normal to have play between the charging handle & frame?
I been having a few weak shots every now and then and noticed that the charging handle is kinda denting the frame alittle where it locks in. Theres a small amount of play after I cock and lock it. I tried wrapping some electrical tape around the charging handle shaft just so it wouldnt be metal to metal contact with the frame. While shooting the charging handle also rotates back to the 12 oclock position. Is this normal? Its a pain trying to keep a finger on the charging handle while shooting so it doesnt move anywhere.
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My gun didn’t come with a plastic tube. It came with a metal collar. I made acetal spacer and it holds up pretty good.
I you could make the knotch bigger it helps a lot also.
Yes, I tore it all down, cleaned and debured. Heck, dad left me his old drill press so I vented the front bushing and placed two holes in the frame.
I should have made my self clear but there never was the plastic tube over the knob post..ever. I would have seen that as my home made one eventually failed and came apart.
WK, glad to hear that having the tube has kept yours good. I guess i got the one they put the FNG on that day? LOL.
Thx
No that is not true.
If people do not lose the plastic tube covering the thread it will not happen.
My gun has thousands of rounds through it and has never had those grooves on the bolt.
Keep your bolt covered boys
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The gun is ruined, send it to me, I will pay the postage and bury it for you. đ
I am just that kind of guy, very helpful. đ
Yes, you need to knock down those burrs with a file, all these guns do this with use. I use swiss files from Harbor Freight for that.
New breeches are cheap, but keeping on top of the peening is imparative, and no your breech will work fine with those gouges, they are just unsightly.
Regards,
Roachcreek
Seacat,
Those gouges on your breech look terrible:!:
if you haven’t already, you should look up barrel removal so you can remove some burs from inside the frame in the breech area.I had to do mine and even had a bad burr at the forward end of the breech bolt slot. It knaws at the delrin on the hammer and causes all kinds of inconsistencies of velocity and even failure of the hammer latch as mine did.
File off the burrs,fine sand/polish the edges and very important,Clean out all the grit not letting it drop down into the trigger area. Your rifle will shoot better than new. Some kind of dry silicone lube inside the frame helps too. The ultimate job would be to polish the inside of the frame in the breech area but I haven’t gone that far myself, yet. The first time removing and installing the barrel and breech seems tricky but plan on eventually doing it a couple times and it becomes easy.
Hoot’s small oring on the breech knob sounds like a good solution if burrs are removed first.
Some adjust the top hat to take up the play and bounce of the breech knob but that can cause excessive air waste, erratic pellet path, and even loss of velocity depending on the pellet used.
Hey seacat,
The last pic of the breech shows some grooving on top. You might want to hit the frame with a file to knock down the burrs causing the grooves if you haven’t already.
..and hereâs mine.
I called Airforce, when I first noticed the damage. I was hoping that they would say â Hey send it in, weâll fix it no problemâ All I got was an offer to send me a plastic sleeve that âmust have fallen offâ. RightâŚ
I found a plastic sleeve of my own; an âOâ ring would have to have a grooved knob post to allow clearance on the frame. However damage continues, AF did finally send me a plastic rubber sleeve so Iâm now installing this.
Thanks to all the info from this site (not AF!) take down was very easy. In addition, my POI had begun to move all over the map. When I swabbed with Hoppâs lead remover, the patches were coming out black. After several patches the barrel was clean and the POI is back! Did I not read that the âbarrel should not need cleaningâ according to one of Gaylords posts?
If the AF sleeve allows damage, to frame, to continue then I would appreciate any ideas or links to a grooved knob if available. Leaving the knob centered is one idea but I find that I tend to bump and unseat from top hat at times. Did AF make a âgroovedâ post at one time?[/img]
The earlier AF had a small rubber ring there.
Unscrew the bolt, and roll a small O ring up there, and the problem should be solved. That particular damage is common, and easily smoothed up with a small file and some flat black touch up paint.
I’ve never heard of anyone having major long term problems with it.
Hoot
i recommend hitting up AF for a new sleeve for the bolt shaft(mine is steel, btw), gutting the action, and gently knocking off burrs around the slot with a file, or , preferably, a deburring tool and smooth her out with 600 grit. best i got, frame peening is still at this point an inevitability…
Also have you changed out the orings in the breech? Get the 90 duro ones it will keep the breech from being so loose.
There should be a plastic sleeve aropund the shaft of the cocking knob.
Play is due to top hat setting not being adjusted out far enough.
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Yeah mine never had one either, so I made a metal one.
RC