polishing the inside of the frame
i remember reading somewhere, that polishing the inside of the frame (not just the barrel) on the area where the hammer/spring slides, greatly improves consistency on these guns.
Has anyone done this? did you get any improvements? and, how did you do it, what tools did you use, etc.?
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I dont use it.. but only because I’ve never found a place that sells it.
Some dont think its a good idea as debris may get stuck to it. I can see their point, but I figure its fine using a dry lube. Debris is going to enter the gun regardless of whether its been lubed or not… and shouldnt interat negativly with a dry lube. Wet lube on the otherhand is probably not a good idea.
YN,
Interesting to note a graphite coating is used on the OEM trigger parts. A spray coating is often available in some hardware stores.
Just as info.
I tried the dry graphite and did not like how it performed. So i cleaned it, coated the spring with rubber and put her back together. I could tell i wasn’t getting a good smack with the hammer, trigger was stiffer the gun didn’t feel right. I striped her back down and thats when i did the thorough cleaning/polishing/waxing using Maas jewelry polish. I can assure you the anodizing is still present, just a good lube job, took the junk rubber off the spring, which does work with the twang. Lightly oil stoned the trigger components. All i did was swab the interior with the Maas jewelry cleaner/polish/waxer, all in one claim 🙄 . Well for me and my rig it worked alot better than the dry graphite, which i wettted with acetone as a carrier to apply it to a given area, for my area of the country maybe with the higher humidity in the summer a dry lube is no good. IDK. I did use a flash lite to check where my wear spots were. Used the swab at a low rpm so as not to create to much friction. I did the complete interior but spun it a little more in the brech/hammer slide area.
As the others have already said be careful. I used a long drill bit wrapped with old tee-shirt wrapped the bit with a 6″ wide piece of it. Checked for fit, and applied the polish. Spun it up a bit and of course i got some compression of the material and had to add another strip to get a snug fit. With the first pass i got some black residue, pellet dust, graphite, dirt. After i used the additional material with some more polish i got no discoloration or anything. I mostly concentrated in the brech/hammer run area. I feel i got good results, and did no damage. If a guy really cranked up the rpms got some friction going by drying the swab i could see some removal of the finish. This is not a lube i used but a polish/wax type of deal which gave me a smooth shiney surface. This has out performed any oil or dry lube i’ve tried. I was testing a valve at the time so i know what was what with the numbers. I retaped the spring w/ 😆 Blue painters tape re-installed the rest and re chronied the gun. 20 fps avg. increase. I believe the rubber on the spring was slowing things down, residual graphite/oil making the slide gummy. What i have now is a clean waxed interior went from shooting Kodiaks, 10 shot string 820-802 to 839-820 and was getting more consistency shot to shot. Tophat set at .058/.060 for the above numbers.
Sorry this is long winded, i tend to be. We all have our rigs setup just a little different what works for some doesn’t for others. I’ve clarified some points of concern and maybe others will give it a try, someone else came up with this, i just followed the directions and used a bit of common sense in not over doing the polishing.
I think Tim1 advocated using a dry graphite lube and tofazfou and some others on this side of the pond use it with good results.
I dont use it.. but only because I’ve never found a place that sells it.
Some dont think its a good idea as debris may get stuck to it. I can see their point, but I figure its fine using a dry lube. Debris is going to enter the gun regardless of whether its been lubed or not… and shouldnt interat negativly with a dry lube. Wet lube on the otherhand is probably not a good idea.
Just a thought.
Anything one does, and certainly a film lubricant qualifies, to reduce friction smooth or hasten movement, should be a good thing. In part it gets into surface texture and film thickness.
Anyway good thoughts ❗ 😉 Tef
so that crappy tape inside the frame is “standard issue” on AF rifles???
ahhh i see! so it must be another one of those “space age materials” / “high tech finishes” AF brags so much about! WOW! i was SOOO wrong!!!, i tought it was just a piece of cheap paper tape! LOL 😆
As for polishing my frame, i think ill go with YNs advice, and let the hammer polish it with use. This “Space age wonder” is fragile enough as it is.
Instead of polishing the inside of the frame, et al, how about coating them in powdered graphite?
Just a thought.
The intent regarding polishing is just that, to polish, to smooth. Of course other parts that move in there can be polished as well. To polish means to lower the microinch.micrometer surface finish among other points. If a lubricant film remains on the surface as blackops mentions, then energy consumed as the parts slide is reduced and more energy is expended when motion ceases and energy is absorbed/transferred onto the objective. There may be ever so slight a reduction in hold time.
I leave the anodize, no reason to remove that hard coating. Polishing a hard face is not at all uncommon,,,, removing it is probably not a good thing.
Understanding some of the tribology thought it may be helpful.
I think most or many have found the tape on the spring. I fooled around with that as some of the springs are not exactly straight. Course I threw mine away 😆 😆
I once posted that just using the gun would eventually smooth the surface on the inside of the frame, and not only would the surface be smooth, but it would be harder than a surface that was simply polished by a process called “work hardening”.
Similar to how the ball burnish parts.
I’d polish the spring… and then let the spring work harden the frame
Good point Adam…I think of how I would do something. Not always how someone else might get a little too enthusiastic with the polishing and burn through the hard anodizing exposing soft aluminum, which would/could suck.
Jim.
errr what’s wrong with polishing the inside of the frame? the hammer/hammer spring is really the only thing that touches AND moves on the inside of the frame. Sanding the anodizing off I wouldn’t do but polish it, oh yea. Looks like a project for this weekend since I brought my chordless drill and long wood bit 😀
Bod that is SWEET you picked up 20 fps…did you clean and lube the internals while they were out? Maybe just less friction on the hammer spring helped out?
😆 that piece of masking tape is pretty funny but I swear someone said they took it off and it started “twanking” 😆 I’ll have to test that out this weekend also.
Jim.
I think a caution is needed in doing it. It is important not to alter the tolerances to much and Sky does not want to you take some advice that might ruin your gun. Anything you do just be cautious. As you know once material is removed it can not be put back.
Good thread guys and thanks for the laughs on the last couple of posts 😆 especially you Martin777 😆
errr what’s wrong with polishing the inside of the frame? the hammer/hammer spring is really the only thing that touches AND moves on the inside of the frame. Sanding the anodizing off I wouldn’t do but polish it, oh yea. Looks like a project for this weekend since I brought my chordless drill and long wood bit 😀
Bod that is SWEET you picked up 20 fps…did you clean and lube the internals while they were out? Maybe just less friction on the hammer spring helped out?
😆 that piece of masking tape is pretty funny but I swear someone said they took it off and it started “twanking” 😆 I’ll have to test that out this weekend also.
Jim.
I heard they used masking tape because it made it go faster……
No seriously….that tape is just a little ridiculous. What next a paper clip in the trigger mechanism? 😆
Yep. My NEW Condor (Feb.’07) also came with a piece of that shit in it—>
Benzin: that tape is actually to be found on the hammer spring. It from the factory and is there to stop “twang”, although its effectiveness is somewhat debatable.
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Thanks Mike, I’ll check it out.