New Design Angled and Rifled Valve
OK,
I got one for all you guys to check out a new design all together of my rifled stem. This time I have a different design on the valve housing also…
I took an old used messed up blod valve that never was going to work for me. ID of the stem was not going to allow enough flow to do much, least of all make the .25 caliber come alive LOL… So, I gut the housing, toss the stem and all its pieces in the scrap box and I didn’t ever look back LOL…
Chewed out the center bore of the housing to a long slow tapper. Smaller end at the tophat with a .292″ and the larger end at the seat of .440″… Still using the recessed tophat socket with O-Ring seal… That seemed to work well and I actually liked the design of it.
The stem has an OD of .388″ and the ID of .264″… I ported the stem with 3- rifled and angled finger ports that are .150-.160″… The finger ports are actually angled and rifled through the stem and the seat I made and threaded inside the stem just so that I could get more of the affect from the way I cut the finger ports on the inside. I am looking for a jet affect from the smaller angled and rifled holes, the three together all rolled into the .264″ ID stem…
The tophat I have on the stem is threaded with a 27 TPI pitch which is about as fine a thread I had handy this afternoon when I decided to see if I could chew this all out LOL… I have a little more work on the tophat to do just yet, but I got to get me some stock to chew with in order to finish.
I have the maximum valve opening of .140″ which I am sure it will be more than I can use affectively… That is where I am going to start at as well LOL… I sure hope that doesn’t leave any stale air in the barrel
Here is some art work of all the rough chewing I did to get this all hacked out this afternoon. Its rough so you guys don’t look real close at all that and pay more attention to the design I am using… If this was to work up to anything I would like, it will be taken to the machine shop and I hope I can get the guys to turn me one out. Thats along way off at this point though, heck all the turbulence I get from the angled and rifled finger ports may have the air coming out and through the ports and then backing back down into the tank
Heck who knows, it may actually suck the pellet into the tank
All kidding asside, let me hear what all you guys think of this change in direction please…
Here is a look/see:
Top Hat end of the valve assembly now:
Thats it for now, maybe a little more Monday…
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Viewing 8 replies - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
Took everything down and cleaned and polised up good. Made me a new rifle bolt handle from some stainless then I flamed it up nice to about the color of brass LOL… Looks pretty good by the bronze polised hammers I have… New handle works really nice in the side cocker of mine…
Here is some art to look at. Next will be to see if I can get my tanks filled so that I can have full air pressure… Then see if I can knock the big valve stem I made open LOL…
Here you can see I am not using the Powerwheel… You can see the polished barrel easy enough
I got the standard valve and the really stiff spring LOL… Monster spring LOL… They are a really neat looking design and all, I just couldn’t get that much out of mine though.
Matter of fact I get more from my hotrodded Condor Hy/Flow, than the Blod… Didn’t matter which spring either…
I am going to see if I can knock the big stem I have made here, open…
I have got to get me some new battery’s for my scales also, so I can weigh my hammers I have.
Really, no luck with blod valve huh. Was is standard blod valve or bigbore? I have made 144 fpe with standard blod valve in my .25. I have always made more power with it than a condor valve. You can try it and see, maybe I’m wrong. I know the bigbore blod valve came with this .085″ spring which is really stiff compared to stock. Let us know.
D100,
That is the very reason I posted this and asked, thanks dude… I was wondering that very thing and why it doesn’t have a return spring at all LOL… I can certainly understand why it wouldn’t open also…
Now I guess I will need to rework this sucker somewhat… Start with a flanged bushing to work the housing over a little and start from there…
I sure don’t like the idea of a big honkin’ hammer spring LOL… I got those and messed around with them already and didn’t care for that at all.
I just didn’t get anywhere with the Blod valve as it was. It was pretty much low suck when it came to the performance that it was sold to me on LOL… So I didn’t loose much…
I will re-group and start over
FI,
should be, if i understand, the pressure in the tank times the area of the orifice(where the seal contacts its seat)
something to that effect, factor in the return spring, if any, as well
Has anyone a way to calculate how much force is required to actuate standard/juiced AF poppet valve designs?
I’d be interested in throwing some tears, sweat and humiliation at attempting a cam-driven poppet valve.
I don’t think you will be able to open that valve with that big of a hole. I have been messing with valves and I made a blod valve type with larger stem and could not open it at 3000 psi fill. Fps peeked at 2300 psi with 6 rings going 860 fps. I haven’t tried since I put in my 108 gr hammer. I had a 100 gr and a stiffer spring before. There’s a reason the bigbore blod valve has a small opening where the stem seal seals then the stem it’s self.
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I am going to put my larger stem on hold since I see all the really good stuff that Doug is doing, in hopes he will sell me a couple of things LOL…
Dang stuff he is doing is really good looking stuff, actually turned out and true, not chewed as I have to do here LOL…
Awesome stuff D100