Triger/safety improvement without drilling holes?
im interested in improving the triger and safety of my gun, but i dont want to drill holes in the frame, add screws or whatnot. I dont want it to become adjustable or else, i just want it to be a little smoother (less creep) and i would also like it if i could actually remove my safety with my trigger finger.
I was thinking about taking the triger area apart, and using my dremmel to polish the parts, then add a little molly, and specially polishing the parts related to the piece of shit safety, in order to make it a little smoother.
You guys think this is a good idea? will i see some “improvement” with just a polish/lube job? any sugestions to make this job go a little smoother?
thanks!
All Replies
If you do the over travel screw it just requires a hole in the little strip of metal that cover’s the trigger parts on the underside – cheap replacement from AF if you screw it up and no drilling into the frame.
I got a new frame and couldn’t bring myself to drill it and just have the over travel screw.
Ninja –
True that, I still have the over-travel.
Since I’m drill-o-phobic, I recall thinking that I could maybe set the trigger shoe in a way so that the bottom of it would hit the trigger guard and stop right at the point the gun fired.
Never got around to trying it though.
Buzz,
I like a trigger to stop once the sear has released – AF trigger’s dont.
I don’t care so much about how long or how heavy 1st stage is, but once I get that taken in and well into the second stage just before it breaks it should only move enough at that point to release the sear and that’s it.
I dislike Crosman triggers too – Until I made a spring guide that had an adjustable stop that acted as an over travel limiter – then its fine.
Ya know, I gotta say this is basically how my trigger has always performed and I haven’t done a thing to it (besides swear at it the first time I took it apart).
I’ve got about a sixteenth of a inch of travel, then a stop. A bit more pressure and the gun fires. I’ve seen all the stories from others about how bad the OEM trigger is and I’ve always wondered what specifically they’re talking about. I’m pretty satisfied with it, can’t imagine it being any better.
Maybe one of the previous owners did something to it? The trigger parts don’t look like they’ve been messed with, and no screws or anything are added.
Guess I’ll just chalk it up to luck and clean living.
Don’t shoot your eye out kid.
What i mean is, what it worth the trouble? what improvement did you notice?
Thanks!
my trigger now is great. It is like a 2 stage trigger. I can squeeze the trigger back to where it has positive stop and with the next little pressure the gun will fire. after doing the trigger job to the rifle, I used a rubber mallet to check and see if I could get a discharge (by striking it). It never discharged unless I touched the trigger.
This is what I did on mine:
first I used the fine stone on the contact points of the trigger and intermediate bar. I then polished those 2 point with mothers polish and a dremmel. Second, I used only the dremmel and mothers polish on the intermediate bar where it meets the sear. Third I used the fine stone on the sear (side and top). make sure you take time and go slow and keep it square. I made the sear sharp enough to peel my fingernail. I then polished it with the dremmel and mothers. finally I used the stone and dremmel to polish all contact points of the safety. All polished points will look like a mirror when finished.
I hope this helps and here are some links that helped me.
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2216&highlight=
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6732
semper fi
Never payed attention to the fact that my gun had a hard time cocking, until one day walking around I bumped a tree and it shot the ground next to me.
My priority went to fixing it after that. š
DO NOT mess around and make your spring too weak to hold that sear up. Bad things could happen.
using a weaker spring on the hammer sear next to
reduce the drag on the hammer when it’s cocked and fired….
Stop thinking about that. šÆ
If anything the sear spring needs to be stretched a bit. If you replace it with a weaker spring the saftey might not engage and even worse the gun would fire if bumped, dropped or shaken.
No safety on either of my guns but, man it sure
makes the cocking smooth on my other Condor…
I cut a piece off of that spring and the sear seems to
engage fine and solid….Haven’t dropped it yet but, I get your point….
using a weaker spring on the hammer sear next to
reduce the drag on the hammer when it’s cocked and fired….
Stop thinking about that. šÆ
If anything the sear spring needs to be stretched a bit. If you replace it with a weaker spring the saftey might not engage and even worse the gun would fire if bumped, dropped or shaken.
I used 600 grit sandpaper and valve grinding paste…
I still have some travel but it is really smooth…I also
changed the spring on the first stage and it is almost
none existant now…Really soft…I am thinking about
using a weaker spring on the hammer sear next to
reduce the drag on the hammer when it’s cocked and fired….
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7205&highlight=
semper fi
After working your triger, and besides the overtravel issue (corrected by the screw i asume), did you notice significant improvement? Does it have less creep? is the safety at least a little easier to operate?
What i mean is, what it worth the trouble? what improvement did you notice?
Thanks!
I polished my trigger and have had no problems at all. I used a fine knife stone and then a dremel buffing pad (with mothers polish). I could not be happier with my trigger. I also did the over travel screw.
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7205&highlight=
semper fi
If you polish to much you will take off the case hardening. Be very careful and tread lightly.
mhhh, thats what im affraid of, a friend of mine bought a used condor last year, and after a few months of use, the piece of crap dint cock any more (the sear dint hold the hammer). He sais that when he took it apart, he found that some of the triger parts were worn out badly š
I think ill take mine apart and lubricate its parts wuth some molly, but ill leave the dremmel in its case (no polishing).
Or maybe just adding some Hoppes NĀ° 9 thru the little window where the triger “blade” comes out?
what you guys think?
The trigger bits are not very durable.
If you polish to much you will take off the case hardening. Be very careful and tread lightly.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
I was all setup today to do my trigger upgrade, got my dremmel, molly, the gun, all nicely placed on the table.
Then i realized i dont have an allen wrench long enough to reach the screw all the way inside the grip šæ š
Oh, well, ill stop at the nearest hardware store on monday, do the tune up, and let you guys know how it went.