Trigger adjustment
How difficult is it to adjust the trigger? I have a new to me standard that is a bit light. I suspect this also contributes to a failure to cocktail too. This is a problem when using a magazine as the magazine indexes when you try to recock giving a double pellet if you are not careful.
All Replies
Viewing 13 replies - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
I couldn’t imagine wanting to increase the second stage tension to the point of having to change the spring.
Something doesn’t sound right with yours.
If I hunted with Airgun’s I’d totally feel comfortable using my Mutants.
Regards.
Endo
Got the cover off (thanks for suggestions). I’ve taken most of the overtravel out with the 2nd stage Travel adjustment. I’ve tightened the 2nd stage Tension screw quite a bit but it doesn’t have all that much effect. I don’t have a digital trigger gauge but mine measures about 8 oz.
I notice (with cover off) that when I pull the trigger part way through the 2nd stage (so that the sear moves a bit) and then release the trigger – the 2nd stage spring isn’t stiff enough to move the sear back. Have to re-cock it to re-set the sear all the way. That would bother me in the field a bit but with this new anti double load feature on the magazine there is no issue doing that. Or de-cocking for that matter…
So I’ll probably try to replace 2nd stage spring with one a little stiffer. I’m prob the only person in the world that wants a heavier trigger right… :confusedn: If I can get it up to 2 lb I’ll cut back on sear engagement.
edit: Will have to try the sear tensioner adjust and see what effect that has.
Thanks for the suggestions. I want to set the 2nd stage to 1 – 2 lb and I’m guessing it won’t go that high without replacing springs. ?
First, remove those two screws, then insert the pointed end of tooth pick into the screw hole (either one of them) on the plate. Position the tooth pick against the screw wall in the plate hole with an angle to lift it up to open. You cannot open the plate using tooth pick by looking for the gapes between the plate and trigger box. There is no gap space big enough allowing you to do so with a tooth pick. Hopefully, this is helpful. Alternatively, suction cup would work too.
Screwing in the 2nd-stage screw would help to increase the 2nd stage tension. It is quite easy to adjust, but be patient and do it slowly. Write down every move/change/adjust you made in a piece of paper so you can have a chance to correct the mistake or tune it back. Let us know how it goes.
Regards.
Endo
Got kids?
I do. But they’re both female teenages and unlikely to know what a dartgun even is. Now if dartgun was a brand of expensive women’s clothing it’d be a different story :sadn:
But I like the idea. I’ll have to scrounge up a suction cup somewhere.
Hmmm. I tried with a pick but there didn’t seem to be a gap between cover and receiver but maybe I didn’t really look closely enough – just did it by feel.
Thanks for the suggestions. I want to set the 2nd stage to 1 – 2 lb and I’m guessing it won’t go that high without replacing springs. ?
Yeah, I use tooth pick. It works well.
Endo
a tooth pick in the screw hole at an angle… or use a 90 degree pick and get it under the cover from inside the screw whole. just be gentle and it pops right up.
or a small suction cup would work too like one from a radar detector mount….
I don’t have one yet, but first thing that comes to mind judging by the pictures is like a suction cup from a dartgun dart?
Got kids?
What’s the trick to taking the plate that covers the trigger components off? My veteran came set pretty light. I can’t even get a reading on my trigger gauge. I’d like to see the internal components as I make adjustments. I removed the two screws that hold it but I don’t have an aluminum magnet to lift it out (yes I tried a magnet on it as well as tape).
If you ever loosened the frame screw for what ever reason, like to change your barrel.
I’d check to see if there’s a small amount of clearance in the first stage travel, the second screw from the left when cocked.
In your case you need to hold the cocking lever back to check for this gap.
If you don’t have a gap the safety most likely can’t or won’t engage.
If so you need to realign the frame and loosen all the frame hex blot and move the frame back a little towards the receiver until the safety can be engaged again.
If you ever do a barrel swap out it’ a good idea to engage the safety first before loosening the frame hex bolts, or you might loose the trigger location reference point.
If you do have a gap then adjust the shear adjustment, the 3rd screw CCW to increase the engagement by 1/8 turn at a time and test.
Then adjust the second stage travel, the 5th screw CCW to increase the travel by 1/8 turn at a time and test .
Then you can adjust the tension of the 2nd stage, 4th screw and 1st stage, 1st screw and test in that order CCW decrease by 1/4th turn at a time and test.
Hope that helps yah …….. Hodor and :tag:
~ Greg
So should I try the tensioner first? Small amounts like 1/2 a turn? I’m a novice. And thanks for the reply.
Hodor
Holy crap, now that is an adjustable trigger!
Its easy…
sounds like the sear is right on the edge… this should help.
Viewing 13 replies - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
Great… the plate is opened.
I understand your concerns on the light trigger in the field.
In your case, adjusting 2nd stage tension should help – but not sure if it will give you a 2-lb. I don’t have the newer Mutant, I don’t know if there is anything changed in the trigger box either. Increasing the sear engagement might give you a feeling of heavier 2nd stage but also can create the “problem” you indicated. Sear tensioner will allow you to fine tune the break of the 2nd stage. If these adjustments do not help, as you said, you can always change the spring to a heavier one to reach a 2-lb trigger.
Endo