Q:

S510 Shroud Removal! Mods: "Reference Section"???

Does this thing unscrew from the breech?

It must have a glue on the threads. If so, how have some of you gotten past that barrier? Will a hair dryer do it, or is a torch necessary?

A little help please.

H 😯 😯 T

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The O-rings on that bushing were already starting to peel off strips when I removed it.

All in all, I must admit that AA really went cheap with this shroud. It wouldn’t have taken that much to make it 1″ instead of 3/4″, and to put an effective “HW type ‘Curler’ baffle” inside to quiet the rifle down, or dare I say it…even put on a quality short moderator to compliment the volume of the shroud. It could easily be made Marauder quiet for just a few bucks more.

The best R&D individuals for these high end pcp’s are in these forums…if only the manufacturing fools would take the time to read our comments.

We are, after all, telling them exactly what we want for our investment in their product. When you start spending double or triple what a powder burner rifle costs, you should at least get what features you want.

H 😯 😯 T

That vented bushing actually slips over the end of the barrel and keeps the shroud centered with the bore. Your barrel is probably machined to .393″ OD for about 1.5″ if its like my S410 barrel.

The orings on that bushing will fail, a lot, so if your accuracy suddenly takes a shit thats the most likely culprit.

When I made my own shroud tube, it was .75″ ID and I had to make a new bushing that fit tight into the tube, machined the vent slots and bored the inner hole to .394″. Accuracy has been consitently under .5″ at 50 yards ever since and POI hasnt moved in over a year.

With the old shroud, POI moved all the damn time. I blamed it on the dumb barrel band design. My carbon shroud eliminated that too. (pic was early in the design process)

quote sawtime:

Hoot

Did you shit a couple grape fruits ???

You are supposed to peel them first

SAW

They WERE NOT grapefruits!!! Those were my over-sized “Luv-Clappers” which served me quite well in my youth. Harrumph!!!!

H 😯 😯 T

PS: You just wish those two coffee beans you pack were that large!

Hoot

Did you shit a couple grape fruits ???

You are supposed to peel them first

SAW

Seldom does a breakthrough of this magnitude find it’s way to the light of day.

Months of intensive research, strokes of genius, tenacity, dangerous undertakings, and no small risk of personal health, and indeed….life itself, were put on the line to bring this data to the forum.

There are those who liken my efforts to casting priceless pearls of wisdom before common swine. I ascribe to this analogy, but feel morally bound, in what’s left of my misspent existence, to attempt to redeem my evil and devious soul, before I must pay the boatman to ferry my soul across the dank waters of the river Styx, to the inevitable fate awaiting me in the Underworld.

Thus…before I began, I paused….and asked numerous Spirits, both those known, and those unknown, and cried out to Sprites, Fairies, Gnomes, Elves, Ogres, and Trolls, to look favorably upon my endeavors!

Me communicating with the spirit world in my red, cushioned bottom, “NO BLO-OUT DEPENDS/TRI-SHIELD PANTELOONS” ( pat. pending):

Having previously removed the shroud in this post, I heated the top of the shroud and, reaching past the threaded end, which does not come out, I gently pushed the innards of AA mystery into the light of day for all to see and examine:

The first piece is a permanently mounted threaded insert for the endcap to screw into:

Immediately behind this treaded insert are three, (3), (III), plastic cups similar to those used in the Marauder, but roughly 3/4″ OD:

And….finally, holding the three cups in place via a friction fit, is a vented barrel bushing, held with two O-rings. I have utilized advanced logic, Trigonometric alga-rhythms, and some estimations derived from my research into Quantum Mechanics, to determine this barrel bushing is approximately 1.0″ from the barrel’s muzzle:

The scientific conclusion I have derived from my research, calculations, and interpretations of the detailed physical datum from actual laboratory gaseous discharge experiments…is the AA S510 shroud/baffle inserts, aren’t worth a rat fuck!

