Talon ss with 18" barrel and high flow tank
After having my talon ss for awhile and deciding i wanted to get a little more velocity from the .22 than what the 12″ can do i put an 18″ barrel on it and then shot it with the standard talon tank and then the high flow condor tank. Damn i was surprised when i used the condor tank at the velocity i got. I have the top hat set so there is a very small amount of space for the breech to move when closed and i have an o-rind under it also. I shot some kodiak 21 gr. pellets with that set up and the PW at the lowest setting and i got 1,020 fps! Way faster then i want i actually want the 21 gr. to be around 900 fps if accuracy was there at that speed. So for the people with condor ss models in .22 how do you get the speed down with out creating allot of space between the breech and the frame when it is closed? I know not everyone uses o-rings or shims. The standard tank gave me 820 fps with the 21 gr. kodiaks with the pw at 3 and an oring also and i left the added hammer weight in that the condor uses except mine is slightly heavier by 3 or 4 grams. I will try to shim the high flow tank and get the speed where i want so i can use the standard tank for a .177 barrel I will put in a frame if i can find a real good deal on a frame for it. If anyone else has played with this and has some more info that can help me go in the right direction on shim material or thicknesses to start with I would appreciate it.
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Sry about that i forgot power wheel. It is at 3 i believe and i will double check tonight when i get home.
I tell ya there is more than one way to skin a cat 🙂
you have not said what you are running your power wheel .
i used to run right at 1000 with crosman round nose and hp, accuracy was good maybe not best but im talking 1/2″ at 50 yards , compared to 1/4″ with my condor, i turned my gun down because of violent pass thru’s,
the pellets would ricochet thru the tree limbs with that weeeeeeee zing , sound that is so familiar with rimfire shooting after pass thru’s , so i keep her at around 900 now for the most part.dont get all that with this velocity , or near as bad
That is why i think i will be closer to 900 fps when all is said and done. I have not had a chance to shoot beyond 30 yds yet and i have my fingers crossed that it will be good but i will not be surprised if it is just a little fast yet for the best accuracy. Tuning is part of the fun in shooting airguns and reminds me of working up that perfect load for my powder burners 😀
sounds like your steadely sneaking up on a good tune! 😉 Mine liked 2700 start with the .25 and JSB<s. They are all different. I did find that when I got to around 940-950, while the accuracy was fantastic at short ranges, out past 60-70 yards the pellet started doing the cork screwing. When I backed down to 900 or a little less, it would give a smooth arc with no spiraling.
Many other owners have found the same thing with L/W barrels. Every once in a while, an owner will get really lucky and not have to keep it at these velocities. I would love to have it a 1000 and have great accuracy at long range. But sadly, it just isn’t going to happen.
This is where the .257’s really shine. They don’t care how fast you push them. 😀
Knife
Kinda put this on the back burner do to weather but i finally got a break and did some more shooting. I adjusted the tophat down and used a slightly thicker o-ring and a fill of 2500psi and i got it to sit at 950 fps using 18 gr. jsb. It shot a single ragged hole at 30 yds tuned to this speed and at this point i think i will probably use it and see how it goes for awhile but i think ultimately i will drop it to 30 ft-lbs instead of 36.
I can see how that could happen thanks for pointing that out as i have never seen anyone explain what impact it can have on the breech end of the barrel. I dont think i will have to adjust the top hat very much to get the velocity down where i want. I dont remember if i filled that tank to a full 3,000 psi but if i did im thinking that just dropping it to 2,600 or some where around there and a small top hat adjustment and i will be where i want with a little fine tuning.
If the gap is closed completely tight, it has a tendency for the breach to put side load pressure on the breach end of the bbl. where is is way too thin. Even a little different position when closing the breach will now cause poi shifts. And I am only talking a few thousandths difference.
The design has its short comeings.
Knife
I am kinda torn between that gap. I know experienced users like you dont worry about it but then i here other users with experience as well say its better to not have any gap. So i am kinda stuck in that middle ground and i suppose this will give me a chance to try it both ways and see how my gun performs with some gap to get my velocity down.
I never worried abut the gap between the blot handle and frame one way or the other.
It is a good idea to use a rubber “O” ring behind the too hat. This will help,a nd give you the added bonus of being a poorman’s de-bounce device saveing air! 😉 😀
Knife
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I know they are all different, but mine went an average of 1078FPS with a 2800 PSI fill and the PW set at 3, (25 cal) backed the PW down to 0 and it was still hovering right at 1000. I will need a lower fill pressure, or just use heavier pellets. Those number were with 25.4 JSB’s. I was able to slow it down without reducing the fill pressure by using some EunJin 43’s but I haven’t had a chance to see how well they group at the 50 – 70 yard range yet. Keep having fun, and letting us know how it goes. I’m finding more fun things every time I tinker with mine, guess that’s why I got two. Almost scared to put the 22 barrel in with this tank, as I’m not sure I can slow it down to the 900 range. OK, full disclosure, it’s not a stock Condor valve, highly modified, but fun as hell.
Casey