Q:

Need some guidance Replacing O ring.

First of all I want to thx John for sending me this new o-ring, I owe you big time brother! Ok my Ed .30 cal st. came shooting 670fps, to slow , also I noticed a big puff coming from the loading port, I read that some owners had the same problem and they fix it replacing the front o-ring, should I degas the rifle to remove the bolt and action, Also my hst adjuster is to hard, I can’t get it to move! To get a higher velocity should I turn it clockwise? Thanks in advance guys!!!!
I think I messed up some of the threads on the adjuster! 😳

EdGun

All Replies

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 25 total)

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quote Wingman NZ:

In that case the 30cal is more trouble than its worth.. send it to me and Ill dispose of it for you.. :whistle:

All right Wing, send me your address! 😀
Updates! Gun velocity 810fps, I can’t turn the HST more bc the gun won’t cock, I just placed an order for one of Ernest adjusters, it will be here in two weeks! 🙁
I haven’t changed the oring yet till my o-ring kit arrives, John sent some orings but I have to wait for the silicone grease that comes in the kit, that’s Wednesday! I guess I have to be patience 😎

In that case the 30cal is more trouble than its worth.. send it to me and Ill dispose of it for you.. :whistle:

+1

quote acourvil:

quote Wingman NZ:

again… no need to disassemble the gun at all.. just open the bolt, slip and tooth pick or a needle under the old rings and slip them off the probe, replace with new silicone greased o rings.. done..

Nope, that won’t work with the .30. There is not any clearance to slip the o-rings on to the probe. You do need to remove the breech and take the probe out.

quote Wingman NZ:

again… no need to disassemble the gun at all.. just open the bolt, slip and tooth pick or a needle under the old rings and slip them off the probe, replace with new silicone greased o rings.. done..

Nope, that won’t work with the .30. There is not any clearance to slip the o-rings on to the probe. You do need to remove the breech and take the probe out.

again… no need to disassemble the gun at all.. just open the bolt, slip and tooth pick or a needle under the old rings and slip them off the probe, replace with new silicone greased o rings.. done..

I need to replaced the 2 o rings from the bolt probe, to remove it I guess I have to remove the breech first right.
Thank you all for your replies!

quote Wingman NZ:

quote donnyfl:

No need to de-gas to change the o-ring in the breech.

Wow donny.. way to turn a 2 minute job into an all day job.. 😆
he was asking how to change the o rings on his 30 cal which is a single shot.. no need to disassemble the gun at all.. just open the bolt, slip and tooth pick under the old rings and slip them off the probe, replace with new silicone greased o rings.. done..

The R3M can be done without stripping the gun too.. just remove the rear breach and use a cut down 1.5mm Allen wrench to get at the grub screw. Use a snug fitting sharpened wooden dowel to remove the brass retaining bush once grub screw is loosened.

Thank you, that’s what I was trying to say earlier. There is no Oring in the breach of the 30 cal or any other single shot. Your going to to have this guy pulling his hair out tiring to find stuff in his gun.

Screw all you haters! I like taking the scenic route! Brandon that’s not me in the video. Brant was correct with it being firecracker.

quote donnyfl:

No need to de-gas to change the o-ring in the breech. This is what I do.

1. Remove your shroud
2. Loosen the two front breech screws. Maybe 1 full turn on each
2. Make sure your gun is not loaded
3. Cock the gun fully back
4. Line up the holes in the bolt lever with the two screws in the back of the breech
5. Remove the screws and push the bolt back in
6. hold on to the rear of the breech and lightly wiggle it off, when you pull it off, angle the back slightly up as well, to avoid hitting the hammer.
7. Once breech is off, un-cock the gun. Place your index finger on the hammer holding it back, then pull the trigger. The hammer will move forward. Keep guiding it forward until it is at rest.
8. Turn the gun upside down and remove the trigger guard and the stock.
9. Unscrew the two screws at the front of the trigger assembly.
10. Unscrew the air gauge cover
11. now the weaver rail unit should slide off the barrel easily
12. Unscrew the two screws holding the front breech(the thing the barrel is screwed into)
13. Remove the grub screw under the front breech
14. if the gold cap doesn’t come off easily, you will need to remove the barrel.
15. If the gold cap comes off easily, then replace the o-ring and do the reverse to put the gun together.
16. If you need to take off the barrel. I put the front breech in a vise, then place a towel over the barrel and use a vise grip to remove the barrel. You just need it to loosen, then do the rest by hand.

scroll down to my post on how to remove the gold piece: http://www.talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=28653&start=60

This video helps to: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJuC8bpv0DM

Wow donny.. way to turn a 2 minute job into an all day job.. 😆
he was asking how to change the o rings on his 30 cal which is a single shot.. no need to disassemble the gun at all.. just open the bolt, slip and tooth pick under the old rings and slip them off the probe, replace with new silicone greased o rings.. done..

