New Condor owner
Just joined this group last week and my Condor arrived today!!! Used model but in excellent shape…
Quick questions:
1. What is the hammer slap mod? Do you fabricate your own or does everyone just buy them from somewhere?
2. If you are building your gun up, does it matter if you use a Condor frame or TSS frame? Same thing?
3. I thought we were going to hassle Dirty Harry some more… just spoke with him on the phone a few days ago and he sounds pretty relaxed, which means you guys aren’t doing your jobs!
4. When you cock the hammer and bring the breech back down, must you always push it over to the side to lock in one of those detents on left or right? Can you just fire it from the center position?
5. My gun came with the airhog shroud… it’s pretty effective. For all you old timers, everything else being the same, how does the Airhog shroud compare to the Tony 12″ shroud? nearly the same? Or one definitely better than the other?
No time to do chrony work, I’m too busy playing with it… but at zero power (lowest position on PW) I get 840fps with .22 Meisterkuglns, the heaviest pellets I have. Is that about right? I tried to go up a bit but it went supersonic.
aloha,
walt
All Replies
Viewing 7 replies - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
I think TT shrouds are well worth extra $25-30. They are made from aluminum, they are bigger, nicer, you can have a fluted model, they look more professional, and, most importantly, these mods are more effective.
I have shot both shrouds and to my ear the TalonTunes shroud is definitely quieter but both are good. The Airhog definitely has more of a metallic “ping” to it when fired.
As visible differences between them, the airhog shroud fits snugly around the barrel, like a barrel bushing, so does not make use of the airspace in the frame. the TT shroud is fitted to the frame but with a larger ID so the airspace within the frame is still utilized. Also, the AH appears to have only 3 baffles wheras the one I got from Tony has 5-6.
You remove the foam, and there should be an allen screw underneath that you can insert an allen wrench into to get the required leverage to remove it.
But you have to remove the barrel, hammer, spring OR the threaded ring that the bottle screws into. Personal preference on which you do. I prefer the barrel but only because I epoxied my bottle collar into the frame because it was starting to shift.
8. Okay, I give up…. how do you take off the breech? I tried to twist (unscrew) the cocking handle but it won’t unscrew… I saw Adam’s schematic post; is the foam part pulled off and then the handle just pushed down?
Thanks, Bikini. I have thought of that same mod to the hammer… but was afraid it would cushion the blow from the hammer and affect performance. Is there a noticeable difference in performance/velocity?
6. Just disassembled my gun partially and removed the barrel to inspect it. This is a heavy barrel and to change it to 308 or 9mm obviously will require a different breech fit up to the barrel. I haven’t taken the hammer out yet so can’t see if I have to make another hammer for it as well. For those of you who have done conversions to different calibers, how much wall thickness do you leave around the breech area in the barrel? Any thickness ok as long as the O rings in the breech fit up snug to seal airtight?
7. Does the bevel (angle) cut into the barrel near the breech where it goes from full thickness to a thin stem to fit into the breech have to be that same angle when you make up a new barrel?
1. http://talontunes.com/id16.html
2. They are identical except for the condor frame has a longer scope rail.
4. I sometimes forget to put it over to the side and nothing has happened yet 8)
Viewing 7 replies - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
Doh! Thanks guys, you are a great help. Just took off the bolt handle… didn’t occur to me to take off the rubberized cap, it looked permanently bonded but came off easily enough. Once off the allen bolt is right there.
When the AH shroud came off I saw that the mounting bushing was a tight fit around the barrel; I suppose they did this for accuracy, but yes, it does block off the airspace inside the barrel housing, so it’s wasted. I plan on building a new shroud, though. When looking inside the AH shroud, there appears to be 5 baffles not including the front cap. The front has 4 internal plain baffles closely spaced, and there is a 5th blast baffle of an odd shape. It is very big mouthed and shaped more like a rounded off square, with the 4 corners bonded to the shroud sides (not pointy corners, they have been rounded off a bit) but the sides are flattened, so air can pass around the circumference forward. No denying to works though.