sighting problem… newbie… first time with new talon ss
Okay guys, don’t laugh…
I finally got all my stuff together and mounted blah blah. And went to sight my new scope 8-32×60 Nikko Stirling.
Question 1 is this – The 1 piece mount I have has a small set screw in the rear of the mount that pushes through to the rail – is this to lift the back of the mount slightly to point the scope down? or just to help secure it once you have everything tightened down?
Second – What’s a good distance to sight. The Talon DVD says start at 10 feet – I was thinking more like 10 yards.
Third (sorry) and final – it seems like it is shooting consistently high – should I remove the tri rail to lower it or will that make any difference?
Heading back out in the AM.
Thanks for any help!
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Most of what I will be shooting will be around 30 yards, so I will work on zeroing to that. Took off the Airforce Tri-Rail which should help a good bit.
No, you would have to use hold-under. If you zeroed at 35 yards with an SS, you would be hit around 8 inches low at 80 yards.
If you zeroed at 10 yards, you would hit around 2″ HIGH at 80 yards.
I “hold” my crosshairs “over” (above) the intended target.
Here’s an example (roughly) of how I shoot my gun, From 20 to 30 yards the cross hairs are pretty much dead on and those are the distances that I generally shoot prey at.
ANd here’s if I zeroed my gun at 10m, Everything over 10 yards is held underr.
it depends on what you need. this is a problem for a lot of beginners. when i got my gun i was determine to get a powerful scope that looked f,ing amazing on my ss. i got a leapers varmit 6 24 50. it was to much power for what i needed. most of my shots were 5 to 15 yards so i picked up a leaper 3 9 40. i used the mounts form my gamo rifle, used them because they are really low but they just barely fit the scopes tube. but yea never had a problem with shoting 3 inches below target with new scope with low mounts, but had a problem with 6 24 50 with high see thur mounts.
i also have the bsa shim mount it works really good for all of my scopes.
JSB’s at 830 fps. Scope 3″ above the bore. Secondary zero is at 89 yards.
With what pellet/velocity combo… that would be 10 inches high with kodiaks at 950.
No, you would have to use hold-under. If you zeroed at 35 yards with an SS, you would be hit around 8 inches low at 80 yards.
If you zeroed at 10 yards, you would hit around 2″ HIGH at 80 yards.
10 yards is very short distance to zero at and your going to have to use a lot of hold over at longer distances – I zero at 35 yards and then just use a little bit hold over for all other distances
Thanks guys – I will take off the tri-rail and try again tomorrow.
Your shooting low because scopes sit high on AF guns as it is, (in relation to barrel bore center) then you add the tri rail on top of that, makes it even more low. There’s plenty of adjustment in that scope to bring it up.
Personally I don’t even use the tri rail anymore, I get a better cheek weld without it, just using high rings. Also brings scope center closer to bore center, so cant is somewhat less of a issue.
I started at 10 yards and never tried further – got DARK too soon 😥
It may be. If you can still see fine and take the tri rail off, then do that.
Also, what distance are you shooting at? If it’s really close, the scope may not be able to do that. Try shooting farther out, and see if that doesn’t help.
I’m sorry guys – I mis-stated… It is shooting consistently LOW not high. If I am aiming for the bulleye the pellet hits 3″ below it at 10 yards.
Hey guys – thanks… I thought it was a odd little set screw. I feel like an idiot – I was trying to use it to help push the scope down 😯
Even maxed out is is too high. I guess I should try taking the tri-rail off? I don’t have any accessories for it anyway right now. I got a one piece high ring set because of the size of the scope, but I think it’s too much with the tri rail on there as well.
Good scope choice… got one myself. Once you get er dialed in, I think you’ll find you like it a lot.
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1st – I’ve found that height of the extra fail is desired to help my face be more comfortable from cheek to eye with my scope (head tilt and all).
So I wouldn’t get rid of that, especially if it has more rails on it!
2nd – I found that the screw DOES help my scope zero not be, let’s say example: 4 twists to the top of a setting & 25 twists to the bottom. With that I’m not “ZERO”. So I give it (the adjustment screw) what the scope needs for me to be able to adjust it the same amount in either direction of the twist. That way I’m actualy “zeroing” it.