Silly question- lowering scope rail
for all those that have had their scope rails lowered (and subsequent side-cocker mod), what is the best way to go about this? I’m hoping to make a M1913 rail to stretch the entire length of the main body- hopefully this will help to further strengthen the main body. did anyone fill in the old bolt handle cutout, or did you just leave that area alone? how did you secure the new rail to the main body? Screws? Really good epoxy? Both? I really don’t want to re-invent the wheel. I’m still going to design a completely new body, but I need something to shoot and fiddle with in the meantime. Thanks again for any help!!
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Something else that’s been bugging me, I’m not really doing any crazy mods to the internals- better parts, yes- but not too far from stock. How should I tackle the breech/breech knob? will the factory way of screwing the breech knob into the breech suffice? What’d you do Riff?[/list]
awesome, awesome!! something I was thinking- When I do mount the M1913 rail low, would it be better to keep the standard tank setup, or go with Tony’s tank adapter? I don’t want to mount the scope too high after putting in so much work to lower the rail and scope.
My 1911 rail is longer than the scope rail I cut off. I wanted it bonded full length, so I had to mill the frame evenly full length of the rail I was bonding on.
That meant I had to remove a small amount of metal just forward of the section that was cut off because I wanted it perfectly level with the bore. I barely took enough metal off to remove the anodizing, just a few thou.
IMH, the lower you can mount the new rail, the better. There will be less ability to twist-flex.
I put a lazer ahead of the scope once to check for flex. I had to put a gorrilla squeeze on the grip and pull pretty hard to move the lazer dot in the scope. Twisting the grip moved the dot even less.
The JFK grip-adapter/triggerguard has some effect in removing flex but the frame is pretty solid after the rail mod. Everyday shooting this gun is solid without having to worry about how I hold the rifle and that is really the desired effect.
please explain! It doesn’t look like there’s much dovetail left after taking off the scope rail, if you milled it, wouldn’t that take more precious material off? would the anodize even come off if sanded? Thanks again to all!!
I milled the anodizing off. Once you commit to bonding a rail on there really isnt a point of return.
another thought- how to get the anodizing off without taking off too much material? is it as simple as sanding it off carefully??
Thanks to you both guys! I was actually hoping to hear from ya Riff, I really like the look of your rifle in your sig… I was thinking using something like Hysol or some other type of epoxy- not just JB Weld… Thoughts on what epoxy to use?
best to get a skilled cnc shop to do the work mate,,
or if you have skills,,break out the dremal, 😉
tbo the side cocker mod makes a 100% better load and feel to the gun,
untill you have tryed it no good saying it dont matter cos it does,
thers no more drag on the breech and slides just right,, 😎
best mod iv done i think,, complete satisfaction when being used,
atb adam
Mine was both screwed and epoxied. The epoxy was designed specifically to bond aluminum, and required an oven cure.
I haven’t seen the stuff in a couple of years, cant remember who made it. I was a machinable epoxy, worked great for fixing gouges in molds and whatnot. I probably didn’t need the screws with that stuff, but I tend to overthink things when tinkering.
I left the old bolt slot alone, but plan to fill it in someday but not until I make sure I can cut away the overflow inside the frame. That slot really wont make much difference though, its not really the problem we are fixing.
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Works fine screwing the knob into the breech. No other way of doing it. I don’t have any problem running a 13 lb hammer spring in my .308. Still on the original breech. It is delrin with a .060″ aluminum cover.