Q:

My Regulator CONCEPT

Please be kind to my little idea to use ANY paint ball regulator in a stock SIZED tank arrangment.

The idea is to make a new tank the same size at the original, but it is a three piece tank.

part 1 in red, is the main tank a simple capped tube with threads inside the open end

part 2 in green, threads into the main tank and rests on a lip with an oring. Part 2 has a threaded hole in the center to allow installation of ANY (paint ball) regulator that is available.

Part 3 in blue, threads into the main tank and rests on an oring and locks against part 2. The stock airforce valve threads into part 2.

With this design I do realize that the first couple shots after charging would be at higher than regulated pressure because it depends on charging through the regulator backwards.

This is not to scale, but I think the regulated volume could easily be make smaller to allow for more air stored in the main tank. I am a few tools and a little bit of skill from being able to make this but I thought I would throw it out there, because I would like to get one made.

Martin D. White

Mods/Machinists

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Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)

get a co2 adapter and a pb hpa tank and you got what you want if you want more than 850 psi get the crossman tank for the discovery its regulated at 2000 psi only problem is its a fat air tank but you could get a smaller tank for that regulator.

Look out with that ❗ ❗ ❗

When there is 200 Bar ( 3000 PSI ) in the high pressure side, you have a force of 200 x say 1/4 x 3,14 ( pie ) x dxd = 3925 KG, ( +/- 8000 pounds ) force to that side. so take care.

Okay you have also pressure on the other side , but when the regulator did’t work good, you have all the pressure on one side.

stay a way from that trick!

quote :

Atmsopheric pressure must be available to the spring case for reliable operation of the regulator.

IMHO Mike has the best as in the absolutely BEST bottle regulator design to date. Bar none!!! Smile

Mike’s is not vented to atmospheric pressure. He says it works fine but Im curious how long it would go before it finally leaked enough to require pulling it out and bleeding out the pressure.

You would need a seperate valve in the green wall to allow for filling the bottle.

But unless you intend to make the entire bottle from very heavy-gauge steel I can’t see it being safe. That kind of design would have to be massively over-engineered just for peace of mind. Then you’d need to be a gorilla to lug it. 😆

quote MartinDWhite:

Why would the plate in the middle need to be very thick?

You need to do some maths and find out all the stresses in your design.
Limit the stress in the material to 20% of its strength and then you will see
how thick the material has to be.

A reg cannot be reverse flowed as the reg is shut when the sensed pressure is at/or above the set pressure.
Atmsopheric pressure must be available to the spring case for reliable operation of the regulator.

IMHO Mike has the best as in the absolutely BEST bottle regulator design to date. Bar none!!! 🙂

Walter…..

because flat plates deflect a lot when they are under pressure, and if it deflects too much it will break.

Why would the plate in the middle need to be very thick?

That plate in the middle would have to be very thick, and you are going to have a problem controlling the expansion of those threads.

Im sure you folks will post more questions and tips for you but let me start them out ).

Most regulators need to see outside air to regulate properly. Im pretty sure paintball ones do as well. How will you do that?

Do paintball regs have pass through valves that allow them to be filled from the front?

Who will make that tank for you? The tank on these guns is what limits putting a regulator in them to begin with. If you, or you have somebody that can make custom tanks then there are several ways to add a regulator and avoid all the hassle we have now of trying to fit one inside the existing tanks.

Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)

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