need a little help,reg install
hey guys if any of you have installed etacregs before, i could use some help. if i have to time the vaive ,where do i piut the shims , do i put it between the airforce valve and etac reg? just wanted to make sure .
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I did things a little different in my hillbilly gunsmithing, a field expedient skill that RiffRaff envies his poor little soul over. 😆
I timed my Etacs not with the shims, but by rotating the Collar. I considered the shims and tried them, but to me that was a poor fix to timing the ETACS.
At first I just loosened the collar retaining screw in the bottom of the frame, and that worked fine for the long ETAC, because I could still unscrew it.
I had replaced the original collar retaining screws because the holes in the collar for the tits on the retaining screws no longer lined up and it made them protrude too far down into the frame so that the grip retaining bushing would no longer enter the frame.
But the Short ETAC although alinged by this process, could not be removed from the rifle, then I saw where someone, perhaps Walt in Hawaii, and excuse me Walt if I am taking your name in vain by mistaking you for someone else and promoting my legitamacy, had drilled and tapped the side of the frame to further strengthen the collar retaining system.
So I drilled and tapped the side of the frame, that worked much better, it allowed me to rotate the collar and to remove the bottle by removing the bottle and collar at the same time.
I ground a point on the end of the set screw to allow a bite into the collar.
If I had access to a lathe, and I wanted that ETAC/valve assembly to fit on only that specific rifle, I would turn down the collar to time it with the frame on assemblies that could still be removed from the rifle, like the longer ETAC assemblies.
Both of these mods afix the collar in a secure manner and worked for me.
Regards,
Roachcreek
(NOTE: I found out later that after I installed the new ETaC which required 3 .008 shims to “time” for level, that this had taken the tophat in a rearward direction, away form the breech by .024. The factory tophat setting was .070. I adjusted the tophat to .100 – close to .070 + .024, and the FPE came back up. Without a Chronograph, I probably would have just readjusted the scope and not realized I had lost 7 to 26 FPE !
http://talonairgun.com/forum/posting.php?mode=editpost&p=212110
yea im gonna test it out tomorrow,btw what did u have your tophat before , and what is it at now. and when i do get another reg setup im just gonna get the straight one with no bend,just screw it in and rearrange the butt pad
I just got the ETaC Ambi as well and it took 3 for mine to line up. Jim will set you up right with the right amount of shims. Remember to readjust your tophat gap. I lost between quite a few FPE until I figured out what happened.
i tried with no shims,i have a straight angle down etac reg,and with no shims it is pointing upwards. now i tried 3 , now i have a perfect left hand cast off,lol i shoot lefty ,so i am just gonna keep it this way.even though it was a straight angle drop reg isometimes shoot right handed when hunting so thats why i got the ambi one.and everything is as tight as could be so im probaly gonna keep it this way. and hoot i thought about emailing gaska but im to lazy and impatient so ,in the words of the farmer from babe ,”that’ll do pig” thanks guys
You can make them out of Roof Flashing which is used under the shingles where the roof line of like a garage meets the wall of a house. Pieces are about 6 inches long and are bent at a 90 degree angle and are about .008 inches thick.
Jim Gaska will send them to you, but I would think that with 4 at a total of .032 inches, should be enough to set the spin just right. Maybe you don’t need any. Also take a smooth rod or pipe and roll the edges flat, as they have a peel over from being punched out.
Drop Jim Gaska (Marmot_Militia) a PM and I’m sure he will send you a couple, if you bought the Etac from him. If not, they are very thin and I suggest picking up a couple from him. They are dirt cheap.
Hoot
NOTE: The total thickness of the number of shims you use will take away from your tophat gap (theortically), so for each shim which is .008, add them up and increase your tophat gap by the same amount, else you will loose power.
Search the forum for proper tophat screw tightening technique.
kk thanks air gunner , i did that, i think i need one more shim he only gave me 4, maybe ill make one out something
Put the shims on the valve just before you screw it into the collar in the frame. The shims help you to tighten up the whole tank/vavle assembly as you normally screw it on for dalily use, but lets the gauge point sideways toward you.
NOTE: The total thickness of the number of shims you use will take away from your tophat gap (theortically), so for each shim which is .008, add them up and increase your tophat gap by the same amount, else you will loose power.
Search the forum for proper tophat screw tightening technique.
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Nice – I suppose if one took the collar out and drilled 7 more set spots around the collar, then surely there would be enough hole / shim combinations to time the ETaC and still keep the screws in the bottom of the frame where there is lots of thickness.