Q:

newbie, problem sighting in!

Hi guys! i am not really new cause i have have been lurking here for a while reading up on the condor’s. I finalyy purchased one several days ago and absolutly fell in love with the gun after firing it a full power!
Today my scope came in from Cabelas, a 3x9x32 Simmons scope made for the .22 mag caliber rimfires. I bought the scope as a temp until i can get my other firearm back and try the leupold that i already have on it. today while sighting in at 10 yards i noticed that the bullets would hit consistently 1″ below the bulseye. I already have the knob dialed all the way up but cant get the gun to hit any higher. The scope came with some rings although i am not sure what height they are made at. Can anyone tell me what i need to get so that i can get the gun sighted in? thanks bro’s

Optics/Nightvision

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Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 16 total)

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Take a look at the Beeman 5039 adjustable scope mount and wave bye-bye to the hassle of shims.

Optically center your scope, then slap it on the mount. Use the adjustability of the mount to get your shots close, then use your W/E adjustment to get yourself dead center.

The best thing about the Beeman is that you don’t have to remove the scope from the rings to adjust it. Once the scope is in the rings, all adjustment happens down below in the base. Piece of cake.

The Beeman makes it really really easy. Can’t say enough about it, it’ll be the last scope mount you buy.

I just installed 30mm Burris Signature rings and just so you know they only come with the +10 inserts. They don’t have the insert kits for the 30mm yet that have the different sizes.

I had to shim the rear insert to make sure I had room to click up and I’m siting in at 75 yards. They make the insert kits for the 1″ rings so if you have that size scope your in luck.

Overall they are a nice set of rings and installed them on the RWS weaver base but shimmed that also due to a lot of slop in the fit of the rail adapter.

Hope this helps,
Glenn

Yes.

When you have run out of clicks on the elevation knob before the pellet strikes where you want it to at 10 yards, you definitely need an adjustable scope mount. The scope can be returned to the center of its adjustment range and all necessary windage and elevation adjustments will be provided by the scope mount.

Out of the two you posted from Pyramyd, I would go with the taller mount as it will allow your head posture to remain more upright while you are aiming.

Don’t completely rule out the Burris Signature rings I posted about earlier – they are very nice option with excellent construction.

I can’t say for sure since I have used neither. If I were going to be chosing one I would go for the B-Square 17101…the second link you listed.

One thing I do on every scope I mount on any (air, rimfire or centerfire) rifle is use Loc-Tite blue very sparingly on all screws…bases and rings. This will be especially beneficial for springers. Make sure you get all the screws very clean with acetone (if you have a wife or girlfriend they may have some for their nail foo-foo stuff). Second, make sure that the clamps of your base and the grooves of your rifle are very clean as well. Use a scope stop if you have one for your springer, and just like your scope screws, clamps, etc make sure all are clean and use Loc-Tite very very sparingly.

Tighten all screws down good and snug (but not too tight so you don’t strip any threads) and after that you shouldn’t need to bother them again.

Hope this helps you out. Good shooting.

do you think a scope adjustable mount be the ticket for what i need to adjust for the additional elevation versus a drooper?

http://www.pyramydair.com/cgi-bin/accessory.pl?accessory_id=454

http://www.pyramydair.com/cgi-bin/accessory.pl?accessory_id=360

i was looking at those 2. let me know. thanks bro’s

I have all mine shimmed up you are right its like 70 clicks and you’re finnally on target when going from light to heavy.

Hi guys! o.k. i tried using a different scope a 3x9x50 with 1/4″ adjustments. i figured maybe i would get better results but it come out exactly the same. Some of the replys suggested lower rings and some replied to get a 1″ adjustable rings which i presume is higher then what i currently have. which one will give me the results i am looking for? i was thinking of mounting a laser, but i like to keep the looks of the gun as simple and as light as possible. so will a higher or lower scope mount be the solution? thanks bro’s

One thing I have found out is that with the distances at which air rifles are used (10-50+ yards) you really need to consider what “click” value you want in your windage/elevation adjustments.

Consider this, if you are using a scope with 1/8 minute clicks, at 25 yards each click will only move the POI 1/32 inch!!! Unless you are using a scope with a 30mm tube you are going to run out of clicks before you can get it POI to match POA, that is unless you are using a base or rings that have some downward angel to help compensate for this.

From my research, most “airgun” scopes being sold have 1/8 MOA clicks…makes no sense to me for air rifles. If you are shooting cartridge rifles at longer distances this would allow one to really “dial-in” for POI to exactly match POA.
For airguns 1/4 MOA clicks would be better, but then again, 1/2 MOA clicks would be even better than that since at a range of 25 yards your click value would be 1/8 MOA….more like airgun shooting if you ask me.

Just some observations and stuff thot I’d pass along. Hope this might help some guys decide on their scope choices. :8

quote rctk1:

I would really like to shoot under 10 yards if possible for those late night occasions when pests are really close. Do you think upgrading to a better scope with more adjustments “using the same rings” be a better alternative? if so, what scope “under $200.00” preferably from cabelas would you folks recommend? thanks bro’s

Adjustable rings would be a cheaper alternative vs. a new scope, you might want to order a Burris Signature set with the pos-align inserts to offset your zeroing issues.

http://www.swfa.com/pc-1259-171-burris-signature-22-1-rings.aspx

http://www.swfa.com/pc-1807-332-burris-signature-pos-align-offset-insert-kit.aspx

Yeah, I think you’re too close!

Do you have the Airforce DVD? If not, check it at the Quick Ref section, there ‘s a topic with links and you can see Tom Gaylord zeroing a scope. In this video it’s explained why it’s happening.

To zero your scope at this distance I guess you’ll need a different scope mount (with a LOT of elevation adjustment).

You may consider to use a laser sight… it’s really fun to use!

At home I got only 12 meters to shoot… I just paint a dot above the center of the target, or aim with the mil dots.

how about sight in for 20yd with the scope and add a laser for the dark close up stuff, as it will be difficult to see through the scope without illumination anyway.

I would really like to shoot under 10 yards if possible for those late night occasions when pests are really close. Do you think upgrading to a better scope with more adjustments “using the same rings” be a better alternative? if so, what scope “under $200.00” preferably from cabelas would you folks recommend? thanks bro’s

I had no problem zeroing at 10 yards, and at 20, my scope is almost centered. I think you have something else going on.[/i]

Is there enough air pressure in the tank?

Yep, like he said. It’s really close. Easiest thing to do at that range, is remember what dot under it it hits at. Then just aim for that.

I’d suggest a 20 or even better 30 yards sight in with a condor. You’re low hitting problem should be fixed by that.

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