Q:

My Benji pumper is leaking thru barrel

Whats wrong and how can I fix it? Anyone? Do I just order a kit and tear it down?

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Awesome man. Glad it got your gun fixed up! I think my spring came out of one of those spring assortments from harbor freight. You gotta make sure the outer diameter of the spring isnt bigger than the stock one though. It sits in that little pocket in the trigger guard and will get pinched between the halves when you bolt it together. You’ll see what I mean.

Well, did the trigger and decock, just looking for a weak spring, not sure where to find one, may leave it, got that initial grab out of it, that was really all that messed me up, did not do the travel thing though, seems like a 2 stage trigger now, pretty cool and was easy fix. Thanks a million Jones, and keep up the good work.

Wow, this is going to be fun, my 1957 benji has a trigger that’s good, I don’t understand why they started making shit triggers. I understand all you explained very good, can’t wait to fix this gun.


Alright lemme see if this makes sense. At note 1), you have to chop this off below the surface of the trigger housing. Its been several years since Ive done it, but I THINK I had to do it to allow it to be decocked.

Note 2) this is the heart of the shitty trigger. The straight angle from the factory here actually makes the trigger have to push the hammer back when pulled. It binds up, and you are pulling the trigger against the trigger spring, the big torsion spring, AND the hammer spring! No wonder it sucks! This will make it lighter by this one mod.

Note 3) this gets rid of the long pull before it fires. You drill through the trigger, and put a nail, wire, bolt, rivet whatever and glue it in place. It rests on the trigger guard there and takes up some of the pretravel in the trigger pull. You have to file it down so its just right or it will go off with a bump. You have to leave just a little creep. But you can set it to a hair trigger, and cock the gun only when youre ready to shoot. I glue an aluminum rivet through it, so you can sand it easily to get it adjusted right.

Note 4) This is where the interference occurs that makes the safety nonfunctional. You could easily grind that tip down to fix it if you like. But I decock mine after I load, and then just pull the bolt back and cock it before I shoot. No worries doing it that way, and you can get the trigger to just a touch is all it takes to fire.

All this looks hokey I know, 🙄 but my trigger takes less than a pound to fire and has such little creep you cant notice it. BUT, if you leave it cocked and bump it, or pump it too hard it will go off. But simply cocking the gun, loading a pellet, and decocking completely eliminates that possibility. The only spring I changed was the little one behind the trigger, but its still not much over a pound with the stock one. Hope all this makes sense. It works great when its done, just get it set right and pay attention when I mentioned the decocking part 😆

For me, the weight isn’t the part that makes it “suck”. Its the creep. That looong drag before the shot goes off. All I do to mine is change the angle on the sear where it catches the hammer, and drill through the trigger blade and glue in a pin that takes out the creep. Basically, it keeps the trigger pulled most of the way. You lose the safety, but I just decock it after I’ve got a pellet loaded. Then just cock the hammer real quick before you take a shot. Its hard to explain without pics, I’ll work on getting some up in a few if I can.

Did you ever make a vid of how to make the trigger lighter? Mine is really bad.
Found out some stuff on airgunsmith.

Right on 😎

Just got done and it is working now, Thanks brother, it only took some carb spray, barrel brushes, and some pen oil, she is holdin and shooting strong. It was very gunky and sticky.

If yours has an aluminum valve I’d highly suggest a whole new valve. Last one I bought was like $14 for the whole valve assembled and ready to drop in. Hell really if it needs any valve parts just get you a whole valve 😀 Just make sure the part number is 397B032 if yours is the same as the gun in the video. The “B” denotes brass. Also get a spare set of orings for the valve body, as the thin one usually gets cut on removal. They can be found locally at the hardware store, but I dont remember the size right off. I’ve been screwin with 392s for a long time, just lemme know if I can help.

Hey, Thanks alot, I was going to just order a whole valve, but I better tear down 1st then. Much appreciated!!

If the teardown vid was on youtube, thats probably mine. If you’ve got air coming out the barrel as you pump it, you either have a leaky valve stem or the hammer spring is holding the valve open. Most likely the valve seal is shot or has gotten a little dislodged. If your valve is aluminum and not brass, it may be full of corrosion crud that just needs cleaned out. Pull the valve apart and see whats going on. I bet you can fix it without buying new parts. Hope that helps.

Well found a U-tube video on tear down, so all is well now, Thank-you all for not helping a man down. Ahh, love this place, no seriously this time.

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