Need info on airforce gun in stock configuration
I have been thinking of buying a new airgun for a while now. I am looking at a condor 25 in a stock configuration. I have tuned a few PCPS and feel pretty good on my tuning ability but I dont have the money for all the aftermarker stuff……yet 🙂
1) what FPE does a new condor put out with heavy pellets, 6 or 7 rings, kodiaks? Only tuning for high FPE, no new parts or machining.
2) If I change to a heavy hammer will I need to go to a steel breach to handle the extra pressure?
If you were going to build a High FPE Condor on the cheap how would you do it? I still need to have some money left over to get a TT shroud 🙂 My goal is around 100 FPE Thanks for the help!
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This is just adjustments, no polishing or any springs or heavy hammers? I am trying to evaluate exact what would work best for me. I really want a hight power shrouded airgun. A repeater would be a plus but I do not want a LDC on the front. I like the bull barrel look of the shroud. I am thinking the Condor would be perfect but I dont want to spend alot and then wrap up more money to get it to where I need it power wise. Too Bad I dont know someone in Texas that has one I could shoot. Thanks for all the help and PM info!
PB, your post made me go back and do my maths again.
Turns out I was easily getting 70 fpe (30 grains at 1025fps, 20 shots at 30 psi each shot) with a stock Condor valve and hammer weight on a 24″, 25cal barrel set up in a Talon SS. So any Condor can get these same numbers without modification. My top hat was set at 0.088″ and the power wheel was set halfway.
70 grains at 800fps is 100fpe…
60 grains at 870fps is also 100fpe…
I could shoot from a full fill with my Talon SS and a Condor tank/valve/hammer weight without problems…
Yeah mine TT .25 would barely and as soon as the hammer spring got tired it wouldn’t. That’s when I started to going for bigger numbers. Heavier hammer spring, Blod valve, a even heavier spring and so on. Right now I’m working on a larger bore Blod valve type. I think it’s going to need more hammer spring also. If so I have another valve based on the condor design I’m going to make that won’t take such a heavy spring. Tools show up today for it but won’t start on it until next week. I’m going to make 160 fpe in .25 with air. I will see which valve gets me there.
Your probly right , i peak at 2750 for 1100 with the 32 grain pellet, and fill to 3000 for 20 to 30 shots, 3000 will kill a little fps to allow a shot string, 2750 being the peak of the curve.
He wants to shoot slugs so he needs to be able to open his valve at 3000 psi. I don’t think a stock condor will open the valve with 3000 psi fill.
Guys tell him what he can do stock, that’s what he needs to know, he can mod later after the initial purchase
I can run 32 grain eunjin’s at 1100 with my 22 condor, that’s right at 85 foot pounds, no after market mods , just polished everything i could get my hands on, ported valve myself, polished out side and inside of the barrel, inside of frame etc.
The thing is i cant shoot at this setting because it breaks the sound barrier around town , and only get 1 1/2″ groups at this velocity, but if i slow the pellets down to 1000 to 980 i can get 1/2″ groups at 71 foot pounds , but with the 25 you should be able to shoot the heavier pellets with more than 85 foot pounds and stay under the sound barrier with more energy.but i haven’t experience with the 25
So guys if he works the gun over himself , polishes everything, like i have my gun, what can he get out of it, with stock hammer etc, with just work he can do himself.
another words if i can run 32grain 22 cal at 1100 what do you think my gun would run the 25’s with a barrel change.
Modding is easy to go to 100 FPE
Tony’s 95 gram Hammer and Vented Bushing
Randy’s R&L Extreme Valve
TagDagger’s Airarcher Valve Sping and Retaining Nut
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21275&highlight=120
If you want to do it right you need to spend some money. First thing I would do is get a larger tank and a etac. The stock tank to me is a waste of time if your trying to make power. Shot count is to low and fps between shots is a lot higher. You need to modify your valve quite a bit or buy a modded one to make a 100 fpe. I would say you need a 95 gr hammer and a little stiffer spring. Shroud is good at a 100 fpe but 120 and I would take it off.
I easily hit 50FPE with a Talon and a Condor valve/hammer weight and 30 grain pellets and a 25cal 24″ long barrel…
You may need a trick valve or an extra heavy hammer to hit a solid 100FPE, check out some of Dyotat100’s posts he has been getting some serious FPE with the slugs.
Check out this topic for a bunch of testing data on the Surefire Slugs…
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yeah, af rifles are a love or hate thing. and believe you me, you WILL end up modding it, dont know too many who havent. at the very least you will get an itch to put in stainless grub screws or refinish those cheesy grips(the foregrip actually cleans up well). owning a stock one is like buying a giant roll of bubble wrap and not trying to pop any…