The R3M can be done without stripping the gun too.. just remove the rear breach and use a cut down 1.5mm Allen wrench to get at the grub screw. Use a snug fitting sharpened wooden dowel to remove the brass retaining bush once grub screw is loosened.

I would make them both the right size to seal it properly for good. There is a lot of air pressure with the 30s. :smilen:

quote renval:

quote SECoda:

For my Standard 30 cal the orings were simply the wrong size from the factory. I tried 5 or 6 before I found a size that was perfect for my gun. Also, some folks are reporting that the grooves in their bolt probe are two different sizes and they actually ended up using two different sized orings. In my case the two grooves are identically cut and the oring that works perfectly is a simply rubber (pretty soft) AS-008 SAE size you can get anywhere. From my personal experience I would not go harder than 70 dura. I guess they may wear faster than the 90s but I have nearly 1000 shots on them so far and they are sealing completely. There is a significant noise difference when they seal completely. The gun is now quieter than my Standard Matador .25. Your mileage may vary. 😉

Thanks Brant! I’m gonna work on it tonite, I was wondering if I should replace both o-rings, I saw some guys replacing the front one only. I guess I will find out once I get the bolt out and do some testing.

I thought it was Donny!!! 😀

quote SECoda:

For my Standard 30 cal the orings were simply the wrong size from the factory. I tried 5 or 6 before I found a size that was perfect for my gun. Also, some folks are reporting that the grooves in their bolt probe are two different sizes and they actually ended up using two different sized orings. In my case the two grooves are identically cut and the oring that works perfectly is a simply rubber (pretty soft) AS-008 SAE size you can get anywhere. From my personal experience I would not go harder than 70 dura. I guess they may wear faster than the 90s but I have nearly 1000 shots on them so far and they are sealing completely. There is a significant noise difference when they seal completely. The gun is now quieter than my Standard Matador .25. Your mileage may vary. 😉

Thanks Brant! I’m gonna work on it tonite, I was wondering if I should replace both o-rings, I saw some guys replacing the front one only. I guess I will find out once I get the bolt out and do some testing.

I think that is Firecracker in the video. 😎

quote donnyfl:

No need to de-gas to change the o-ring in the breech. This is what I do.

1. Remove your shroud
2. Loosen the two front breech screws. Maybe 1 full turn on each
2. Make sure your gun is not loaded
3. Cock the gun fully back
4. Line up the holes in the bolt lever with the two screws in the back of the breech
5. Remove the screws and push the bolt back in
6. hold on to the rear of the breech and lightly wiggle it off, when you pull it off, angle the back slightly up as well, to avoid hitting the hammer.
7. Once breech is off, un-cock the gun. Place your index finger on the hammer holding it back, then pull the trigger. The hammer will move forward. Keep guiding it forward until it is at rest.
8. Turn the gun upside down and remove the trigger guard and the stock.
9. Unscrew the two screws at the front of the trigger assembly.
10. Unscrew the air gauge cover
11. now the weaver rail unit should slide off the barrel easily
12. Unscrew the two screws holding the front breech(the thing the barrel is screwed into)
13. Remove the grub screw under the front breech
14. if the gold cap doesn’t come off easily, you will need to remove the barrel.
15. If the gold cap comes off easily, then replace the o-ring and do the reverse to put the gun together.
16. If you need to take off the barrel. I put the front breech in a vise, then place a towel over the barrel and use a vise grip to remove the barrel. You just need it to loosen, then do the rest by hand.

scroll down to my post on how to remove the gold piece: http://www.talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=28653&start=60

This video helps to: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJuC8bpv0DM

That was an awesome vid Donny! You should talk to Ed, you might be the guy for the videos he wants to make! :8:

quote qpush:

Regarding the hard-to-turn (with possibly damaged threads) HST adjuster, did you losen the small screw keeping the adjuster in place before working on it?

Screw in exact center of image:

I myself hadnt noticed that screw when I first got my matador and I ended up moving it with force, damaging the adjuster, which snapped some week later and caused further damages on other moving parts.

Q

I should’ve tried that first right! 😉 thank you!

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