Q:

Stock issue on R3

After almost two years of using the Matador, a friend of mine noticed the stock began to curve, and the action began to rock in the stock even tho the nut near the trigger, that holds the action in the stock, is screwed tight. Needless to say that this may affect accuracy. He is saying that he has an idea to fix this issue, and he will put it in practice soon. I will let you know when he will show me the fix.

Sorin

EdGun

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Viewing 13 replies - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)

quote Hoot:

quote WalkonKing:

Time to install pillars and glass bed the a stock

Can you elaborate on that fix a bit more?

Perhaps a bit of detail about what it does and how difficult it is to do. I’m certain I’m not the only one here curious about the technique.

H 😯 😯 T

Looky here to get you started

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pzNRIOrwPJM

I wanted to try free floating the air tube on my R2.5 25 cal long. I first put some modeling clay into the trigger housing and hammer block housing areas and then I put 4 sheets of copier paper under the air tube, put the action back into the stock and tightened the trigger guard screw down. I then removed the stock and used a caliper to measure the flattened areas and made these 2 blocks that were the same thickness as the flattened areas of the modeling clay.

The thin alum piece next to the HST screw lock screw is a “foot” that goes under the trigger housing and the trigger guard screw goes thru it. I drilled a hole thru the rear bottom of the stock up into the hammer block area and then drilled and taped a ¼” X 20 hole in the rear block. The rear block mounts to the hammer housing with 4 counter sunk screws.

On the R2.5, I also made a brass tube that I drilled and counter bored for the rear screw. I then epoxied it into the stock. I then filed the brass bushing flush with the stock and the bolt head was recessed into the bushing.

I thought that I had taken some pics of the completed R2.5 setup, I can’t find them. This pic is of my R3 25 long, all I have done so far is make the blocks and drill the screw hole up thru the stock. I did get to try it out one time on a very windy day. It was too windy to tell if it made any difference and I haven’t got around to trying it again.

This one is pretty rough. If it workes out, I will mill one that looks better.

I did think that the one that I made for the R2.5 helped in the accuracy department and the guy that I sold the gun to hasn’t had any troubles with the mounting system.

Ghost, you did a great job.

Pretty smart.

I put another bolt on the rear of the gun and now the gun has two nuts that keep the action securely in the stock.

If anyone have questions or other ideas please post them.

I’m also interested in that but I don’t think WalkonKing can help since he does not have a Matador. I would definitely do it because I think it’s a reversible procedure if anything goes wrong, but I don’t have my new gun yet. That raises another question. Wouldn’t be better to do this procedure before the wood begins to be affected? And it will because I think there is too small contact surface area between the stock and the trigger block.

quote Demp223:

A second rear mount bolt would be preferred.

Ghost has 2 ideas now and one of them is the one you mentioned. He will fix it this week-end so stay tuned.

quote WalkonKing:

Time to install pillars and glass bed the a stock

Can you elaborate on that fix a bit more?

Perhaps a bit of detail about what it does and how difficult it is to do. I’m certain I’m not the only one here curious about the technique.

H 😯 😯 T

I shimmed the top of air tube under band that bolt stock goes to and it solved my subtle rocking issue as well as tightened up groups. Used a piece of tin foil folded over 3 times for thickness and placed on top of AirTunes under band in 9-3 o’clock position. A second rear mount bolt would be preferred.

The screw is the original one. I think the problem comes from that :

That will act as if a longer screw was installed.

Yep; it is definitely a R3.

It looks like the trigger block is not pulling down fully into the frame slot that is cut for it.

Did the owner happen to substitute a slightly longer trigger guard screw for the original one? If he did, the longer screw is bottoming out against the trigger block before it fully pulls the action down into the frame.

Actually, the trigger guard screw goes all of the way thru the trigger block and, if it is too long, it will bottom out on the air tube/front scope rail mount that the trigger block mounts to.

Time to install pillars and glass bed the a stock

It was one of the first R3’s that come out. When it arrived it was a surprise because I was expecting a R2.5

Now the gun isn’t mine anymore. It belongs to a user on this forum. He’s user-name is GHOST and he doesn’t speak english very well but will interact on this topic if necessary.

I am now expecting a .25 R3 from Ed and can’t wait to play with his internals.

Sorin,

I think the R3 is not that long in production????

Viewing 13 replies - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)

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