Q:

New Condor ss .25 power wheel adjusting backwards

Hi Folks, I’ve read quite a bit here but not posted. Hope you all can help me with this one. I’m new to AF guns but not PCPs. I’ve done a fair bit of AG tuning but just got my first AF, a Condor SS in .25. Here’s what’s happening. I get no bell curve or plateau at any power setting only fairly straight line descending velocities that don’t give me any 10 consecutive shots that would be much good for long range hunting. My velocities are consistently and predictably HIGHER the LOWER I set the power wheel. For example, here are samples from the 2700 psi shot from four shot strings at power levels 2,6,9,12: 2=934 fps, 6=907 fps, 9=846 fps, 12=816 fps. Is that normal? This was with Kodiak 31gr. Top hat is tight and does not appear to have moved from the factory. Gap is .102. It is a spinloc tank. There is a .117 gap between the breach and the spin lock nut and I see no signs of contact there. Any Ideas? Thanks in advance.

Airforce Rifles/Pistols

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Viewing 6 replies - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)

Thanks, i’m gonna try it. Unfortunately now i deed to wait on more pellets.

I think imott had it right when he suggested you close up the top hat some. Most folks run it in the .070 to .1 range to get the best efficiency. This is measured from the bottom of the top hat to the top of the brass valve face. Calipers or feeler gauges will work. More than this and the valve is typically open well after the pellet leaves the muzzle. Make sure the set screws are tightened back properly or the top hat will move up and down from the vibration. Hope it helps.

Thanks for the comments guys. After some more thinking and testing I think you are right about being on the back side of the curve and the valve bouncing. I did another string at 0 power setting (had only gone as low as 2) and got a bell curve with about 10 shots within 15 fps of the peek of 960 fps. I added an o-ring behind the TH and that gave me an even better plateau of about 16 shots at 915-25 fps. Here’s what I think so far. The pressure gauge shows about 200 psi high as compared to the pump and the Royale. so, I’m willing to fill a little high on the pressure. That is in part why I was starting on the downward side of the power curve even at setting 2 from a 3000 psi fill. At any setting above zero, the valve seems to opening so forcefully that it is bouncing back closed resulting in increasingly shorter valve-open times as the power wheel is increased. I feel like the hammer and/or spring is just too heavy. Accuracy is nothing to brag about. At 50 yds in the 950 range I get about 1.5 inches and about 1 inch at best with the oring bringing it down to 925 fps. At 100 yds and dead calm it’s more like 6 inches. I’d really like to either get the Kodiaks down to the high 800’s or go to a heavier pellet. Any advice on heavier pellet options or a way to slow it down? It would be really nice to be able to use power wheel at something more than zero.

You may want to try filling to a higher pressure like 3000 psi. The tank on a Condor is large enough that under that sort of pressure you don’t have enough air for there to be a bell curve. As we all know air is compressible and therefore at the higher pressure the air density increases as well. I get more shots per 100 psi drop from 3000 to 2900 than from say 2500 to 2400. There is also the pressure on the back side of the valve that is trying to close it in conjunction with the spring so the dwell time on the valve opening should be shorter. It’s not really working backwards it just that the engineering specifications are for 3000 to 3100 psi fill on the bottle and 2700 would seam to be the start of the down side of the curve.

As far as the velocities running inversely to the PW settings, that’s a little harder to explain if you start from 2700 psi for each attempt. It could be that you are getting valve rebound from the higher PW settings when there isn’t enough pressure inside the bottle to slow the unseating of the valve and therefore it rebounds and closes earlier than when more lightly struck. But that is just conjecture on my part.

i think i’m having the same issues your having. read this http://www.talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=27440
to me the gun is working backwards and if you did’nt have a chrony you would be wondering why your poi keeps changing.

Close up the top hat. It seems as if you might be losing air on each shot. You might be seeing the downside of your bell curve.

Viewing 6 replies - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)

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