New Condor…Chrony Readings
Fill : 2500 PSI
Stock Condor : 18″
Pellet : Beeman Kodiak 21gr
P/W : 4/10
After 200 test shots and four hours of homework got the curve.
978.8 -1
981.1 -2
979.1 -3
970 -4
976.3 -5
981.9 -6
980.7 -7
980.4 -8
986.6 -9
981.1 -10
980.7 -11
983.1 -12
982.5 -13
981.4 -14
976.9 -15
973.5 -16
968.1 -17
974 -18
970 -19
969.6 -20
That’s the exact number of pellets I would carry on a day out.
I wouldn’t bother about a spare tank !!! :15
If I don’t get any….. then I don’t deserve a condor…… 😈
Cheers and happy safe shooting……… :4
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Oops,
Sorry pramodsid. I should have used a quote feature instead of my memory.
I’ve gone thru 3 tins of EJ’s but still didn’t get a good enough string. As soon as I get a replacement AF pump I’ll be shooting with a big supply of Kodiaks and Baracudas. Hopefully I can use your method then.
By the way, you said in shooting a string of 5 you would check the spread between two shots. Was that the MAX and MIN of the 5, the closest two or something else?
Hey Lurker you made me sic its pramodsid….. 🙂
Let me know if you need any help…..At times I don’t get an alert for a post on my topic…then just shoot me a PM….
I will do my best to help you……….
synopsys : I did have a heartly laugh about how things can go wrong when abbreviations are used…. 😀
I rated it with PRIORITY so the thumb wheel gets to stand first 😉
I always write it hex bolt head location first, then thumb-wheel setting number second. 😉
HARRY & pramodsid,
I think that a lot of AF condors ZERO with the, that is with the thumb wheel turned all the way down, with the thumb wheel on “10”. Then with one full revolution of the thumb wheel the indicator hex screw lines up, more or less with the “1” on the horizontal scale. The setting number with one full revolution from zero would indicate “1/10”. One on eht horizontal scale with the thumb wheel showing ten.
Are others set any different from the factory?
pramodsid,
Excellent explanation of your setting proceedure. When I get my AF pump back, or another replacement, I’ll give your method a try. I was shooting at 100 yards with EJ’s and got about a 6″ group on a breezy day. Lately most of the good days have been gusty here in NW Ohio.
Hey Harry,
Those are the sub numbers on the Power wheel : the horizontals and verticals you got it right.
it goes 1/1 1/2 1/3 1/4 1/5 1/6 1/7 1/8 1/9 1/10 1/11 1/12 1/13 1/14 1/15 1/16 and then
2/1 2/2 2/3 2/4 2/5 2/6 and on……….
As far as my testing was concerned the verticals are equally important for finding the sweet spot.
I am low on pellets, caus its very expensive to get it to this part of the country so didn’t record further …….
When I do so will surely pass on the info to you…..
When I was done with the 20 shot string the pressure gauge read around 2150 PSI so that makes 17.5psi for each shot.
Wow, if you didn’t touch the top hat, then yours came set perfectly from the factory.
What is <5/8, <5/6, <5/4, etc? I don’t understand what these #’s indicate. Not sure I ‘ve seen this before. Are you talking about the Power position (horizontal) and the other #’s vertically next to the wheel? Most people here say not to pay attention to those vertical #’s, because they are inconsistent if you try and go back to an older setting.. So I always go by the position of the spring – the horizontal #’s. Maybe I should be paying attention to both. In any case I ‘m curious how the #’s were after the 20-shot string. How many fps was the drop between each shot, from the 21st down to shot 35?
I didn’t change anytime on the Top Hat.
Just checked to ensue the hex screw that hold it is snug.
Then started shooting with 2600 PSI and P/W 6
and then started moving backward………with the PW 6 then at <5/10 then at <5/8 then at <5/6 then at <5/4 and so on………
At this time I would just fire 5 shots each to check the gap in fps between 2 shots.
If the gap is larger then just reduce the P/W and fire 5 more shots ….and keep testing….
Mine went on for 4-6 hours …as I don’t have a scuba……so by now my biceps were like 18″ 😆
One you get the point where the gap is the least …..jump fill the tank to a 100 psi more than what its is and test the string ..now without touching the Power wheel…..till you get the Perfect Fill….(Stay within 2400PSI to 2600 while Testing)
Most of you must get the best between 2400 and 2600…..with a Standard Condor.
These are my test results and may contradict with the Pro’s in this forum….
Happy Safe Shooting…..
Any more questions or doughts on the above formula just shoot a message……
Thumb rule : Do one change at a time……
Either the P/W or the tank fill PSI……
Too many changes ….slows down the speed at which you would conclude your tests…….
Holy cow. How did you do that? That’s the most consistent 20-shot string I have ever seen. You hardly lose any power at all! Good job? So what did it take? Just tinkering with the top hat and PW?
I rarely go over 2500psi with the .22 myself, and discovered the gun shoots more consistent that way, especially from 2300 down to 2k.
That string is right on the money.
You cant ask for better.
test
WOW!!!
Looks good!
Mike
🙂
that’s more like a 100 m.p.h fastball, not a curve! Very nice!
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Ohh no ….
It goes like this for the 5 shot string….
Generally after a fill from the hand pump , I discard the readings of the first shot.
Then for the 2nd shot I get 975 fps…
for the 3rd 950 fps…
for the fourth 930 fps….
and for the 5th I get 950 fps….
Now if you see there is too much gap of fps amongst each shot…I wouldn’t want to have it that way….
When doing the test the fps gap between each shot must be the closest….
I would like to have it not more than 5 fps between each shot…
Now is when you play with the Power Wheel…keep adjusting till you get there…
Lot of patience but in the end ….you have it all….
Start from Power wheel 6 and move backwards….5/16……5/14…..5/11….5/8…….5/5…….5/3…….5/1…….5……..4/15………and on….