Q:

Okay all you AF Experts riddle me this!

So I keep hearing different things and what is best for accuracy and performance so lets hear some feedback as this is the place that knows all. 😀

I would like some feed back for my winter Condor build please:

1. Tophat, factory adjustable or after market 1 piece pros/cons-

2. Factory new valve or custom pros/cons-

3. Factory hammer spring or custom pros/cons-

4. Factory hammer with an extra wieght or a custom 1 piece pros/cons-

5. Barrel sliding or inside frame sliding hammer pros/cons-

Thanks looking forward to seeing what this collective chimes in with.

Newbie Randy 😎

General Chat

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Viewing 12 replies - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)

Sweet!!! 😀

…and work well they do………. Thanx Doug

It is oil filled nylon. It is sleaved all the way through.

The one for the .25/.257 is stainless with a handle screwed into it to cock it.

Very nice stuff there!

adjustable weight nice touch. Urethane sliders?

Yes they are longer but PW still works.

This one was for .308 and adjustable weight.

quote Dyotat100:

All my guns have barrel guided/riding hammers. I usually cut the barrel down to .600″ but don’t have to. The front of the hammer rides on the .309″ also so it is supported over the gap.

Look up barrel guide hammer on here and you will see how I started and kepted improving them.

My .25/.257 cocks with the barrel guided hammer and then you open the breech to put a bullet in.

Thanks, I’ll check that out.

BTW I think you mean the rear of the hammer and teh front would it stay on the barrel? So a longer than OEM hammer……

All my guns have barrel guided/riding hammers. I usually cut the barrel down to .600″ but don’t have to. The front of the hammer rides on the .309″ also so it is supported over the gap.

Look up barrel guide hammer on here and you will see how I started and kepted improving them.

My .25/.257 cocks with the barrel guided hammer and then you open the breech to put a bullet in.

Who you been hearing?

So curious how a hammer can ride the barrel?

5. There is no way to get a barrel riding hammer unless the barrel is reduced in diameter to allow a guide with a bore of 0.312″

As is there would be little difference whether the hammer is supported by the o.d. or i.d. at fully cocked position. Once fired the support goes away.

IMO a tube riding hammer would be best IF there was actually a need.

since when are you a newbie Randy 🙂

you’ve been around since before apples had orchards 😉

What are you going to shoot? JSBs, 7 rings. Makes a big difference.

JSBs I would go with a reg. 7 rings your going to need more than a condor valve can do without a transplant.

I think a barrel riding hammer is the only way to go. Not just because I make them. Solves some of the problem with inconsistent cocking and misfires with heavier springs. I have put a 15lb spring in my .308 and no problems cocking.

Spring all depends on what you are trying to shooting. Bigger valves require stiffer hammer springs and a heavier hammer to open.

I have a 858cc tank so power, consistancy, and shot count all will need to be considered as I am committed to .25. 😈

Randy

Randy,

Is your project gun gonna be a pea shooter or an airhog. R u going for conservative or all out horsepower?

Viewing 12 replies - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)

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