My baffles
Here are my baffles I have made for both SS’s. Many trials and errors have found these to be the best so far in noise reduction, all while working on a budget too. Lowes has all the parts and I spent under 10 bucks to do both guns.
The first image is kind of an exploded view of what all is incorporated in the way I built them. I found that odd sized chambers and the 1″ fender washers with 1/4″ center holes perform best in stripping the air as well as the odd sized chambers breaking up the harmonics.
Hope this is easy enough to understand if you should want to try doing your own, if not let me know and I will try and answer questions about all the wrong things I did prior to this set.
The first piece to install is the 3/4″ PVC pipe cut to 3/4″ in length. This is wrapped in a single layer of scotchbrite pad and fits tight inside the shroud. Snug it down against the front barrel bushing with the barrel free floating inside the PVC. The first steel fender washer dropped into the shroud will come to rest against the end of the PVC leaving a 1/4″ gap between the crown of the barrel and the first washer. Whether your bushing is drilled or not, this does not restrict air flow through the bushing.
Stack the remaining pieces of 1/4″ PVC pipe perforated with holes and double wrapped very tightly with scotchbrite pad, with each seperated by rubber washers sandwiching one steel fender washer with 1/4″ center holes. As you go, just make sure everything is centered to the path of the pellet coming through the barrel.
The final piece may have to be trimmed a few times to get the end cap to fit snuggly. I used a couple of rubber washers at the very top so that some force was necessary to push the endcap on in order to secure all baffles in the shroud.
I was amazed at the reduction in report these made after trying several different configurations of materials. I am thinking the PVC walls help reduce the noise while the holes allow the air to be stripped at the same time.
All Replies
Wow walt_in_hawaii…Is an air rifle shot best trapped by a few larger chambers or a bunch of smaller ones?…I mean which chamber is best for trapping high frequency and which is best for low?..Do you need different sizes to try to tap the full range of frequencies?..Or would more chambers be better than less?
The odd sized chambers don’t reduce harmonics. Human hearing is not a geometric progression. Your ear is much, much more sensitive to higher frequencies than lower ones. Conversely, lower frequencies take much, much more energy to produce. But each sized chamber has its own harmonic frequency, which it will absorb more of than another different sized chamber. So the net result is, some chambers seem to absorb more sound than others. Yes and no, what is really happening is your ear tends to be more sensitive to certain frequencies and if those are filtered better by certain sized chambers, the device sounds quieter to you. It may actually be less efficient and let more energy through, but that doesn’t matter, what matters is what your ear hears, not how much energy it bleeds.
walt
Triggerman, nice work. I see you’re getting some good answers intuitively, and good results. Keep in mind there are 2 separate vectors and your components should be designed to minimize or attenuate both effects. You’re hitting close to the mark. The two vectors are sound, which is a compression and then rareifraction of air at a microscopic level (and then repeat at whatever frequency you’re at, this happens thousands of times a second) but no airflow as the energy is propagated without displacement of air. Energy moves through the close packed air molecules but doesn’t carry the molecules along with them. The other vector is airflow, which is actual movement of mass and is easily visualized, and easily predictable as it simply follows a pressure gradient. Each vector obeys different physical laws to confine and shape them. Master both, grasshopper, and attain true nirvana.
walt
I tried this setup but couldn’t fit the 3/4″ PVC in the frame….I just used 1/2″ all the way..I made 4 chambers and it is quiet as a mouse….Ok maybe not a mouse but very quiet….Birds don’t fly until the pellet hits….The one’s that are still alive that is…
Thanks for the info and pics…
jeff
Clover leaf designe works very well , but are very labour intensive. There are easier and just as efective ways of making chambers in stock( ally/nylon ).
I got hold of some pourus plasitc samples recently and am going to have a bash with this stuff.
Some of the samples seem easily rigid enough to machine.
Sean
Yep, thou shalt re-zero after EVERY remove/install. Even if you THINK you have it perfectly back on like it was, you dont 😛
point of impact might shift with a pickle or shroud….you must zero the rifle after instalation
Thanks for the info trig! And the link to Tony’s shroud.
MIke
These baffles are pretty cool… may try it myself, but I’m thinking of making my own extender from 1″ alumi tubing inside frame, so the ID dia would be smaller. Just wondering if anyone has noticed any accuracy issues/changes after installing these baffles, if any.
I found some 3/8 ID “PEX” tubing at the local Ace hardware. I cut it to 1″ long pieces and then drilled holes like yours triggerman. I have 3/16 flat washers spaced at every interval, and a heavy spring under the baffle cap. I found some non abrasive scrungy cloth things, they were blue. I was able to get three tight layers on mine.
I’ve got a .177, so the 3/16 washers work great. Definitely a big difference in noise!
By the way, I vented the front bushing. The first washer is probably 1/4″ ahead of the muzzle.
Jim
Mike-
I just did an update to a thread here. I will vouch for Tony’s shrouds……
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1910
Rick
Made an exact replica of your moderator and she is more silent than before. I still will be looking tony up for a shroud tho, I like the way it looks on the gun. 😀
That is very interesting Triggerman. The frame vents sound like they aren’t helping in the sound department h-m-m-m-m I remember others saying they definitely heard air coming out of them after they did it. I always figured worst case was I’d have to put something in the front handle to kinda block off the holes or at least have the air blow into something like cotton or cloth.
Have you done a hammer slap mod and o-ringed the valve stem yet also?
Jim.
Jim-
The first fender washer is 1/4 inch infront of the barrel muzzle. Have not found that it makes any difference in accuracy or fps further out from the end of the barrel.
The older SS I have the front bushing and frame vented. The new one is not vented and is quieter than the old one with vents.
I have tophats set at 0.082 on both guns The new gun shoots Kodiaks at 760 – 770 fps, the old gun runs about 730 -735 with them. Both power wheels are set at 9. Got no clue here if the drop in fps of the old one is due to the venting or just because it is older, but that is all I can get out of it. Both are .22 cal also.
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Clover leaf designe works very well , but are very labour intensive. There are easier and just as efective ways of making chambers in stock( ally/nylon ).
I got hold of some pourus plasitc samples recently and am going to have a bash with this stuff.
Some of the samples seem easily rigid enough to machine.
Sean
Thats a frickin work of art man. Beautiful piece.