Q:

New Tank and Regulator Woes

Why? I don’t know, but I ended up buying a “Condor” tank and regulator setup from an online “manufacturer” a few weeks ago. It consists of a 53 CI tank with a 3K/2K regulator.

RANT START
After zero communication, I received the tank + regulator, no instructions no nothing.

The guy didn’t have enough fore thought to realize that the shoulder of this tank is very thick and you can’t screw on the regulator with it’s gauge installed. So I had to go by a 45* elbow fitting to allow the regulator to shoulder up with the tank. Also had to buy a better gauge as the cheapo chinese POS that was on there had its front lens badly cracked from a shoddy install job.

RANT OVER

Anywhoo, now that I can actually assemble the thing is there anything I need to apply to the regulator threads, or lubes applied before I tighten it up and put pressure in the tank? I’m guessing that as tight as a strap wrench can allow is good enough when it comes to tightening it down?

I think I might get rid of the aluminum tank and get a paintball CF HPA tank. I found a place online that is selling new tanks naked (no regulator). What do you guys think?

I know one thing is for sure I’m not buying anything else from the site again. They are no where near “the best in the industry”. Same chineese cackaa that you get at paintball shops anywhere.

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Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)

Well, I wrapped a small amount of telflon tape on the npt threads of the elbow fitting and gauge and tightend everything down. I filled the tank from my 44 CF and it dag near drained it! It topped it off with my 88 and it seems to work OK, it clicked during intial fill up and again at 2000 ish psi. Ill use it this weekend and see how it does. I will definately be buying a CF paintball cycliner, I can save almost a pound by doing so and increase my volume to boot.

Well, the good news is that the gauge probably indicates the pressure remaining in the tank and can thus be calibrated against a known good gauge. Right? I might be assuming as I expect the output is a fixed value in this application.

I lioke fortune cookies! Just not lead in my baby snacks…

Thanks for the construction help.

The box was not damaged at all. The gauge was cracked during tightening I am sure of it. I’ve sent emails and have had no response. To be honest I just don’t have the patientce or the time to mess with these questionable retailers that seem to be very common in this industry. I have had many dealings with some super folks, this just happened to be a bad experience. Take it with a grain of salt.

I am sure the regulator will do its job if not I’ll get it to.

As far as getting something other than chineese POS’s. I don’t know, thats the $64,000,000 question. Ill just buy them from the paintball places, thats all. The MYth one looks like it is much shorter than the usual design so I might give them a try.

http://www.made-in-china.com/showroom/amychen/product-detailCebQLPFVbmRD/China-Paintball-Regulator-WK-PV-.html

Hell, you can even get 100 of them shipped to your door from our friends in china with the 3K in 2K out setup. I wonder if they’ll include some fortune cookies 😆

quote Jerry:

Now Walter, I do have a couple of nice gauges, one US made and one German…there are alternatives, for a price. Oh, they are both 2″ gauges so I can’t really comment on the 1″ gauge supplied…

That’s my point!I doubt there exists a 1″ gauge from anywhere but China

Now Walter, I do have a couple of nice gauges, one US made and one German…there are alternatives, for a price. Oh, they are both 2″ gauges so I can’t really comment on the 1″ gauge supplied…

quote TexasB:

Why? I don’t know, but I ended up buying a “Condor” tank and regulator setup from an online “manufacturer” a few weeks ago. It consists of a 53 CI tank with a 3K/2K regulator.

RANT START
After zero communication, I received the tank + regulator, no instructions no nothing.

The guy didn’t have enough fore thought to realize that the shoulder of this tank is very thick and you can’t screw on the regulator with it’s gauge installed. So I had to go by a 45* elbow fitting to allow the regulator to shoulder up with the tank. Also had to buy a better gauge as the cheapo chinese POS that was on there had its front lens badly cracked from a shoddy install job.

RANT OVER

Anywhoo, now that I can actually assemble the thing is there anything I need to apply to the regulator threads, or lubes applied before I tighten it up and put pressure in the tank? I’m guessing that as tight as a strap wrench can allow is good enough when it comes to tightening it down?

I think I might get rid of the aluminum tank and get a paintball CF HPA tank. I found a place online that is selling new tanks naked (no regulator). What do you guys think?

I know one thing is for sure I’m not buying anything else from the site again. They are no where near “the best in the industry”. Same chineese cackaa that you get at paintball shops anywhere.

Get a replacement from JDS. Was the box for the reg damaged?
Assemble good and hand tite is all that is required. Once you air it up that reg won’t turn. Assemble dry or at most a bit of divers silicone on the oring so it won’t bunch up is all that is required.

Give the vendor a chance to make it right.
Good luck

Walter….

oh yes, where exactly would you suggest buying anything better than this cheap POS Chinese stuff?

Very interesting. The picture on the site shows the whole thing assembled but you apparently got separate parts that didn’t fit together and a damaged gage too. Have you talked to the supplier? Maybe you were sent the wrong regulator?

Is there a foster fitting to fill the tank with? The picture shows something with a yellow cover that might be a fill fitting but I can’t be sure. If the regulator and tank can stay together at all times, you might be good with locktite blue between them.

Maybe someone else here has better info?

Sure, scroll all the way to the bottom, thats the tank/regulator I got. Its an aluminuim tank with 5/8-18UNF-2B threads.

http://jdsairman.com/TanksRegs.html

You might want to post some pictures or identifying info so the members here can avoid or at least anticipate the same issues.

As far as applying stuff to the threads, usually, HP connections have orings that do the sealing and no thread treatment is required or desired. It’s hard to tell without specifics or pictures though.

Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)

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