Utilizing the finest Chinese scientific instruments from Harbor Freight, I have determined, for your edification, that the ID of the AA S510 shroud is .65″, or 15.8mm…give or take a few thousandths one way or the other.

This is not much room to work in, as the total working length for a replacement baffle is 2.5″ (65.19mm), or possibly 3 1/8th” (80.69mm) by utilizing the space between the last baffle and the muzzle end.

Prior experience has shown 7.5″ OAL is possibly the best length for a genuinely effective moderator. This may be reduced by an inch or so with advanced baffling techniques.

While the AA shroud tube is sorely lacking in diameter, and length, for sound supression. One could purchase a Carbine, and buy a Standard length shroud, then purchase additional baffles. Undoubtedly this would help…but the end results are still to be held in question until someone pony’s up the bucks and tries it.

My suggestion is to either get an after-market full shroud (which I’m doing to keep the OAL short, or contact some forum genius, such as Silent Hunter, Get The Blue Jay, or even Subssonic, and have a custom made baffle, with a threaded tube extension, to get enough room to quiet this super light beast. But, alas, there goes the Carbine length.

Thus I depart….and leave you to your thoughts:

Sincerest Regards,

Kindly ‘Ol Uncle H 😯 😯 T

quote Hoot:

Does this thing unscrew from the breech?

It must have a glue on the threads. If so, how have some of you gotten past that barrier? Will a hair dryer do it, or is a torch necessary?

A little help please.

H 😯 😯 T

If you had only paid more attention to my post and less on my avatar you would have known the answer to your question. LOL!!!!!

http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11160&highlight=

Do you have any pics of the disassembled factory shroud for us Uncle Hoot? You have piqued my curiosity. Also, what was that “pot” you were referring to?

Hey Hoot,

Thanks for the info ’bout the lack of locktite and thread direction. Had the same problem when I wanted to clean the barrel. I ended up using the straw trick to thread the home made bore snake. Didn’t want to break the thing, since I couldn’t find info either.

The carbine must be different than the “long” version, which I got. Mine’s damn quiet. I shot two squirrels and a ground hog while some folks, sitting around the porch, were about 100 ft away. I asked them later if they heard anything and they said “nope”. All I heard was the thwack of impact.

If your carbine is still noisy, try shooting through a rice sock. Just keep it pressed real close to the muzzle 😛

quote WalkonKing:

Check here you old fool 😛

http://www.airarmsownersclub.com/

As I suggested in an earlier post, “If someone wants to live a “safe” life, they should become a Nun. Or do like WOK does, engage only yourself in Social Intercourse, in a darkened room, with an environmentally friendly lubricant!

I went to the site in mention earlier, and even a “search” turned up nothing. Besides, those guys live over in the Motherland. They can own real Moderators and not have to be bothered with our limitations!

I got it off with heat from a hair dryer, and a pair of pliers over a towel on the shroud. It was just tight, no glue. Once it broke loose, it easily screwed off.

I might add that the AA shroud is a genuine piece of range fed chicken shit. Whoever designed that thing knows absolutely nothing about air under pressure, or how to redirect a muzzle blast.

It was almost as loud on, as it was after I took it off. I can add a moderator on the end, but then I don’t have a “Carbine”. I have opted for an over-sized shroud, flat on the bottom next to the air tube. It will be 1″ OD vs. the .75″ OEM. And, it will have some thought put into the baffles. Should be quiet. We’ll see.

Kindest regards,

Uncle H 😯 😯 T

Check here you old fool 😛

http://www.airarmsownersclub.com/

My S410 did have some sort of loctite or whatever on the threads. I used a rubber strap wrench on the shroud end, where the slotted end of the endcap will give the strap some grip. A hairdryer on the other end seemed to work but dont heat the tube too much or those crap rubber things they use for baffles will melt.

Yea, I know. 😳 Thats why I ended up building a carbon tube version, I couldn’t get that melted mess out of the tube. I did this trying to get the endcap part out, it is threaded too.

Its a fine right-hand thread, no sneaky lefty crap. I would assume the 510 is basically the same.

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