Valve adjustments/Hi-Flo
Some interesting results there. A few people have tried it in the past and it does normally show good gains in power but it is a balancing act. The less of a return spring you have the more the varying air pressure will effect the valve opening. You have to balance everything out to stay consistent.
All Replies
Viewing 13 replies - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
Cutting a spring will really screw with the rate.
In an automobile cheap people cut springs and that’s why the car bounces all over the place all the time. Best way to make a spring smaller is to heat it and reduce the length that way or buy a different spring.
Removing a coil will increase a spring’s rate by 10% typically.
To reduce the rate you would need to ADD coils if everything else is the same.
Has anyone considered or tried cutting a coil or part of a coil off the spring to reduce the pressure. If so what would be a good amount to remove? I have my valve apart upgrading to a condor and would be interested in any suggestions.
I wish someone would post a video of air valve polishing and adjustment , i am new to air gunning, just got a Talon SS, plan to use it squirrel hunting this fall.
This is pretty much how the valve kits for the Airarcher conversions work, except instead of backing out the valve spring retainers they are bored out so the spring goes in deeper and the v springs are longer.
Ive been testing some new valve springs that show a lot of promise.
very high speeds and so far they are returning that valve closed as the tank runs down. A little more testing and I’ll be doing a post and maybe a video.
Tag,
On Randyhub’s tanks I set the valve spring at 5 pounds force to crack
he gets good numbers and flat shot curve.
Thanks Walter just missed that one somewhere I guess 🙁 PB I forgot to mention interesting post let us know where you end up with your testing sounds like maybe just a touch of pressure on spring! I had an SS I polished the valve and made the air passage a bit bigger worked fine, it was a mod post here on tag I followed. I have never had my valve out of my Condor it has been working good so I haven’t ventured into the air bottle yet!
men, I don’t shoot it below 1,000psi
Interesting post I must have missed any talk about the valve spring before or I am getting old I might of just forgot 😯 😯 nahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!! probably when Pab invited me over for a drink or two and I forgot he lives farrrrrrrr awayyyyyyy!!
We need more tinkering with this and Voltar, I have the same question as 80 how low can you go before you have to take a dump I mean when your tank dumps!! 😆
of course gotta be careful of tank dump at reduced pressures 🙂
Also had to add a stroke limiter behind the tophat due to it being a one piece stem.
Walt,
Your valve closes from tank pressure alone? 😯 ❓ What psi does it dump at? Thanks.
back when this was chatted up I removed the valve spring in my valve and have been shooting it that way ever since.
of course gotta be careful of tank dump at reduced pressures 🙂
Also had to add a stroke limiter behind the tophat due to it being a one piece stem.
I didn’t count turns , but the objective is to only have the nut turned in enough to put spring tension on the seat to allow it to be closed by itself without air in the bottle, i believe this is more for the max fps tune for a talon valve, but it has worked fine for the condor,
In the quick reference i think , there is a guide that shows how to set up the valve for power. When i first bought the condor i had the tank dump at about 1000 shots, and due to reading the reference , i knew that the valve spring nut had backed off and let the tank dump.
so any way when i pulled the valve out i polished and worked it over, so when putting it back together you put thread tape on the threads so the nut will not move around again, and just turn the nut in tight enough to close the valve by the force of the valve spring only.
have been shooting it like this ever since. around 10,000 round s later.
Viewing 13 replies - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
My .308 Condor (built by Cygnus) has no return spring and the valve closes just fine and in rapid order after the shot! 🙂
Walter has shown that you don’t need a spring to close the valve..
That indicates that if you want a spring in there in case you shoot the bottle down too far, or you want the spring as a tuning tool; you don’t need to find a special spring. If no spring will do the job, any spring will do the job (maybe not as good as no spring…).
Feel free to cut coils or stretch or twist your own, springs are easy to get.