Stubby Talon .25 caliber FPE results…
I purchased the Stubby .25 Extreme from Randy at R & L and I am pleased with the performance. I have a few comments.
First, under Shrouds and Moderators, I have posted an excellent write-up on the 4″ and 12″ shroud extenders. They are steel, threaded fore and aft, very heavy duty, and the 12″ is hammer slap/pellet impact quiet on my Extreme, at a power setting of “6”.
I don’t need 70 FPE to take down what I shoot. While I haven’t tried to max out this rifle, I’m betting 60 FPE is well within the reach of the .25 Extreme with heavier pellets and a higher power wheel setting. But, for my use, anything within the 40 FPE range is plenty good. Further, I wanted to use 850 FPS, as Ed suggested that general speed for best accuracy. I also wanted to see what the shot count would be at a medium setting. I also noted that 25 shots remained in the mid 800 range, then very gradually dropped over the next 15 shots.
My tests this afternoon produced 40 shots, using 28gr Benjamin hunting pellets, a power wheel setting of “6”, giving me an FPS range from a high of 866 (46 FPE) down to the last shot at 796 FPS (39 FPE).
I didn’t try for accuracy this time out. It’s 100 degrees out there and I moved a lot of mulch this morning.
40 shots took the PSI from 3K down to 2K in the Talon tank.
My particular Stubby Extreme is equipped with a Caldwell bi-pod and a 10X Millet sidewheel scope.
One point to consider about the Stubby is the fact that is short, but that doesn’t necessarily mean it is light. Example, mine equipped with the Millet scope, Caldwel bi-pod, and a full air tank comes in at a not so svelte 11 lbs.
Yes, that’s eleven pounds. A sling is my next add on.
The stock is Maple and perhaps I got a dense piece of wood. Also, I have the 11 oz, 12″ shroud extender. I’m glad I did. But with steel construction, it’s never going to be light. Quiet as hell, yes. Seven baffles. No complaints here.
A couple of pics: (It looks long but measures 37″ OAL)
I can probably get the OAL shorter with one of the forum members shrouds, and reduce the weight about 1/2 lb. I’d like it to be shorter. Further, the adapter to mount the shroud can be drilled and air vented back into the Talon frame. That would help sound levels with a shorter sound modifier.
With a 12 inch barrel producing the above numbers, I can’t complain, but I would like a 14″ or 15″ barrel on it. I measured and I can get it done if I cut three of the baffles in half. I’d still have seven total and I could probably turn the power wheel down to “5” and get the same results.
The stock is a joy to use…feels good!
Given that you can adjust shot count and FPS by adjusting the power wheel, it doesn’t make much sense to me to pay this kind of money in a .25 caliber and not have access to an incredible range of FPS/FPE available with the “Extreme” valve. The “Hi Flo” valve is a Condor valve.
I see this particular rifle as more of a bench/target gun, or long range predator rifle. I don’t know that I would want to lug it around the woods without a shoulder strap.
I’ll post accuracy results when I get a chance. Can an LW 12″ barrel shoot straight at 50 yards??? It’s got the power for sure, now accuracy remains a question.
One thing is for sure…whatever is shot with this thing is going to stay shot for a long long time! It’s a real hammer! Now to find out if it’s a tack driving hammer….
Kindest regards to all infidels…
Hoot the Barbarian
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You will do absolutely fine at 50 yards. I shoot both .20 and .22 out of 12″ barrels and pop plastic golf balls with ease at that distance. With the .25, it will be a “point and kill” rifle.
Weight is becoming an issue with my Condor, as I tend to take too long of hikes with it and start to feel like Popeye after a few miles.
Having said that, I have the same complaint with my Ruger 77/22 that weighs considerably less. For some reason I leave the Ruger behind the seat under a blanket, and carry the Condor. 😎
I think you will be fine since accuracy isn’t too dependent on barrel length in airguns. However is this extreme valve a modified AF valve or something that they machined? If so do you know if it was hydrod?
Your comment on the weight is what I was waiting for. Those stocks aren’t light. Thats why I cut the rear half off the one I made. I was lugging around almost 3 pounds of lumber.
Im looking at the rifle now thinking “what can I drill out or recontour”. BTW mine weighs 10 pounds now, with the 22.5″ barrel and new Hawke tactical scope.
Looks are primary in selling this rifle. The stock could be skeletonized and lose a couple of pounds. The shroud extender is effective but too long, and steel is a bit of over kill. Aluminum would do as well. I’m going to get a shorter shroud, and drill the frame and baffles. That’s a lot of silence going to waste back there. That would cut weight a bit and shorten the kit several inches. If I keep that long shroud, I’d want to have it fluted to dress it up a bit. It needs to be painted flat black to match the rest of the rifle.
My Millet scope is a factor in weight. The bi-pod not so much. It boils down to the stock and moderator as the “go to” places to cut weight. Personally, I have grown to like the heavier setup because once I get it on the bi-pod, it holds rock steady. A heavy rifle will do that. I guess it depends on what you want.
I like this rifle and I’d buy it again without hesitation. It is a beast.
Now, can a 12″ LW barrel get the job done at 50 yards?
Hoot
Nice write up Hoot.
Your comment on the weight is what I was waiting for. Those stocks aren’t light. Thats why I cut the rear half off the one I made. I was lugging around almost 3 pounds of lumber.
Im looking at the rifle now thinking “what can I drill out or recontour”. BTW mine weighs 10 pounds now, with the 22.5″ barrel and new Hawke tactical scope.
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It is definitely a modified Condor valve. On the outside it is identical, and it uses a longer spring. The modification has to be inside the valve stem, otherwise you can’t tell them apart.
Check out the pics in the machinest section. I’ll post them today.
Me.