This Creep keeps bugging me! Make him stop!
I genuflect to input regarding adjustment of my Shorty trigger. I have read many post. However, it sounds like there is a prescribed sequence to the adjustment (Ankle bone connected to the leg bone, leg bone connected to the hip bone…) and micro turns of the hex screws. I would love to get specific direction before I get out in deep water.
Specifically, the current trigger adjustment is as follows:
1st stage – tension is minimal to nil, but nicely reactive to touch. travel seem …right at shortest end of okay. I’ll know better after adjustment.
Stop at 2nd stage – nice, noticable and pronounced. I’m able to repeatedly lightly tap that stop with out firing. I like that.
2nd stage and break – LOTS of creep before shear releases. Weighted pull almost 1/3rd as long as 1st stage and still no break. Can stop 2nd stage pull before break, almost like a 3 stage trigger.
Post break – Travel is a little long after break.
Fire away with sequencing and “1/8th” CW or CCW recommendations.
Crosfire
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:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
Happy to help. I guess now I can come out and mention I don’t own a mutant…lol.
Jman….adjusted to prrfection! Thanks again!
Much appreciated on the info Jman!! :biggrinn:
Let me know if you ended up with what you’re looking for.
Much appreciated, Jman!
Attachments:
Attachments:
Tightening the third screw from the front will reduce 2nd stage creep. Tightening the 5th screw will reduce over travel after the break. Adjust screw 3 from the front first then screw 5. 1 and 2 only affect the 1st stage. Screws 4 6 7 make the weight of the 2nd stage. I wouldn’t adjust those too much if at all. Be very careful about going too far in with screw 3 because the more you tighten it, the less sear engagement you’ll have. Get it to where you are comfortable. Once you get screw 3 just right, cock the gun, Tighten screw 5 till it begins to bind on the sear. While pulling the trigger with normal force back out screw 5 til it fires. Cock again and pull the trigger. At this point you should have a 2nd stage that breaks clean with no creep and minimal overtravel.
I sure did watch the video previously. Then I read that you had to sequentially adjust the other hex screws as well (or that is how I interpreted it). I am just measuring twice and cutting once. I have a motto….”Experience is costly!”.
Examples:.
1. When instructed on installing a MRod trigger in my Disco I was told it was “drop in”. ……only to find out that I had to hack some inlet to make it fit….afterwards.
2. Then when I was instructed on ordering a bulk fill adapter for my Crosman “2400kt” from GMAC, mo one said, “ACTUALLY, get the part for the 2500 because that is what fits the custom 2400kt (?)…Really?! After I shipped it from England to San Diego. When I asked, “How was I suppose to know?”, the response was, “It’s common knowledge!”……okay. 🙄
I’m just very literal.
While I am ever grateful for the video. Esting stated what every component did. He was not specific about only adjusting which one or “NEVER” adjust that one. Or if it becomes a circle jerk if you get it out of wack. So I am just asking up front if there are any land mines with this trigger. It is the trigger….and I am a Newbie…safety first….not screwing up my Shorty is important as well.
Thanks in advance,
Cros…
Ok Mr. Cros…
did u watch this vid, it may help. 🙄
Mine has lock tight, on all the set screw adjustments.
All I can adjust is the first, & 2nd set screw adjustments, from the left side.
I’m not fuxing with the trigger,
any more than what they left me too work with. :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
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No hate from me. Still much appreciated. You should hear advise I get from people that that “have” a particular item.
I’m up and knocking ground squirrels in the dirt at 55 yards! Thanks again!
Crosfire