R3 moderator baffles
How in the hell do you removed the R3 Edgun moderator baffles off of the end of that barrel. Is it welded on? Looks like it screws on, but it ain’t moving. I have got the modertor sleeve off, now trying to remove the slanted baffles.
Let me know if you have had that off.
HELP ED !
later
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Viewing 11 replies - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
Tachdriver, why would you heat a new nut? I use that method only when I have some veeery rusty nut and when you heat it all that rust burn and nut expand and shrink as you heat him and leave him to cold several times so all connections of nut and rust broke and you can then easy unsrew that nut.
But when you just heat some nut, nut just expand and its even harder to unscrew it.
I take mine off the way that Ed shows in the video. It just takes me a couple of min to do. I torque the shit out of it when I put it back together.
I have a couple of Teflon blocks that I put the front breech block in and then clamp the whole mess in my vise.
I am wondering if different torque values, on the nut, will make a difference in accuracy. I plan on buying a 20 mm crow’s foot wrench and see if different torques make an accuracy diff.
A mod, my secret….
Later
Why did you want it off in the first place ???? 😯
ok, I got it off and the method is not the best and it worried me but all went well. Take a propane bottle torch ( yep, a torch ) and put a lite pencil flame on it. Play that on the nut for @ 30 seconds. Watch the air chamber and paint, just enough to warm that perforated nut. Lay the gun on a pillow and grasp the barrel tube tight in your hand ( assistant ). Put the 20mm open end wrench on the nut and smack it with a 8oz hammer. Off it came. Nothing tore up. Really easier than I thought.
Now how much torque when I re-install it ?
Later
Yep, it is REALLY TIGHT! 😆
On the R3s, the barrel screws into the breech. The aluminum barrel band/scope mount housing is also a long spacer. The baffle nut puts the barrel in tension and, according to Ed, makes the R3 more accurate.
I like the facts that there is no O ring in the end of the barrel and that the barrel can no longer come loose and slide forward.
Damn that is tight. I cannot see what it does not just pull the whole barrel out with it. In the end he just uncrews the breech from the barrel, what holds that breech ?
Later
Tachdriver, here it is.
Sorry about the funny sounding background audio! 😆
It screws on but, as you can tell Ed REALLY tightens the shit out of it!
I couldn’t get mine off either! I had to email Ed and ask if it was epoxied on, reverse thread or what? I’m at work now, I will post a vid of Ed taking the barrel off later tonight or you can search his You Tube site for it.
He removes the whole barrel assembly, puts the front breech block in a vise and puts some major torque on that shroud nut!
It takes a little more work to remove the R3’s barrel but, I like the R3’s setup better than the R2.5’s.
Screws on. See pic at http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21403&start=80
Viewing 11 replies - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
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But when you just heat some nut, nut just expand and its even harder to unscrew it.
Yes, that is how it works on the rusty problems, but even a brand new nut and/or bolt or any sort of pipe threads, when using the liquid locking agent such as red 274 loctite product, you best heat that up a little to loosen the 274 or your in for a disaster…