Picatinny rail on Edgun stock
I have a new to me R2.5 and am looking to add a picatinny rail to my Edgun Stock so i can use one of my Atlas bipods.
I did a search and it seems there are multiple methods that have been used, BT-17 rail, brownells stud, std rifle swivel stud. I have a blackhawk swivel stud rail attachment I have used on other rifles.
Anyone have any long term issues with any of these methods?
Any recommendations as to screw/drill hole placement on the Edgun stock? (I am slightly concerned about strength of the stock with those vents, also concerned about a screw poking through the thin stock areas.) Should the swivel be installed directly below the vertical wood rib?
thanks in advance,
L
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Viewing 11 replies - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
awesome feedback.
What type of wood is the Edgun stock? would a std 2×4 be about right, or get some pine blocks to practice on?
thanks guys.
Lars
Demp, would you say a 5/8″ screw would be perfect and not poke through the stock?
Meech, very nice work, did you have a drill press to do your work? I assume since those inserts are only 1/2″ long you didnt have any issue with poking through the stock.
thanks again,
lars
Hi,
I did use a drill press but I don’t think it is absolutely necessary. As long as you drive the inserts at perpendicular to the stock, you should be in good shape. Place the stock on the ground and bear down just a bit until the first few threads catch. From there, it is just a matter of screwing it in. The key is to keep the insert perpendicular.
The inserts do not poke through the forend slots. The inserts “bite” the wood and when you attach the rail and tighten the machine screws, it provides an upward force to further fasten the parts.
It you decide to go with this method, just make sure to practice on a scrap piece of wood to get the feel of it and to determine which bit to drill the pilot hole. I forgot what size it is but it should be about the same size or smaller than the insert shaft. I didn’t use wax, but it may be a good idea to apply a bit before driving the inserts in the wood.
Also, the ends of the inserts are different. The guy on the video make a suggestion but I don’t think it matters which side to start with. When your bearing down on the as you drive the insert in, make sure it is straight down or else you can slip and mess up your stock. I think that is why the guy uses a drill press.
All the other methods will work just as well. It just depends on how you want to do it.
thanks,
Gabe G.
I like Gabe G.’s post about the bolt inserts (above) a lot. Not having those at the time, I used simple wood screws BUT bedded the rail in JB Weld. That rail ain’t going nowhere!
The very tip of screw is all that I needed to remove appx 1/16″ . The rail is a good 1/8″ thick at screw hole so that takes up some of screw length. At buttstock end I used a 1″ long swivel stud as well for sling. If you’re only mounting bipod to front rail I would be comfortable with two 5/8″ screws personally. But I have sling attached to mine and hunt over rugged terrain. I want as much bite from screws as I can get.
Thanks for all the feedback guys. I really appreciate it.
Demp, would you say a 5/8″ screw would be perfect and not poke through the stock?
Meech, very nice work, did you have a drill press to do your work? I assume since those inserts are only 1/2″ long you didnt have any issue with poking through the stock.
thanks again,
lars
I used a 6″ picatinny accessory rail which is flat on back.
Used stainless #8 wood screws painted black head. Drilled pilot holes.
1″ screw up front which extends into front riser bridge in cutouts. 3/4″ screw with tip slightly ground off so it didn’t protrude through center of cutout opening. Little bit of wax on threads and torqued them in solid as can be.
Ha Ha 😀
Trust me Q, I made sure to practice on a scrap piece b4 I got the balls to cut into my edgun.
Thanks,
Gabe g
Like I said, a lot of nicer way of doing it then the way I did it…
That must have turned out really nice Gabe and thats the way I originally wanted to do it… in the end I went for the quick and dirty but one day… one day I’ll have those fancy inserts too.
I dont think I want to show you how I did it anymore… too damn embarrassed.
Q
Hi Lars,
Here is a pm I sent to a fellow member on how I attached a rail (BT34) onto my edgun stock:
hey Chewy,
I bought the insert at my local Do It Yourself hardware store but you can buy them from here:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2001048/2724/Brass-Threaded-Inserts-1024-10-pack.aspx
I bought the bolts at the hardware store. They are 10-24 and are about 3/4 inches long. They are the hex button head type.
Like these:
but black oxide finish
here’s a neat youtube video I found helpful
I have not had any problems and everything is secure.
Hope this helps you out,
Gabe G.
I attached a 1913 Rail (BT15) for my Atlas V8 (BT10-LW17) and so far so good. I used “drill screws” as I dont have a drill.
I can add some pictures tomorrow of how I did it even though Im aware of the fact that there are 10+ other better ways to do it.
Q
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I used a piece of pine.
My edgun stock is walnut, not a very hard wood compared to maple.
Thanks,
Gabe g