Rifle tear down
Hello All,
I am gonna be tearing my rifle completely down and rebuilding (I have quite a few aftermarket parts to put on).
What type of lube should I use?
What all should I replace since I am going to have it disassembled?
Any other thoughts would be appreciated…
Al
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Viewing 8 replies - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
Where do I get the orings?
Good question… maybe Talon Tunes will sell a few?
As far as the safety goes what parts do I remove to get rid of that POS safety altogther?
Once the trigger guard is off, the safety pulls right out. It’s just a piece of wire. There’s also a little tiny spring that touches it that can come out as well. Everything else stays in there. (note: I know I said to trash them, but you may want to store them away somewhere instead. :wink:)
What dry lube is everyone using? I have seen some mention dry lube but not sure of what type?
This is what I use: http://www.3inone.com/products/dry-lubricant/
I am going to use oring lube from work made for orings in high pressure applications called Christo lube…
That’ll probably work, but make sure it’s 100% silicone.
HTH[/b]
bump it back up so I can get my last few questions answered
Where do I get the orings?
I have already had the trigger guard and grip off so I know about all those damn springs..hehe
As far as the safety goes what parts do I remove to get rid of that POS safety altogther?
What dry lube is everyone using? I have seen some mention dry lube but not sure of what type?
I am going to use oring lube from work made for orings in high pressure applications called Christo lube…
Maybe another part on my rifle is not right. I lightly spray coated the inside of the frame and gently wiped it down and let it dry before reassembling… The problem was exactly the same as after a clean and lube. 😕
Replace your OEM breech O-rings with 90 durometer O-rings. Before you put them in, give ’em a light grease with some diver’s silicone, or better yet and cheaper, plumber’s silicone (comes in a little tiny tub at Home Depot).
Toss the safety switch in the trash.
Don’t try to polish the trigger parts, you’ll only bollix the mechanism.
Thumbs up on the dry silicone spray, but you don’t need to hose it down. A little dab will do ya.
Keep your thumb down on the trigger plate to hold everything in while you’re taking the grip off, otherwise expect to lose some springs.
Put a white sheet down on top of the table you’re working on, there are quite a few little pieces that will go MIA if you’re not careful.
Holy gunk Batman !
Do not use any type of greese on the hammer. I’m surprised that spray stuff didn’t work. I use the same type of thing. Spray onto hammer, wipe dry, wait for solvent carrier to evaporate, re-install. Works a treat…
The only place you should be using divers silicone greese is on your o rings.
I took pictures of the trigger assembly before I tore it down so I would know how to put it back together… Do you plan on removing all the trigger components? There are pins holding the trigger bars, they need to be punched out (apologies if this is already known to you).
Are you adding any WOKcessories? 😆
Last time I used a spray in dry silicone lube but it didn’t seem to work… I was having inconsistency issues with the hammer, looked like a chainsaw inside, greasy lube everywhere… 😯
This is what didn’t appear to work…
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=235860-1409-M914&lpage=none&cm_mmc=search_gps-_-gps-_-gps-_-Liquid%20Wrench%2011oz.%20Heavy%20Duty%20Silicone%20Spray%20Lubricant
I too am looking for the correct lube. 😕 I was told diver’s silicone worked well (edit-USE FOR O-RINGS ONLY) but I just moved further inland…
Viewing 8 replies - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
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While you have it apart .. and if you have access to a drill press … drill and tap it for the take up and over travel screws … very worthwhile project !