Q:

polishing

I am looking For some info on how to polish the inside of my talon ss frame.
Well let me clear this up what tools are used? I Used my Dremul to polish my trigger group and it came out great but I am totally stumped on how to get into the frame with it.
What are you guys using to polish the tight spots and the really deep spots like the hammer area?

Mods/Machinists

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how about that slip2000? reads well (sorry for hogging the post)

I wouldn’t “oil” the trigger group. A dry lube would be best. Actually I think there are posts about people getting crappy accuracy cause of over lubed trigger groups.

good write up their cal, given me something to think about. will be going back to my original thoughts of just oil on the trigger components and making a new set out of 01 tool steel, new safety rod out of the same (or a old coat hanger as pointed out to be good) and my safety knob to match Adam’s new trigger.

looking forward to the step by step

Sorry for the long what guys!
Yes I did the polishing on my trigger components. And I have to say that I am not impressed 🙁
I meet up with Adam the other day and as we where talking I brought it up on wanting to polish the inside of my gun and he made some very good points to think about.
So to start off things first think of this the anodizing on you AF gun is the hardest part of the aluminum. So do you really want to strip it off? Second the trigger group is case hardened (so only the outter most skin is the hard part) so do you really want to polish them up much? So here is what my dumb butt did. Ok so I took may trigger a part and put each peace in a vice and used a dermal abrasive buffs I used the finest grit I could find (320) and went to town on the trigger peaces. I smoothed out all the ridges and heavy pitting on the parts. And then used the dremel buffing pads with some polishing compound to take out and last scratches until my parts where all smooth and shiny.
Well Once all back together in installed Adams trigger shoe and noticed that just opening the gap in my trigger to make room for the bolt in the shoe left some gouges in my newly polished trigger parts. So moral of the story is that my trigger is all shiny and smooth but very soft and on top of all that I notice only a small difference in the smoothness of the trigger, mostly in taking off the safety (still not smooth enough to just use trigger finger)
I would say the only mod on trigger worth time and effort would be installing over travel and stop mod on your trigger.
And just so you guys know I have a Condor and a Talon SS so I did the polishing and trigger mod to the Talon SS so I could compare. So all this info is off a side-by-side comparison of stock to modified. As of now I have not polished the inside of my frame yet but I will do some light buffing with Teflon based lube and a tool I made and some leather (Adams idea). I do not intend to remove any of the anodizing. Also I am not going to polish my Condor Trigger group just oil and trigger mod for over travel. 😉
I will do a tutorial with pictures on all of this and a trigger mode if you want it. I am doing the trigger mod on my condor today.

Ha,does read that way bud yes. Was addressing cal after these fine suggestions to see if he had done it and how. 😳

quote tatsumi:

have you done it yet? waiting for your method of choice here before i do mine 😆

Are you talking to me? I didn’t do mine. Tony did his magic to mine.

have you done it yet? waiting for your method of choice here before i do mine 😆

Does anybody have before and after pics?

Flitz from Ace hardware, worth it’s weight in gold, as far as polish and protectant goes.

use a piese of dowel almost the ID of the tube , cut a small slot thru with a hack saw (or saw of sorts ) then put a folded piece of light sand paper in it 400+ , an give it a spin in a high speed drill or better an keep it moving . then take the paper out an slip a nice piece of cotton in with some polishing rouge. use lots of the rouge …. actually the white equal to rouge for aluminum cant think of what its called .

what i have done is i use a piece of wooden dowel or plastic rod with some red scotch brite on it to take the annodizing off by putting it into a cordless drill and running it at a low rmp and moving it up and down the inside of the frame then i repeat this with grey scotch brite which takes the swirls out left by the red…lastly use a cotton cloth rapped arround the dowel/rod with some polishing rough or paste and repeat then one more final time with a clean cotton cloth to “buff” the finish..take your time and don’t force anything when doing this and you will be happy with the results….since the scotch brite and polish introduce grit into the fram i recomend that you fully dissamble the gun includeing the trigger group so its easier to enshure that all of the grit and rough/paste from this is removed before you put your gun back together and get things dialed back in…Greg

you and me both about the internal frame area. done the rest with good results but not touched that as yet.

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