Pellet Trap
Finally built my pellet trap/lead collector. Have been shooting stumps and blocks of wood for to long. Got tired of the mess my .308 has been making. Now i will recycle all my test lead.
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It is 14″x14″x18″ deep. .308 doesn’t hit the back a 285 fpe. On Monday I will dig in it and let you know how far they are going in.
Dayotat,
How deep is it ❓
Is there much noise and do any actually hit the back. Or do you use a cushioned back plate ❓
I might as well be looking for a new steel box.
Rubber stops them easy. I built this to stop .308 and .451. Stops .308 easy.
There is 3 layers of card board that slides in the groves to hold back the rubber mulch. I have about 50 shots into it and no mess at all. All I do is tip it on it’s back to slide out the card board and change it out.
I did slide out the card board and rotated the 2 back pieces to off set the holes.
Going to do some .25 reg testing and will see how many shots I get before I have to replace the cardboard.
ssshooter,
Are you talking about the same thing that Dayotat is.? “RUBBER Bark”. I think it is shreaded rubber tires painted red for use as mulch. I imagine the paint could make a mess but it is available in colors and maybe without paint.
Before I switched to a duct seal trap for space reasons, I used a similar wood chip trap. You will find that you dont need much to stop a pellet but you will find trash collecting on the floor.
Try inserting a wooden layer, parrallel to the face, about half way in to the trap to hold the chips back. The void leading to the front cardboard becomes the trash collection space. Finally leave a little room to feed more wood chips above the wooden layer. The chips become powder over time and you’ll need to top it off every few thousand rounds.
It’s a good design, I put 20K rounds in to it with very little maintenance.
Used to use several layers of magazines in my wooden pellet trap. What a mess. I replaced the magazines with a piece of 1/8 inch sheet steel, and put a 6 inch piece of foam in front of the steel, and a couple inches of foam behind it to deaden the sound of the pellet slaping the steel. All the pellets mushroom on the steel and lodge themselves between the steel and foam. Periodically, i empty the pellets on to a plate, and blow away the chaff from the foam. Clean lead! 😀 i have a Talon SS, and use the trap for shooting between 10 and 30 yards. Those with hp Condors might need some thicker steel.
Friggin’ ingenious, but so is Doug. 😉
I’m in the process of having to build a new pellet trap as mine is all shot up and the duct seal has trapped about 30 pounds of lead making my trap about 45 pounds. 😯
I never thought to use something as simple as rubber chips. 😀 :thumb:
I’m on my way to Home Depot right now.
It’s rubber bark from home depot. Ground up tires painted red. $6.00 a bag.
Is that some sort of wood chips ❓
When I get my AAA .25 from TT I’ll probably put a hole through my Duct Seal trap and have to build something like yours Dyotat.
Lol this is funny I was in the process of making mine lol. I think every body needs one. Do you live in the uk? What I’m thinking of instead of having the internal metal follow the outer skin is funnel it to a center point then have a piece of box tubing at the back to collect the pellets in a nice pull out tray so I can sell the lead on. What u think?
Viewing 11 replies - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
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There is 3 layers of card board that slides in the groves to hold back the rubber mulch. I have about 50 shots into it and no mess at all. All I do is tip it on it’s back to slide out the card board and change it out.
I did slide out the card board and rotated the 2 back pieces to off set the holes.
Going to do some .25 reg testing and will see how many shots I get before I have to replace the cardboard.
In time you will need a void to capture the dust and trash. You have a great setup. Enjoy your new trap!