Velocity variations
When I first got my .22 Talon SS, it shot Superdomes at around 830 fps, Kodiaks around 740 fps, and Predators at around 800 fps after I lubricated it and adjusted the top hat. This seemed a little slow compared to some numbers I had seen, but it was shooting very accurately, so I didn’t mind. A couple of months ago, I put on a new scope, and in the process of dialing it in, I chronied it again. This time, all of the speeds dropped around 25 fps. This seemed odd to me, but the gun was still shooting to the same POI and was grouping well, so I didn’t much care. Well, just the other day, I took it out and chronied it, and the velocity had dropped about another 20 fps. Not only that, but every 20 to 40 shots I would get a low powered shot, ranging from 500 fps to 150 fps! So, I tried a different lubricant, to see if that had something to do with it. Didn’t help at all. I tried adjusting the top hat, in case it had turned in the process of being shot. But it turned out that when I found the optimal setting, it was the one I started with. So today I tore the whole thing down, cleaned off all the parts with rubbing alcohol, cleaned the old lubricant out of the body, polished the barrel where the breech sits, re-lubed everything with dry silicone lubricant, and put it back together. Now, Superdomes are shooting at 790 fps, and the Predators are shooting at 765 fps, which is STILL 35 fps slower than what I started with, and 10 fps slower than what I had a couple of months ago. Adjusting the preload doesn’t do anything, either. So, my question to you, the Airforce Braintrust, is this – What can I do to get my velocity back? I don’t need blazing speed – I would just get a Condor if I wanted that. But I do want consistency, and I would like it up around the velocity I started at. Does anyone have any idea what is going on, or anything they think I can do to remedy my velocity woes?
Thanks in advance,
Chris
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I keep reading about these valaves. Are they better than factory? more consistent? Is there more reason to change than just power?
I removed my valve last night for the first time, thinking it was gonna be a bitch. I was pleasntly surprised at how easily it came off. Per an earlier post by WOK, if you have a vice, wrap the bottle in a magizine, clamp bottle in vice, insert a bolt into either the burst disc hole or, if the collar has a empty second hole opposite the burst disc (like mine did) than use that. An easy tap with a hammer on the bolt got my valve off with very little effort.
I was surprised to find how dirty and “sticky” the opperation of my valve was. It wouldn’t surprise me one bit if the valve is your culprit. On another note if you have the extra $$, get a USA Blodnob valve from Selph.
Yeah, the valve is my next step. Everything I read indicates that taking the valve out of the bottle is a bitch though, so I am trying everything else first.
Thanks,
Chris
Have you had the valve out and apart to check for any cack in there? Anything sitting around the delrin seat in the valve retainer could cause variable fps.
Hmmmghhh,
the only other thing I can think is if the collar that the tank screws into could be canted, thus the valve is not perpendicular to the breech.
With the tank off, check the threaded deal a ma bob and make sure it is seated to the frame properly.
Other wise ya might need some more expert help other than the SAW man
Good Luck-
SAW
Yup, cleaned the frame. Cleaned EVERYTHING with denatured alcohol. Re-lubed it all with dry silicone, except the breech o-rings, which I lubed with teflon. I did notice just about an hour ago that I can feel a SMALL puff of air come out around the tophat when I shoot it, enough to blow out a lighter flame. I checked to make sure the breech clicks into place, and that I turned the knob all the way to the side. But they are new o-rings, size 7/16 x 5/16 x 1/16, so I don’t get why this would be happening. They aren’t the 90 durometer, but it still shouldn’t make that much of a difference, should it?
Thanks,
Chris
Have ya ever cleaned the frame? and if so what did you use ?
Hammer chatter could be the prob. as well.
SAW
I checked both of those. My tank only has 2600 psi in it, and I have been checking the breech knobs. I also put in new breech o-rings today, which didn’t help, either. I am getting a bit frustrated. Gonna try ordering a spring tomorrow.
Thanks,
Chris
It is quite possible you are overfilling, or not locking the breech to the side.
If ya over fill, the hammer cannot open the valve correctly.
Been there done that 😳
SAW
If the spring were just naturally weaker, though, wouldn’t adding more preload by cranking up the velocity adjuster increase the velocity? I have tried this, and it didn’t work, either…
Thanks,
Chris
The low shots in the 400-500 range could be due to you lubricating the where the barrel thickens, and then the hammer can stick or catch (i don’t know what you US call it .. 8) ) and become inconsistent. As i understand that problem stopped after taking the gun apart and cleaning it, and now it sounds like you need a new spring for the hammer to me too. And maybe a heavier hammer, but that’s optional.
hammer
Spring for my hammer, or for the valve?
Thanks,
Chris
Get a new spring, its worth a try. Put some tissue paper over the breech and see if the seals leak.
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A new mainspring and hammer are in the mail from Airforce. If these don’t do the trick, the valve comes off.
Thanks,
Chris