Q:

R3 long with NC shroud issue solved (for now)

Hi All,

Before I begin, be advised that my gun may be one of those odd balls and what I write may not apply to your model. This is my experience with my gun which I would have left alone in stock form but want the quietest gun possible. Hopefully, my journey will end now, but I doubt it :8: .

I wanted my R3 .25 long quiet so I asked Neil Clague to make a replacement shroud as well as a screw-on ldc. After 4 months, I realized that the barrel along with the attached shroud was moving vertically when I placed pressure on the shroud from the top and bottom. I finally figured out why Ed tightens the shit out of his baffle nut. The barrel travels through the spacer via two holes drill into the spacer between the shroud and the breech. The hole in the spacer is larger than the outside diameter of the barrel. Therefore, there is significant play between the difference of the barrel od and the spacer hole. This is why I believe Ed applies a lot force when tightening the baffle nut onto the end of the barrel. Without the tension, the barrel, along with the shroud would move around. Please note that this may only apply to the earliest model of the R3. The model with the steel breech which I own. This is how I fixed the issue which only exists if you have a screw on NC shroud like I do. To my knowledge, Hoot and I are the only people who have such a shroud. Once you see the pics, you will hopefully understand what I am talking about.

First, I needed to find a piece of sheet metal with enough thickness to make up the difference between the barrel od and the spacer hole where the barrel travels through and meets the breech (steel in my case). I cut a piece out from an aluminum coke can to try. Damm, it was a perfect fit. I also use pieces of al cans to shim scopes when necessary.

Next, I rolled the piece to approximate the od of the barrel and placed it in the spacer hole. I also cut out tabs so when I inserted the barrel, I would not force the shim behind the hole which would then be useless.


Then, I inserted the barrel and screwed it onto the breech.

I attached the shroud and thought I was done. Nope. The spacer and barrel still had some up and down movement. When I wiggle the scope up and down, the spacer moved next to the breech. The movement was minimal but noticeable to me. I want zero movement. So I placed an shim on the opposite end of the spacer. This time, I didn’t cut tabs. I just carefully wrapped the shim around the barrel and screwed the barrel onto the breech. The shim is red (coke a cola can).

I secured everything and there is now no movement at all. I’m satisfied. Luckily the thickness of the coke can was perfect or else I might have given up. So if you have an R3 and plan to order an NC shroud, you might experience the same shifting as I did. Remember, this may only apply to the earlier R3 models with the steel breech. I believe the aluminum breech R3’s have a lip on the shroud washer which may address this potential issue.

This is not an issue inherent with the gun itself. This only applies to guns which have been modified like mine. If Ed would have drilled the spacer hole so that the barrel fits somewhat tightly into the hole, than I would not be typing this. However, he may have not deemed it necessary because, I believe, he intended the barrel to be tensioned. Hence, making it a requirement to forcefully torque down the baffle nut. I always wondered why the nut was so tight. This MAY be why. Only Ed knows so please take this as my opinion only. Of course, doing so eliminates any type of vertical or lateral movement.

My gun was accurate before this mod and now I am confident that it will remain accurate without babying it. Before, I worried that if I bumped it, especially the upper receiver, I might have misaligned the scope and barrel alignment.

This is a lot to go through and some may say, “why not just leave it how Ed designed it?” Well, I was looking for a silent gun and it was not before. Now it is because I can attach an ldc to the end. This was not possible in stock form.

Gabe G.

EdGun

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Viewing 5 replies - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)

Sir Ville,

I see you point. Without a specific value, we are just guessing. One solution may be to use a torque wrench and measure the value. Shoot the gun to determine accuracy. If it is accurate enough for your liking, record the value, keep the torque wrench in you kit, and shoot. Next, time the shrouds needs to be taken off, you will know exactly the pressure needed. Another idea can be to “clock” the position all the rotating part like the shroud, spacers, etc… Record the positions and your set. Of course, this may take a lot of experimenting. That can be fun if you get the results or it can be a nightmare if you know what I mean 😉

Gabe G.

Thanks OG!!!

I’m still working on finding a suitable range for distance shooting. The R3 is so interesting to work on. I discover something new each time I play with it :8:
The purpose of each part and as a whole is really intriguing to me.

I also agree with you that tension is needed. As I have it now set up, there is tension but not nearly as much as it was in stock form. Ideally, if someone can make a baffle cover tube (you know the one that screws over the baffle and onto the threaded spacer ahead of the shroud tube) WITH a threaded end where I can attach my LDC, I would definitely stick with OEM set-up.

Another possible option would be if Tony or Ed would offer a replacement shroud system like the one on the .30 cal guns. I’m sure it would easily make my R3 just as quiet as I have it know with that large muffler. Most importantly, the tension would be preserved. I think I will email Tony…..

I will try to shoot at 50 and 100 yards. As soon as I do, I will quickly post my results. That is the only way to know if the NC system works. Right?

Thanks guys,

Gabe G.

That´s one of those things i grew to not-to-like. What really got on my nerves was the fact that if the barrel/muffler nut wasn´t tightened at the EXACT same spot, every time (and when the hell it is ??) the POI would wander. A lot.
Also – severe clipping was an issue if the muffler was even a bit off the preferred spot.
And when one asks the creator of things about the correct torque value the answer is : “Tighten untill it´s tight enough”.
WTF is that for torque value anyway ??

Gabe: nice write up and work.

I would like to see you post 50 or 100 yard groups with the stock setup and with your modifications.

At 100 yards, my money is on the stock setup. You now have no way of keeping the barrel tight in the front breech block and it is going to still move around some, even with the coke can shims. Plus, the barrel is no longer tensioned.

With your mods, I don’t think that you will get the same 100 yard groups that the stock setup provides. The R2.5 used the scope clamps to mount the scope and clamp onto the barrel and air tube. The barrel wasn’t tensioned but, it was locked in and held parallel with the scope.

On the R2.5s, the barrel wasn’t tensioned and ED said that the R3 barrel tensioning method increased the accuracy of the gun over the R2.5s.

You no longer have that tensioning.

Neil needs to quit pissing around and make a rear moderator tube that will accept the R3s rear moderator back end cap and he also needs to come up with a nut that screws onto the breech end of the barrel, locates and seals the front end of his rear moderator tube, can be torqued down to tension the barrel and then accept his additional front moderator.

My steel breech 25 cal R3 cal barrels can be moved around when pressure is applied to them.. They always returns to zero after pressure is removed. Your setup, without the barrel tension, could/can move around and not necessarily return to zero.

I could be wrong; it happens more often than I like to admit! 😳

HOOT is very happy with his Neil Clague setup BUT: he considers a 30 yard shot long range! 🙄

Ed has said that he will introduce his 30 cal offset front moderator in other calibers. They will be a retrofit on older guns. My 30 cal R3 long is stupid quiet with the new offset moderator! It is the quietest of my current 4 Matadors and it produces 89 fpe compared to the 45 fpe that my 25s give. I want some new front moderators for my other Edguns!

Brother Meech;

Great and nice job, well-done… good i see you finally done what you want, and your NC is looks nice …

but i think this needs only for .25cals, not .22cals, mine even with average of 1001 fps still quieter than my Marauder .22cal, when i drop down the power to below 900fps, i can hear only the hammer hitting, and sound of impacting pellets to the target …

Viewing 5 replies - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)

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