Top hat oring
Hello gentlemen, I have been reading several posts on here about putting an o ring behind the top hat.
My question is, do you remove the top hat from the valve to do this or just stretch it over the top hat.
After you get the oring on, do you reset the top hat gap or leave it alone and start testing over a chrono?
I have a new condor SS in 22 cal. Just received it today.
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Thank you lurker1 and onebaddjI did not receive my condor today due to the weather slowing down fedx. They say tomorrow now. I also ordered a prochrono from Amazon today. I will follow your suggestion and establish some data with the chrono before installing the oring thanks again for you help.
Surprisingly the valve stem is easily pryed out. It scared me when I accidently pulled mine the first time not knowing it would come out so easy.
I am still causious and prefer to pry from both sides so as not to bend it.
Then you wonder what is holding back the 3000 PSI. Not to worry, there is a delrin plug inside being held in place by the air pressure and its spring.
Some use a loose fitting o-ring but I prefer one that just fits the valve stem. That way when it gets slammed from the hammer driving the breech and top hat towards or against the brass valve stem guide it equalizes and doesn’t torque the stem. Theoretically the internal valve spring would keep the top hat from slamming against the brass and bouncing the hammer causing a repeat but partial valve reopening. But theory is just what it is. Most shooters find that the o-ring reduces air useage therefore reducing deviation of FPS so go figure.
Some have readjusted the top hat about 1/4 turn to regain their desired velocity but without a chronograph you really shouldn’t notice any difference unless you use something other than a o-ring that just fits the shaft. Some report using fiber or plastic washers so I’d bet they had to make a bigger adjustment.
The AF top hat has 2 tiny POINTED grub screws that dig into the top hat adjustment threads on the valve stem BUT, the valve stem is so thin that it is easy to dent it inward. Blue locktight is essential to keep the grub screws from loosening. It is Terribly aggrivating when it loosens on you and your Point Of Impact goes astray. Just when you had it working good no doubt.
I would suggest first establish a base of data so you can tell if you are getting improvement from any change.
But 1st snug up the 2 bottom and 2 side barrel bushing set screws in that order. Easy does it, they are only threaded in aluminum. And check the top hat that it doesn’t turn on the stem.
The AF top hat is troublesome and a PIA. Talon Tunes one piece top hat IS GREAT and Versatile ❗
You will need to slide the top hat out. 2 flat head screwdrivers is all you need. Leave the bottle on the gun, cock the gun, put one flat head on each side and slide it out towords the barrel. place the oring on and push it in by hand as far as you can then I use the bolt to seat it some more then I pull the trigger twice to fully seat it. I also use nylon washers sanded down to the thickness I want. Its a cool trick. Youtube search it also, lots of good videos about it.
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A chrono is one of the best tools ever. I spend a s ton of shots behind the chrony before i ever get outside 10 yds on any gun springer or pcp.