TSS Power Problem
I don’t know what’s going on, but I can be shooting a while, then all of a sudden the gun seems to go into “no power” mode. The shots fall off about 5 inches and it doesn’t sound like all of the air is coming out of the tank. It sounds like I threw the pellet at the target, no solid CLANG on my pellet trap. Tophat is in stock position and I’ve tried moving pwr wheel all up and down but it doesn’t help. Any ideas?
Thanks
PS: How do you attach pictures to one of these messages?[/img]
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I did knock the valve out, but drained the air from the tank before doing it. I will fill it up later with a Scuba tank and give it a try to see if the power is back.
If you want to take the air out of the tank, there is a procedure in the AF Manual. Just put 2 dimes inside the adapter and start screwing very slowly the tank. Once the valve touches the dimes it will start opening and releasing the air. Let it drain very slowly.
After draining the air, the valve came out very easily
AHhh.. Ok what happened now?
I need to learn this. My TSS is working wonderfully but I still want to know how to take the tank apart without blowing off my face so in the future I could polich it up or maintain it a bit. Nothing shines on forever.
…. Did you get that tank’s knock valve to start knocking smoothly?
no
OK. I notice there are 2 very small allen screws on the stem. Do you loose them before you pry up?
I put a screwdriver under the tophat and pry up alittle, you can do this on full tank, when I get enough room I put a needle nose plyers under it, try to remember to work it out straight so as not to bend stem.
Can you please tell me the procedure to pull the stem out?
I have to pull my stem out sometimes and clean it and put alittle silicone on it and stick it back in.
I have 2 tanks for my TSS, but for some reason one of the tanks is not giving me full power. Shooting at a target at 15 yds, the pellets will be about 6 inches below the ones I’m shooting with the other tank. Both tanks were filled with a 3000 psi scuba tank.
Also, when using this tank (the no power tank), you can tell by listening to the noise the rifle makes that this tank is not giving full power and it seems that the tank is empty. However, when hooked to the scuba tank it measures 3000 psi.
Any ideas what this problem may be? A bad valve?
hope u fix the problem…wat a bummer 😕
Use this for photos…Works great and is very easy…
http://talonairgun.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=212
My tophat is still out to .14, and the problem went away. I think adjusted too tight against the breech causes excess air to escape from the seal around the tophat, and you can feel this easily by holding the back of your hand right next to the breech when you fire it so the hairs on the back of your hand move. I think this is too tight, and should be adjusted a tad looser, but I have a bird job tonight and don’t have time to expeiment yet.
And yes, I agree that with the TH adjusted tight like this, you’re going to get everything this gun has to give. I guess I should have mentioned mine is a 12″ barrel in .177. The “power wheel” is exactly what I thought it was from the beginning, it is just a preload adjustment for the hammer spring. The biggest asset I’ve found (or excuse) for having it is that you can adjust it down to keep the hammer from slamming so hard and throwing your aim off. This gun has no kick to speak of, but that hammer at higher settings definitely makes the gun jump a little. Just try a high setting with a very loose grip, then drop it down and you’ll notice the difference. You’ll notice it even more if you take off the tank and dry fire just the action. I keep mine on 3-4, and I’m short-filling the gun to only 2500 psi. So far I’m punching 1 holes @ 20 yards which is all I need for birds in a store. Shortly I’ll be testing lots of different pellets to see what works out to 55 yards, but that varies from gun to gun, so my results won’t really help anyone else.
Many thanks to everyone who gave me suggestions on the “dud” problem. It really started me thinking about how this gun works and why. Oh, and by the way, I think I’ve come up with a successful way to use those vacant 6″ at the end of the shroud to adequately quiet the gun for backyard shooting. More on that later, and would someone please tell me how to post pictures on this forum, I have a great one I think you’d enjoy.
Thanks,
Scrench
I haven’t checked the accuracy yet but, as long as the velocity is the same as before I don’t think it should be affected. I let you know tommorow.
It may be my imagination but, when I set my top hat so that the breech was tight when cocked, it seemed that my accuracy was erratic. I put it back at .87 and left it there….1-1.5″ groups at 60 yds with about 4 strays out of 30 shots
Just out of curiosity I put my tophat all the way out so that when the gun is cocked and you pull the breech back you can just pull it to the side. Therefore there is no gap at all between the breech and the tophat.
It is nice and tight against it.
Result:
Not much. FPS may have actually dropped by about 10 fps. Maybe because of the less distance for the hammer to travel. The one big difference is I can’t dial it down as much. With the PW on zero and tophat set at .07 I would only get about 780 fps. With it out to .16 about 870 with PW on zero.
Talon SS w/24″ barrel, standard everything.
JSB 15.9 gr — 920 fps Tophat set at .16, PW on 1
Just about the same as I got with the tophat set at .07 and PW at 4
I also don’t get the impression it is wasting air because I can dial it down to 870 fps with PW on 0
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Right. Thank you. I was also wondering about polishing and cleaning the machine surfaces of the valve or tank’s Top Hat for best operation. This stuff can’t be rocket sience. I worked in a machine shop onboard the USS Tripoli LPH10 from 92-94. Man the guy I worked for was a journeyman machinist and he could do so much.
Im thinking about getting me a small lathe to tinker with after a while.
;p)
I think it is very useful in order so we can maintain our Talon/Condors for many years to come.