Power wheel seized up?????
Anyone ever experience this before? It is not my stock screw pressing on it. I was testing out some different pellets at 25 yards and I was adjusting preload from 8 down to 0 and all of a sudden it got stuck on 0 😡 I’ve never had this happen before. I have an 18″ barrel on the way and I will be swaping out my 24″ so I will have to take it apart soon enough, but I’m curious to know if anyone else has experienced this before?
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If your going to have to do that you need to go buy a 7/8″ dowel. Drill a .375″ hole in the end. Make sure it is 3″ deep so you are not pushing on the thin part of the barrel. Make sure you drill the hole straight as possible in the center. If not make the hole 7/16″. Barrel bends real easy, just ask RC.
Make sure the dowel is straight when buy it so it will fit in the frame. You will have to remove the tank collar also.
When you get the barrel out get rid of that flat rubber washer next to
the PW.
It does nothing but bind things up.
I think that is your problem.
Good luck.
Tony
Looks like you already removed it for me Tony 😀 This was the first time I have taken the rifle apart since I bought it from you…have to admit, looks as nice on the inside as it does on the outside! 😉
I just spent the last 2 hours putting in the 18″ barrel and I have to say this is my first time dealing with the QC issues of AF rifles. At first I thought maybe I had a bent barrel…no. Then I thought to change the barrel bands (take the ones off of the 24″ barrel that was previously in the frame…NO!). Then I realized that the problem was surely with the turned down (leade in) section of the barrel. The problem is that the breech does not float smoothly over the barrel. I need to give it a little nudge with my thumb for the last 1/2″ of travel. I am going to try it out in the morning to see how it shoots…then I will take it apart in a week or so to measure the differences between the three barrels I have on hand and also the three breeches. That barrel was tight going in and it will be a pain coming out. I will have to put a dowel against the breech and tap it out.
😡
Will do Tony, thanks.
Hey Joe,
When you get the barrel out get rid of that flat rubber washer next to
the PW.
It does nothing but bind things up.
I think that is your problem.
Good luck.
Tony
Steve, the best I could do with the predators was 1/2″ to 3/4″ so the Crowmags shot half of that! I was surprised. I didn’t expect them to do that good. My barrel never did good with the Beeman extra heavies, but it does like EJ’s and Jerry’s slugs and bullets!
I may be selling this 24″ barrel soon, hint 😉
Thanks Doug, I kind of figured I would need to pull it apart. I had wanted to shoot some long distance shots with the 24″ barrel now that I have the MD stock on it…but I am not going to take it apart unless I am switching to my newly acquired 18″ barrel. The reason being with this new MD stock, and with the second hole I drilled in it for the frame screw, I had to make a shim for the screw to pass through between the stock and the trigger group cover plate otherwise the trigger group plate was not seated against the trigger springs preventing the gun from cocking. Lining up that shim with the holes and at the same time trying to keep the trigger plate and three springs in tact was quite a hassle. I suppose I can simply use a button head screw to hold the trigger group plate in place and temporarily put the stock on with the original (one point of contact) screw…just to try out different barrels, but ultimately this is going to become an 18″ condor. Doug, did you get my PM about the .257 frame?
You bottomed it out. Just pull it apart and you can undo it out of the gun.
…but if you can get them on target, they do lots of damage. They open up like a pistol bullet when you score the hollow point cavity…and they are cheaper than Predators. Good luck!
Yes, it was not the screw, but just to make sure I even backed it out all the way. The only thing I did to this gun, prior to shooting it, was remove the safety, but that wouldn’t have any effect on the power wheel. I am going to check the barrel band screws, perhaps something shifted and maybe it is leaning against the frame (I doubt it) but I am reaching here.
Right when it happened I was testing Beeman Crow mags and I was quite surprised with how accurate they were. They were shooting 1/4″ to 3/8″ groups and the kings were averaging 1/2″. So thus far “Crow mags” are the most accurate (but we are only talking 20 yards here…).
Yep, but it did end up being the stock screw was lightly touching it.
I figure you soosned the screw, as you already said this isn’t the problem. Humm?
Mike
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Make sure the dowel is straight when buy it so it will fit in the frame. You will have to remove the tank collar also.
Oddly, it wasn’t bad coming out. All I did is put the crown end in a vise with rubber pressure line around it and it came out with one pull. Found out that the problem is the breech, not the barrel leade in. It is slightly warped. I guess that’s what happens after you hit it with a 90 gram hammer for 2.5 years 😡 Luckily I have two other breeches lying around.
Doug, let me know your ideas on the frame for the .257. I sent you a pm??? Reason being, now that I have it apart, if the longer condor frame is the better choice for the .257 build, I will put this 18″ .25 barrel in my short/modified frame.