S410 SL hard to cycle.
My s410 after about 1200 rounds had become hard to cycle.
When I pull the side lever to load another pellet, it goes just far enough to clear the pellet mag, then it is hard to pull the rest of the way back.
I have tried it with and without the mag, and I get the same results.
Is this something I can fix myself?
How?
Thanks
Roger
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That plate will come off with a very careful pry. It is tight fitting over the polished pins that all your trigger parts pivot on.
Those screws on that plate, only snug them down very lightly. Too tight and you can cause the trigger to start to bind.
Since you apparently found the area the trouble was coming from, it wouldnt be a bad idea to go back in and look around. I wouldnt be surpised if you found something stuck to the side of one of the parts. I found a hair under that plate on mine, looked like it had been there awhile.
Hi guys
Thanks for the help, I called Boris, he said remove the gun from the stock, and remove the two slotted screws holding the plate that holds the plate on that covers the all the trigger stuff. then slowly cycle the gun and watch to see if something is binding. I removed the two screws, but the plate didn’t want to move. as I cycled the gun it started working correctly, so I put the screws back in. I cycled it a bunch of times and it seemed to work ok.
I think rob3dr, was right dirt or something?
anyway if it happens again I will hunt down this post.
Thanks again for all the help.
Roger
Oh yea, forgot about the anti tamper crap.
Although I heard all you need is a security screw bitset, but I cannot confirm or deny.
Are there anti-tamper guns in the USA? I thought that was a UK deal.
That may or may not have heads…. anti tampering pains in the ass… 👿
Sac, you will find the 410 is pretty easy to disassemble.
Pull the barrel band off the rifle, remove action from stock. Turn it over and you should find 6 screws holding the top half of the reciever to the bottom half.
When you remove this, be careful not to lose the seal between the reciever halves. Mine is a white PTFE disk, some older ones have a black oring.
Once apart, if you cycle the lever and still have problems it will be in the top half. If the lever operates ok , then you have something wrong with the bottom part but I bet its in the top part.
You dont really have to empty the air tank to work on the top half, and its all pretty self explanatory once you start in. If you have to work on the bottom half, you can empty the tank by dry firing. Once it reaches about 50 bar the tank dumps. It does take quite a few shots though. The first time I did it took 118 full power shots to dump.
A lot of good info is found here http://www.airarmsownersclub.com, but you need to register to unlock the tech section. Stuffy brits, so be prepared if you start talking about your FAC power there.
A few good posts will alleviate your fear of working on the gun.
The SL guns have ball bearings in the cocking mechanism. Perhaps a piece of grit or something has gotten into one of the ball bearings?
I’d agree on giving Bori a ring.
Is your oring jacked up?
Give Boris at Top Gun a call
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ok, nedt time I get a chance I will remove the plate and post some pictures so it may someday help others.
thanks,
roger