Shroud Tightness?
Just curious if the shroud on the Vulcan should be fully tightened against the breech block or some space left for expansion contraction? I know my Daystate recommends a gap of 1/16″ but not sure if it makes a difference in the accuracy of the Vulcan. Recently noticed after 500 shots that my shroud is loose and not sure if to torque it up tight?
Thanks much
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That’s because when we are “together” I have to use my pinkie finger. You’ve never been to prison, like the Bedwetter.
That’s what I get for “dating” a virgin! After we broke up, Bedwetter warned me there would be days like this!!!
Kindly Ol’ Uncle Hoot:
Hoot usually uses old condoms as he buys them X-small………
:hoot:
What he said!
The threaded end of the barrel screws into a fitting inside the shroud. It’s not the breech/shroud interface that matters. You just need to lightly hand tighten the shroud as you screw it onto the barrel. Don’t go nuts and gorilla-twist the damn thing on…snug, that’s all it takes. There’s plenty of friction and O-ring grip to hold it in place.
Hoot:
PS: If you want a “compression” fit to hold the shroud on more tightly…simply put a thick, snug fitting O-ring around the barrel, between the breech and the shroud. When you tighten the shroud on, it will compress the O-ring and apply forward pressure against the barrel threads that hold the shroud in place. Get a reasonably thick one, to permit reasonable compression…say an 1/8th inch thick. That way you are compressing rubber instead of bending metal threads! I do this and it works really well…
Tighten the shroud all the way down on the barrel. The breech end of the shroud has an O ring in it. It is independent of the breech block.
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Appreciate it Hoot and Keyser…I worked in the oilfield for years and tend to want to make everything what we called “oilfield tight”. This means using a 36″ pipe wrench with a 5 ft long cheater pipe on it.