Todays Blodnob/Selph testing 8/16/09
Well for those of you who didn’t see yesterdays post I installed my valve and was a bit skeptical about it. To sum it up from yesterday it was almost impossible to cock and very loud, think I was breaking the sound barrier with Kodiaks though.
Today was better and definitely a start in the right direction. I was going to try and chrony it like the original set up but it would not catch when I cocked it. So I removed Brads spring and put the factory one back in. My gun is a stock Talon SS .22 with a 12″ barrel and I just added a condor weight when I switched over to Brads valve. I shot it several times at a target and it was shooting one holers at 20 yds. and wasn’t loud at all with my GTBJay shroud a nice tinny sound. I decided to chrony it. My chrony had been acting up in the past with the dreaded err1 code so I didn’t think I would be able to get many shots over it. I was able to get it to work inside my garage. Here is a string with a fill at 3,000 psi. pw at max, figured since I had low spring pressure I would start there, and I haven’t touched the top hat and still don’t know how (come on Brad give us a pic tutoral please). Shots were with me free holding gun not benched or aiming at target (I didn’t think my chrony would work with me for that long that’s why I did it this way) 21 grain kodiaks lubed not weighed.
1-err
2-882
3-883
4-884
5-879
6-874
7-883
8-912
9-900
10-930
11-918
12-914
13-918
14-922
15-933
16-925
17-925
18-949
19-942
20-916
21-err
22-932
23-933
24-918
25-1002??
26-941
27-err
28-950
29-err
30-err
31938
32-932
33-955
34-937
35-957
36-err
37-946
38-940
39-946
40-err
41-938
42-err
43-945
44-928
45-err
46-err
47-936
48-err
49-916
50-err
51-924
52-928
53-err
54-err
55-913
56-908
57-err
58-err
59-err
60-err
61-893
62-886
63-err
64-err
65-err
66-874
When I refilled tank I could not catch how low it was pressure wise.
All Replies
Viewing 11 replies - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
Hey Saw do you have any pics of the valve or a link?
I think I will start by making the T/H so that the breech is some what snug in the fire position and go from there
SAW
Great design, the top hat is threaded on the valve stem.
To adjust ya just thread the TH in or out.
The set screw is actually in the vale port, ya need the right sized flat screwdriver, and you could grind down a bigger one to suit the situation.
SAW
Yeah, I see that’s how its done, sometimes I think too hard. I’ll measure mine tomorrow. Eyeballing it seems to be close to 1/4″.
Yep, even though I haven’t had time to install the Brad valve I did check it out, and take it apart.
Great design, the top hat is threaded on the valve stem.
To adjust ya just thread the TH in or out.
The set screw is actually in the vale port, ya need the right sized flat screwdriver, and you could grind down a bigger one to suit the situation.
SAW
Especially straight out of the box. This is the kind of power in a compact package i’ve been looking for. I’m ready to start playing with some more stuff, the correct spring, different hammers, and some heavier pellets.
Whole new meaning in foot pounds (with 12′ barrel) 😉 Avg. 40FPE!!
What was your starting pressure?
As others, I find the pressure gauge needle swings up fast, then pauses, then climbs slower as you passed your starting pressure. I get a rough low end fill point this way as the valve is opened by greater external pressure.
Mike
Fill psi was 3,000
I had very simlar results with the same setup.
I think the sweet setup is going to be a spring not quite as heavy as Brads, and a hammer right at or slightly heavier than 75gr.
Might have to have a custom breech to hold up to the slam though, with a little bit tighter tophat fit.
I’m using a 75gram hammer in a 12″ SS setup and have to agree, a spring somewhere inbetween stock & Brad’s would be about perfect. I haven’t taken Brads spring back out yet, but I can’t precieve any difference by turning the PW up from minimum setting. Hell of a valve though. Definately more consistent & powerful to boot.
On another note, to adjust the tophat, loosen the silver locking colar that sits inside the top of the tophat. Then with your fingers just turn the tophat counter clockwise to lengthen or ‘bring it out’. When finished screw the locking colar back down into the ‘TopHat’ to lock inplace against the stem. and that’s it,…
Johnny
Especially straight out of the box. This is the kind of power in a compact package i’ve been looking for. I’m ready to start playing with some more stuff, the correct spring, different hammers, and some heavier pellets.
Whole new meaning in foot pounds (with 12′ barrel) 😉 Avg. 40FPE!!
What was your starting pressure?
As others, I find the pressure gauge needle swings up fast, then pauses, then climbs slower as you passed your starting pressure. I get a rough low end fill point this way as the valve is opened by greater external pressure.
Mike
Especially straight out of the box. This is the kind of power in a compact package i’ve been looking for. I’m ready to start playing with some more stuff, the correct spring, different hammers, and some heavier pellets.
Hell of a string for a 12″ barrel.
Not bad at all for the 12″. Looks to be very efficient.
I had very simlar results with the same setup.
I think the sweet setup is going to be a spring not quite as heavy as Brads, and a hammer right at or slightly heavier than 75gr.
Might have to have a custom breech to hold up to the slam though, with a little bit tighter tophat fit.
Viewing 11 replies - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
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Today was better and definitely a start in the right direction. I was going to try and chrony it like the original set up but it would not catch when I cocked it. So I removed Brads spring and put the factory one back in. My gun is a stock Talon SS .22 with a 12″ barrel and I just added a condor weight when I switched over to Brads valve. I shot it several times at a target and it was shooting one holers at 20 yds. and wasn’t loud at all with my GTBJay shroud a nice tinny sound. I decided to chrony it. My chrony had been acting up in the past with the dreaded err1 code so I didn’t think I would be able to get many shots over it. I was able to get it to work inside my garage. Here is a string with a fill at 3,000 psi. pw at max, figured since I had low spring pressure I would start there, and I haven’t touched the top hat and still don’t know how (come on Brad give us a pic tutoral please). Shots were with me free holding gun not benched or aiming at target (I didn’t think my chrony would work with me for that long that’s why I did it this way) 21 grain kodiaks lubed not weighed.
1-err
2-882
3-883
4-884
5-879
6-874
7-883
8-912
9-900
10-930
11-918
12-914
13-918
14-922
15-933
16-925
17-925
18-949
19-942
20-916
21-err
22-932
23-933
24-918
25-1002??
26-941
27-err
28-950
29-err
30-err
31938
32-932
33-955
34-937
35-957
36-err
37-946
38-940
39-946
40-err
41-938
42-err
43-945
44-928
45-err
46-err
47-936
48-err
49-916
50-err
51-924
52-928
53-err
54-err
55-913
56-908
57-err
58-err
59-err
60-err
61-893
62-886
63-err
64-err
65-err
66-874
When I refilled tank I could not catch how low it was pressure wise.
Blodnob Valve adjustment instructions.
First thing you have to realize, this is a valve that needs to be adjusted for your setup, when they were sent out they were only assembled and not adjusted, because everyone has different setups and calibers so here are the basic assembly and adjustments, after you have the valve setup remember never to adjust past the o ring engagement.
Step #1
Install valve stem.
Step #2
Install spring.
Step #3
Take top hat and install set screw.
Step #4
Take top hat and install it on valve stem.
Step #5
Adjust set screw until it is flush with top hat, and then screw top hat into valve until it stops on valve stem.
Step #6
You have completed the initial adjustment and when the top hat is pressed down should look like the picture below.
Step #7
Here is a picture of how the set screw looks in the top hat when it is at full adjustment.