Tuning???
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If I win the lotto I’ll buy us both one :8: I looked at the steiner scopes while I attended the SHOT show. Man they are nice!
This of would be nice
http://www.steiner-optics.com/riflescopes/t-series/t5xi-3-15×50
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eelect yes it will. I made a 263 yard shot yesterday on a target. I had over 24 feet of drop. What kind of scope do you think will handle that much drop?
Keyser do you really believe that going from a $750 scope to a 1500-2k scope will help you make those 100-150 yard shots better. Want to share something really stupid. This morning I spotted a couple starlings 99 yards off on a dead tree. So I got 25 out and started pounding away at the poor thing and nothing happened. It was like I was firing blanks. So after 2 clips of didley squat I pulled out trusty 22. One shot and that was the end of it. Now when everything was said and done I was one Mildot high with 25 and wasn’t thinking. I took another shot at leaf on tree and nailed it again so there is nothing like knowing your aim points. Both guns have same scopes. Just saying
I want to say I had POI shifting on my 25 Vulcan too. id go 3 clicks left then right. I then decided to remove my Burris rings and put some Low mega cheap big tough UTG rings on there. These things were massive compared to the burris rings. After a week I concluded that my problem was solved. I since then went and replaced those with 20MOA single piece mount. I gained 60 clicks and scope is closer to optical zero.

Then I put this on

Lots of good information im moving along in this process but how do you set the regulator. Idk how to do this I want to learn how to do all this type of work myself. Do you guys just start taking stuff apart and figure it out I just don’t want to break something or anything.
:hoot:
Dear Ballpark…
A POI shift can be many things besides the gun: shooting position, scope loose, air pressure drops off regulator, wind, temperature shifts, and on and on. When measuring in fractions of an inch over 50 yards, any little thing or change can cause some degree of pellet movement from original point of impact. That’s normal, unless you are shooting from a mechanical bench rest where the gun is locked down to prevent any movement.
The first thing you should consider is buying a Chrony…so you can set your pcp at the right feet per second for best accuracy. Most shooters here run anywhere from 880 to 980 fps. I personally prefer 880 fps because I seldom shoot further than 30 to 50 meters/yards and I don’t need the extra power. Plus my shot count goes up substantially per fill.
The second effort would be always staying within the air pressure range when you shoot. For example, if you fill to 250 BAR…say 3600 psi, then stop shooting when your gauge gets down to 130 BAR, or about 1800 psi. The Vulcan regulator is set to provide 130 BAR of air pressure for each shot, and that’s as good a setting as you need. In that manner your fps will remain steady and ensure the best accuracy. Now…these figures are just examples. You may fill to 200 BAR, or 2900 to 3000 psi. Still, you need to stop shooting at about 1500 to 1800 psi because as the pressure drops below the regulator setting, the poi will begin to drop. Here’s a site to calculate BAR to PSI: http://www.convertunits.com/from/bar/to/psi.
Thirdly, pellet selection will impact accuracy in a major way. I recommend using JSB pellets of a specific weight, and keep shooting those pellets and that weight. Any pellet change will also change your poi…perhaps not by much, but it will change and you will need to adjust to them.
Fourthly, a scope can cost $99 to $1900, and both do the same thing for an average shooter. If it’s sighted in properly, tightened down well, you are ready to go. As for power of the scope, I prefer 2 X 8, 3 X 12, 4 X 16, or thereabouts. Anything more powerful is likely to cost you in brightness, clarity, and will “wiggle” more at higher magnification.
Finally, the Vulcan will out shoot you from the factory. That is to say you don’t need to do squat to the gun at this time. Just shoot it, observe what your fps settings are, with a chrony, and note when the velocity starts to drop when coming off the reg, that’s when you stop shooting and refill.
