the triger gard all the way maybe with a spacer would work greate.
Shadoh, i can see what you have on the outside of the bipod legs, how is it you have no hardware extending on the inside of th legs? Counter sunk fastener?? I’d like to do the same with mine. Could you provide some more info?? Thanx
Every one says that the vented bushing really do the trick. That and the small holes under the frame into the forward hand grip. But the blast of air drove me nut’s . Air came out under the frame to the point it was loud so close to my face. Even though I packed the hand grip with deadener. Also, air blew into my face from the breach area. What was happening was air was going through the space between the rear bushing and the barrel it’s self. This was with a 12″ bbl.. I now have an 18″ Bbl. in the SS with an 8″ LDC. I haven’t as yet vented the forward bushing. It is very quite, without the air in the face, or loud blast from under the frame.
With all this being said, others have preformed the bushing vent and frame mod, and love it! Mike
Its an Airforce Bipod that I modded. The factory one wont mount to the top rail (which is damn stupid that it wont) because of the pins that hold the legs on. I modded the way the legs are attached to the mount so that there is noting on the inside of the leg to get in the way. It just clears the frame tube now.
I remember seeing pics in the past of guys who have put a trirail on the top of the tupe and then mounted the stock bipod on top of that. That allows the legs to clear and still have some cant. Maybe someone still has a copy of those pics.
Heres a link with all the pics of the modded bipod.
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=140&highlight=bipod
Shadoh, I like your bipod setup, what brand – model is it . Thanks,Paul
Sadly, I didnt fire the gun between the baffles and venting the bushing and frame. I had it all apart so just went all the way.
I cant really rate it because I dont have anything else to compare it to (. I did do a write up with a sound meter here somewhere on with and without the baffles.
RiffRaff, well done my friend where we’ere you when i stripped out my foregrip screw, now i have a #12-24 screw hole in there to hold my foregrip in place. It worked fine just sucks that i had to do it. I like the epoxy idea alot. Thanks alot for the info on the heli coils, the pamphlet looked like a good solution. i did not read it though. As it looks there are special tools one has to buy as well, they are not cheap.
Shadoh, how effective do you rate your baffle setup without say venting your bushing and frame. I’ve been a fan of your work, its clean, and well thought out. The q is in regards to the other thread you posted on. I’m really interested in veterens thoughts on the bushing/frame venting issue. Am i the only one who believes its almost as important as the baffles themselves?? The way i see the setup its a decompression chamber, all that air has to go somewhere and the bushing/frame venting allows this to happen. Your input on this please.
The cap is a threaded cap that allows me to screw on toys easily. It also holds in my baffles in the frame.
Threaded endcap
Internal LDC
Shadoh, can you tell me what the silver end cap there does?
And thanks for the replies. Always interesting.
Shadoh I love that bipod rig you have. Very sensible and out of the way.
As far as the loose screws go, I wouldnt try the helicoil replacement because it requires drilling and tapping a too large hole to set the coil into. The helicoil threads are just wound wire and WILL come loose again.
Blue threadlock is the way to go as long as your threads are still usable. Just be sure to let it set up for a day before you even touch it.
Another option I have used in aluminum threads (but not on my gun, yet) is filling the hole with a good epoxy, redrilling and retapping the hole. If done correctly it works very well.
Yet another method is to use bedding epoxy for riflestocks. Dip the screw into the release agent, then brush it deep into the threads. Fill the hole with the epoxy and gently thread the released screw into the hole. Wait a day and remove it, you should end up with a usable threaded hole.
The key for the last method I described is follow the directions very carefully, or you will have a permanently epoxied bolt.
Oh, remove the guts from your gun first too. If epoxy gets inside the frame and sets up, you will play hell with getting the barrel out to clean it up.
For bench shooting I like bags. I really only use my bipod as a stand for my rifle and the occasional supported shot at something far. For that reason I wanted my bipod on the top rail so it would be out of the way when not in use.
i have done the same thing for years…..no problems
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I like the extra rail space with the fore grip moved back. But the triggerguard screw is 7/8″ long for a reason isn’t it?
The foregrip screw is not nearly as long. This allowed an alignment problem inside. When I replaced the standard triggerguard screw, something inside had to be moved into place with an allen wrench to realign.
What would a proper replacement length be? The triggreguard screw is a buttonhead hex with 10/32 threads and a star washer.