This is where I would start if I were in your shoes. You can get fancy later on as you pick up more information from the forum. Go slow, see what is working for other people, and see if it works for you. But take your time. It takes about a year to get really comfortable with this hobby. Ask questions on the forum. You will get a ration of shit from time to time, but that’s the TAG. We are mostly older hobbyists and don’t spare anyone from our pranks and name calling. This is the one place where we can relax and say whatever we please. So don’t take anything on here seriously, except the advice. No one here will deliberately give you incorrect or bad advice. If someone does…the forum will see it and cry “Bullshit!”, it’s been done many times.
Relax and enjoy yourself. There’s a wealth of knowledge and bullshit on here. As WOK said (he’s kind of like god on here…we’ve never seen him but we believe he exists!) visiting this forum is like walking into a biker bar. You live or die by what you say on the TAG. Bullshit is not tolerated, only experience, and advice based on experience, is acceptable.
Kind regards…
Uncle Hoot:
PS: “Leadpecker”…you syphilis infected moron! Your bottom line says “Fuck y’ all”…that’s racist and bigoted. As a Southern gentleman I must inform you the correct phrase would be “Fuck all y’ all!” In this manner, you include all people regardless of race, creed, color, national affiliation, or political misguidance.
Ok to make a gun more accurate it has to fire a consistent speed. Providing the barrel is good and your glass is top shelf then extreme spread and standard deviation is the next mountain to climb. I had a friend ask me “how do you hit starlings at 153 yards” to which my reply was bench time and 2K dollar glass. Never underestimate the importance of a really good optic. I’m not talking about bullshit MTC or some other 300 dollar scope. There is no free lunch, kick ass glass will improve your performance. So now that we have covered you may need to open the wallet for some German or Japanese optic let’s talk about the gun and ammo. Look for the best pellet. Find the speed that gives you the best accuracy. Tune the regulator and HST with obsessive compulsive tendencies until you have less than 6 FPS ES for the entire shot string. The next thing you need to do is record your pellet speed at different temperatures and altitude. You need at least 5 inputs at different temperatures and 3 different altitudes. Purchase a well reviews ballistic calculator/ software like Exbal by Perry Systems (sold by Nightforce). Buy a top quality Kestrel weather kit. Keep a log of all your shooting with chronograph numbers, temperature readings and altitude. Along with this log you’ll need to calculate your ballistic coefficient, not use the generic one from chairgun. You’ll need to use the GA profile for your BC calculator. You will need to find your BC at the in the kind of weather most often shot by you. Oh I almost forgot, you’ll need to find the best diablo head size for your barrel. This will also make a difference.
PS left to right POI changes are almost always the fault of the scope unless you are experiencing parallax error.
I really apreciate your help guys I’m really new to the forum. But I like it here seems to be Lots of knowledgeable members. Elect you make it seem that 6000 rounds is pushing it or something. Am I taking that the wrong way. But as far as groups go I can’t get a consistant group at 50 yards that will be 3/8 inch but I get half inch groups quite often. One thing that is driving me nuts though is my POI changes a lot I find my self dialing my scope left or right day to day. I’ll shoot some 50 yard groups maybe this evening after work and post them up
Or slap my ass and call me Sally……..
Birdie. If his questions were not answered why didn’t you cover our butt and answer them. But a slap on the wrist us good too sometimes. Ya this is TAG
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Bird, I PM’d Frank……..All is good now.
Guys , Frank asked a very good question . How much will it cost to have his Vulcan worked on to make it the best for shooting for him . That
means having the ping noise and barrel noise reduced . No one gave him an anwser , instead you all went on your own tangents which really
was unexceptionable as an anwser . This is a forum and when someone asks a direct question it should be answered in the same tone that it
was given . After all when you ask a question that is important to you , you want your question to be answered in the right manner . That is
what TAG is really about .
FROM : THE BIRDMAN
Franky can you post some groups. That’s a lot of rounds. Does it do 3/8 group at 50 yards?
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Man I have not dropped anything over 100 yards in a long time. Don’t know my holdovers that good after that. If I would be stationary I could figure it out. Say pigeon on silo at 130-150 yards. Take a few pug shots then wait till the settle in.
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